James:

If you are set on going the 2.7 route than how about Jim R's suggestion and pick up some JE's, a set of webbers, cams and going for 200+ horsepower?

I have also "helped" a guy redo a 2.7 where he didn't split the case (updates were already done + he simply inspected and re-ringed) and he converted intake side to webbers (associated fuel pump, FPR, etc...) with new cams (NOT ideal for the CIS piston but sure sounded great popping and spitting...). Of course...that depends on whether you think you can get a good set of webbers (or PMOs if you are Midas) in the $1,200-1,500 range.

BTW: I love threads like this where we can suggest ways to spend someone elses $ :lol:

Jase

p.s. I second NOT recommending motormeister.

Since it's a '76, might as well go ahead and put in SSIs, strip out any pollution stuff, pop for the high compression P&Cs and webcams. And if you're going with Webbers or PMOs, why not strip the car down and put in a roll cage. Marc A. can help roll your fenders and stick in some beefier wheels and rubber.

As you can see already, James, stopping here can be expensive. However, you'll get lots of help dropping that engine. :lol:

- Bill W.

James - welcome to the board. You've definately come to the right place for help with spending your hard earned $$$$$ :lol:

Good luck with the project - remember, NoVa is less then 2 hours from Richmond.

BTW, hearing the name Krynock brings back an interesting PPI I had done one a car 2+ years ago when I was first in the market.

Welcome James! As you can see from the previous responses, you've come to the right place. Good luck with your rebuild.

My thoughts . . for what they are worth (I just opened the door here guys so come on in):

1. Mag case should be align bored and shuttle pined if you bump up the HP. The 2.7 displacement strained the 7r cases to the max.

2. Heat kills and = pulled head studs. HP = heat. 2.7s didn't break studs for the most part, they just pulled out of the case. Time Certs are a mandatory for the 2.7.

3. When you talk about hot roding a 2.7 and machine work I'll be willing to bet your wallet's hole will be 5-7k MINIMUM and you will still have a 2.7. Call Steve Timmons in Delaware and see what he has in the way of a 3.2. He rebuilds anything 911 and is top notch. Here is Steve's home page: http://instant-g.com/Products/36Conversion/index.html

I would not suggust a 3.6 due to cost of conversion and you have not indicated a need for abserd power like some of our board members.

The 3.2 is probably the best engine for drivability, reliability, and cost to maintain of any engine that you could put in the '76.

4. What is your intended purpose or goal for the car. If you just want to drive it on the road, after throwing a couple cans of techron or Jetron in to see if something gets freed up, I would probably just repair the 2 cylinders that have failed and drive the car. Save your money for a more meaningful replacement for the 2.7 when the final failure comes.

Ok guys the flood gates are wide open now.