Don't beat up the builder! Just accept it :)

I keed I keed

The most you should expect is some sort of flash patch or epoxy treatment with a decent paint job. I would specify the patch material you think fits your purpose. Epoxy is strong stuff. Then pick a concrete stain or paint.

Demanding an entire slab be replaced for what may amount to 1 or 2 square feet of surface damage won't be met with a serious response and is unreasonable.

It sounds like a doofus went a little nuts with the nail gun but, often times the garage walls are braced by nailing a stud to the slab before the roof goes on. This is by necessity so there will always be a few dings in the floor but they are usually flash patched as part of the pre-delivery inspection by the builder.

The builder should be responsive to a reasonable fix.

I would not go to closing with an issue like this outstanding. Aside from the obvious, getting the garage floor fixed after you've moved in will be a total pain in the ass because either you can't put anything in your garage till it's fixed or you have to move it all out again. And it opens you up to arguments from the sub/builder that you damaged something moving in beyond what was agreed to prior to closing.

Old thread resurrection day.

I have a similar issue with some small issues with a new garage floor. The weather wasnt friendly and some water pouring off the roof left a few rough spots in a fresh pour.

Epoxy concrete patch seems like the right material, anyone have experience with this stuff?

http://www.legacyindustrial.net/prod...ete-patch.html

Its time for me to get off the pot and find a solution to patch my floor. Similar to the above product, a very similar option is available here [link removed]
From their website, this is basically what I'm trying to accomplish.


Whats the difference between the two? Any other options?

There are dozens and dozens of commercial-grade epoxy patching mixes out there. For the most part they isn't much variance between the products. Using epoxy patching mixes to repair spalled concrete was popular in the late 1980s, but the concrete repair industry quickly found out the patches were prone to failure, primarily along the bond line. That is mainly due to the substantial differences in material properties of the epoxy patching materials versus the concrete. The International Concrete Repair Institute was born in the late '80s/ early '90s, and they helped spread the word that the best material to use to patch concrete is, well, concrete. And the more similar the properties of the patching mix are to the original concrete mix, the better the chance of long-term success. Some measures help speed up the process a bit, like the addition of polymers and acrylic admixtures to the mix. The downside to this is you cannot/ should not featheredge concrete patching material; it usually needs to be applied at a minimum thickness of 3/4 inch. So that means saw cutting the patch perimeter and likely chipping out some of the concrete to achieve the minimum required depth.

*IF* your particular application includes a coating system overtop the slab, then an epoxy material might hold up ok. But even then, if the patches are featheredged there is the potential for small pieces to break off over time, especially if you roll/ drag concentrated loads overtop. For most commercial garage coating applications, addressing divots, etc. with epoxy patching material works out fine. But if you have bigger areas though it may not be the best way to go.

^This is one of the reasons Dorkiphus is so great! (Entertainment is one of the other reasons...). Whatever you want to learn about in more depth, whether cars, guns, garages, insulation, roofing, woodworking, electronics, audio...just about any topic, someone on this board is going to know a whole lot about it and be willing to share. Interestingly, it's often the same few people covering many topics but there is a broad range of experts, too.

Thanks, good info. I have to grind a section anyway so while I have the machine I might address some of the bigger rough spots. I plan to use the patching to level out a seam and fill a few divots. Fingers crossed.

We patched holes in the floor at work with DUPONT floor epoxy holds up really well. Fork lifts , pallet jacks ride over them all the time for years now no problems... You are probly better fixing them yourself because you know the builder doesn't care about long term fix.
Hell they showed up to fix my sticking interior doors with 4 tubes of caulk ( WTF)
Good luck with the fix , Sorry you have to go thru this

I hate to generalize and saw all contractors... :)

Thanks. Not the end of the world, just another problem to address.

x10 zillion

We've talked about remediation but I am leaning to doing the work and getting a credit from them. I'm at the point where I would rather spend my free time doing the work then having to deal with them and then doing at least part of it again anyway.