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One caution:
You mentioned that the wrench said that they used the wrong selant. :?: That may mean you might want to do both sides and possibly the engine case. If it's the metal to metal sealer, and if a full rebuild was done then it could be everywhere. This leak may also be no big deal. Every inspector wants to find something to justify their fee! :x If the sealant was used everywhere than this leak may justbe the tip of the iceberg! :( (Might be a good negotiating tool!) :twisted: |
Outstanding point, Bill.
This is well worth driving right down the sellers neck. Ask the PPI shop the question - how much the reseal both sides AND the case halves. Should be a nice juicy number. You are still willing to consider a reduced price because you plan on doing it DIY as a project. Garnish to taste. |
He's another thought. When rocker shafts leak the oil drips down along the cam tower joint to the valve covers. If it is a rocker shaft leaking the fix is easy.
Drop engine, install RSR rocker shaft seals, install engine, no more leak. Cost of parts 12.00 . . . who knows maybe you could be 1488.00 dollars ahead. |
Update - Car is home
Hey guys,
Thanks for all of the advice. I got confirmation from the shop that the leak is from the cam housing to the heads. This makes sense since it was the top end only that was done about 4 years (4k miles) ago. The leak is very small and the motor has no other leaks to speak of. I decided to buy the car and it is now home in Centreville. It is a white on black 88 coupe. California car until 2000. Mileage is 102,600. Car is VERY clean inside and out. I am very pleased. The plan now is to determine my strategy for the engine drop and get everything together that I will need. I want to do all of the usual WYIT items and as much cleaning and powder coating as I can. Thanks again for all of the advice. ~mat |
Congrats. This is definitely a while-you're-in-there snowball waiting to happen. If it's a tiny leak, I'd say let it go for a while. Plenty of us have dropped an engine to fix a few leaks which, at first glance, required a few cheap gaskets, but in the end cost $1500 worth of other stuff. And that's the DIY price. Just ask Steve V what fixing a few leaks ended up costing him. But no matter - car is yours now and so you have to deal with it. I probably have the gaskets you need and you can have them for free, since I have a lot of extra spare stuff laying around after my rebuild. I assume the G50 update was done the last time the engine was out, but if not, well.....
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Re: Update - Car is home
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1. Leave car in driveway. 2. Leave stocked cooler in driveway. 3. Leave town for a day or so. 4. Come back home, and find engine sitting on back porch. 5. Wait -- that's not my engine! It's only a 3.0L! Who the hell stole my engine??? :evil: |
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~m |
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Mat, Thanks for the help on the bearings today! Give me a call or drop a line when you need a hand since I'm not far from Centerville. The experience is really worth it. Not only do you get a great education on how it all works, you save a ton of money. The way I figure it, even including parts I have to replace twice - I still come out ahead :) A recommendation I can make from my process: make sure you order all of the parts the first time. There is nothing more annoying than getting all the parts and realize you missed a crush washer or some damn o-ring. Then you have to wait another 5 days for the parts to show up. I would estimate that 7% of the cost of my work is shipping ! :( Steve |
No problem Steve. I am just glad that your bearings weren't cooked after driving on them that way for so long. Let me know when you are going to drop your motor again to fix those leaks and I'll be sure to lend a hand.
I am working on a list now of all the parts I will need so that everything is there when I need it. Like you said, nothing worse than getting into something and then getting stuck waiting. Mat |
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