Martin - The plan is to get the timing fixed, so will be replacing chains, ramps, tensioners, to make that right. I would like to avoid having work done if possible. I am thinking about changing the crankshaft bearing caps, so we'll see. This car will never see the track so I am not looking to necessarily build the engine stronger the stock. Just want to refresh things. The main goal is for me to learn this process for when I need to do it on the Cayman track car.

I think we'll have to have you over for the assembly. Thanks for the offer!

Sounds like a good plan. I have plenty of assembly lube (mix with break-in oil). Get some Drei-Bond for sealing the case (instead of the recommended 5900 which is a mess to deal with and tends to leave worms inside the block). Also some copper gasket spray. I'll review my notes to see if there is anything else you'd need besides tools and techniques.

I heard that about 5900. Will do. Thanks!

Wow! Is this your car or Ion's?

Kudos to your initiative and fearlessness -- great to see! And double-kudos for being willing to do all this crap with a one-car garage and on jack stands.


Great to see the engine going for so long, though. Just to help set the stage, had the motor ever been opened before? And had you done anything to the IMS prior to this?

What other while-you're-in-there things are you doing -- rod bearings? Piston rings? Valves? (this is why I hate tearing engines apart...I feel obligated to replace literally everything)

Great job, Mihnea and Ion! Check to see if there's any sign of the cam sprocket slipping from the bolts. I don't think the factory manual calls for Red Loctite on the cam sprockets bolts but we always use it as an extra measure to prevent jumping time.

Mihnea,
Did you drop the engine and trans axle using the Sears motorcycle lift and did it clear the under side of the car when lowered? I'm preparing myself for a future clutch job and IMS bearing seal removal. Where did you source the cam lock tools and engine stand?

Thanks,

Rob

I was very happy with the longevity of the engine as well, especially that even now it doesn't look like it is in very bad shape.

The car is mine. I acquired it in January of 2011 at 90,000 miles. As far as I can tell it had at least 4 owners before me. I drove it daily since then until very recently and added another almost 100,000 miles. The engine has never been opened and there was very little if any maintenance done in the decade before I purchased it. In 2011 when I got it, I did a bunch of clean up work, like replacing the AOS, the busted vacuum tubing, spark plugs, filters, etc. etc. Nothing internal to the engine was ever done. The IMS (double row in my case) is original and in great shape right now still.

With this build, I am trying to keep costs to a minimum (partly due to the very limited value of the vehicle overall). I have the same "while in there" urge, but have to restrain myself. This is mostly a learning exercise for me and a chance to set the motor right for hopefully at least another 100,000 miles. I recently acquired a 987 Boxster S as a DD, so I am not sure whether I will keep this car or sell it. The point was that I couldn't sell it knowing that the timing wasn't right.

Tom, thanks for the tip! Will do.

Yep, I used the Sears yellow ATV lift. This is the third engine drop (twice on this car and once on my Cayman track car) I've done with it and it always worked well. The procedure is to remove the transmission first using the ATV lift and then go back to get the engine. On the Boxster I use a support bar across the top of the engine bay to support the engine (you can see it in my last pic). On the Cayman I just support the engine from below with another jack, but it's a little more tricky to get the ATV jack under it as you have to back out the support jack at the same time. I propped it up on jack stands during the transition.

I always remove the rear bumper because that helps with clearance as you can go straight back instead of down and back. The trick to get the engine out is to turn it 90 degrees once you drop it down in place. With the engine perpendicular to the car, you can easily slide it out between the subframe members. Those can be removed, but I'm sick of doing my own alignments, so I like to leave them in there. If for some reason the engine doesn't clear, just jack up the chassis from the rear, temporarily. It will be a slight pain to slide the jack back, perpendicularly to the car, as the front wheels don't turn, but it can be done, especially if your floor is smooth.

Here is a link to some photos Vranko took when I removed the engine out of my Cayman last year: http://vranko.smugmug.com/Cars/Cayma...5103&k=s6ngHZ5

Good to know, thanks. That's terrific you got such great life out of the 986. Very encouraging!



Question: do you actually own any non-Porsches?