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-   -   The Ultimate DIY Cool Suit Thread (https://dorkiphus.net/porsche/showthread.php?t=26029)

Fritz 08-07-2011 11:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fairfax 944 (Post 365960)
Uh, I should have read your thread yesterday. Didn't see it, but yours looks a bit more sturdy then mine. It took a lot more time than it should have, didnt it?

I always expect things to take longer then expected, but this was more so. It was probably trying to determine the best way to get through the sides. I first looked at bulkhead fittings for fish tanks and agricultural use, but they are too big and expensive. Then when I got the pump at West Marine I looked through their thru-hull fittings and they wouldn't work. Then I thought of a PVC solution, but couldn't find the right pieces.
But then Andy reminded me what he had done with his, and simple is best. Plus I looked at Tony's cooler at Tech and realized it's not rocket science. Keep most of the water from falling onto bad things, and you're okay. :)

Have you figured out the mount yet?

Trak Ratt 08-08-2011 07:20 AM

The one I bought used came with a simple slab of metal with some inexpensive straps.

Cool Shirt offers this:

http://www.hrpworld.com/client_image...95_hdr_2_l.jpg


Saw a nice Pro system for $6.9K! (shirt sould separate) http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...asp?RecID=6957

Elfer 08-08-2011 07:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fritz (Post 365959)
TOTALLY INFERIOR TO THIS MASTERPIECE!!

:D:D

Just kidding. Looks good. There is no right or wrong way, unless of course it doesn't work and sets your car on fire. ;)

Just modify to add a hose running to the engine - quick eject on the shirt, and the fires out.. ;)

HoodPin 08-08-2011 07:53 AM

Nicely done Fritz!

FWIW, I would recommend drilling all the holes in the cooler as high as possible, to minimize issues with potential water leakage.

HoodPin 08-08-2011 07:54 AM

The other thing you can do to help keep the water cool is to line the inside of the cooler with Danica Patrick pictures......

Fairfax 944 08-08-2011 08:51 AM

After looking at the cooler last night, I see that the silicon is not adhering too well to the cooler. It's like there is an oil film on the surfaces of the cooler. I'm going to remove the silicon, sand the relevant areas of the cooler to get better adhesion, and re-silicon.

HoodPin 08-08-2011 09:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fairfax 944 (Post 365997)
After looking at the cooler last night, I see that the silicon is not adhering too well to the cooler. It's like there is an oil film on the surfaces of the cooler. I'm going to remove the silicon, sand the relevant areas of the cooler to get better adhesion, and re-silicon.

You primarily want a solid seal on the inside of the cooler, where the water is. I would recommend using silicon in the gap between the inner & outer walls of the cooler, and then fab up some gasket material (cork, rubber, etc) to put between the flange and inner cooler surface.

smdubovsky 08-08-2011 09:36 AM

Instead of just sanding (which just puts the oil down in scratches) consider cleaning w/ something that even attacks the base plastic a little. Toluene, xylene, etc. Then maybe sand a little.

Vicegrip 08-08-2011 09:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AJ986S (Post 366001)
You primarily want a solid seal on the inside of the cooler, where the water is. I would recommend using silicon in the gap between the inner & outer walls of the cooler, and then fab up some gasket material (cork, rubber, etc) to put between the flange and inner cooler surface.

There are groups of plastics that silicone does not stick to well. Window grades even less so. Better to have a seal that is based on compression than a sealent.

Dr K 08-08-2011 11:40 AM

Please add a pair for me - also for draining shirt. Thanks! Trade them for the 1-1/2" aluminum angle iron you need (and I've got)? Free delivery, too.


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