^^^ Yep. Keep the ugly side hidden. Wide flange top rivets for maximum force dispersal. If this were me I'd probably make something out of a little bit stronger steel as there is a good bit of pull on this piece. I think using a large paper clamp made out of spring steel as a source and bent over 180 degrees would not bend much under the tensile pull of the hasp on the lid. Cut with a Dremel cut off wheel to width and length as needed. May need to punch hole for the rivet unless you have a good set of drill bits.

The mirror clip is actually pretty thick. At least the thickness of a couple layers of large-size binding clip. I'm most concerned about the shear load either overpowering the JB Weld, or if rivets are used getting a block shear failure in the plastic box. Trying JB Weld initially will not hurt anything if the shear strength of the bond is not enough.

I'm curious about the recommendation for wide-flange rivets. The load will be predominantly in shear, so the flange width should not matter much. But it is still worthwhile on the box interior to make sure the rivet cannot pull out easily (adding a washer, using a rivet with a decent-size flange, etc.). But on the exterior, against the mirror clip, I do not think it provides any real benefit unless someone were to use a very small diameter rivet. I'm always open for a physics lesson though :cool:

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If you're not going for OEM-style looks, I'd through-bolt the mirror clip and call it a day.

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