need a bench buffer, like a bench grinder

[DinFtown]

Hey all,

I'm looking to borrow a bench buffer if anyone has one, I have my motor apart to fix a couple motor leeks and I want to put it back together looking better then new. I plan on polishing all the intake runners on my CIS, and few other small aluminum things. Anyways I have all the compounds and wheels I will need, I was just wondering if anyone had a bench buffer?? Its just like a Bench grinder, but has longer shafts and runs at about 5000 RPM. They run $100 at sears, so its not a big ticket Item, but just seeing if I could borrow someones so I don't have to buy one since this isn't a tool you would use often unless you polish stuff for poeple as a hobbie, or living.

Thanks
Dave

[Vicegrip]

H.F. often has them with arbor fittings for $40 or so. I think there is one in you area.

[Charlie Stylianos]

I use a generic bench grinder for buffing. Works well, but at times I wish I had the longer shafts, but can usually work around that shortcomming.

The CIS runners will be a PITA to polish with all the countors and the rough cast finish. Depending on the type of finish you want, you'll find that w/o a very aggressive sisal wheel and emery type compound to smooth out the rough casting, you wont get a mirror type finish. Anything less aggressive will build up compound in the valleys. I had good luck using a wire wheel to clean and remove the oxidation and they turned out very nice. Anything more than that I would have been pulling my hair out. If you decide to buff/polish, wear a dust mask and eye protection.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads4/Valvecovers11107786450.jpg

These were sandblasted and clear coated:

http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/9393/img08664nz.jpg

[Jazzbass]

Gimme an "O"
Gimme a "C"
Gimme a "D"

:mrgreen:

BTW, this may be one of the worst cases of "pot calling the kettle black" on this BBS yet

[Vicegrip]

You can get flap wheels that will smooth the castings to dead smooth rounding off the corners and even remove the pesky part numbers. Then you can work up in paper grit # and to a final wheel and polish. Will look like liquid chrome when you are done. Seal with a clear coat and you are Blinging Baby! The flap wheels to look for look like a bunch of flat sheets stuck one end on a shaft. They look cylindrical but are made from many flat sheets. You will need to get 2 or 3 of progressively finer grits to do it right. Some flap wheels are made of sheets that have many slits in each sheet so they split into many little fingers of sand paper. This is the type to use if the part is convoluted or complex like an intake runner. Dirty work, you will get covered in gray-black dust the digs in and does not wash off easly. Gloves, mask and eye protection are a must! Need a reason? Shiny surfaces absorb heat more slowly than flat or matt surfaces. Heat expands the intake charge and lowers the true compression. You are not OCD you are adding HP!

You can buff out brake binders and clear powder coat them too.

[DinFtown]

I have the stuff to get all the bumps out, but I need a bench buffer for it. I have 60 to 600 grit buffing compound, I have tried the 80 grit already and it melts the aluminum away on a sewn buffing wheel, and that was with it on my roto zip, I just need the bench buffer to slow the speed down. I have a large assortment of wheels and and cones, to get everywhere. First off I'm not a bling blng guy, but I thing the intake covers, and the intake runners would look good fully polished, I think the would reflect the collor of the fan cover. The bumps will not be a problem, I'm sure everyone has seen a fully polish motorcycle frame, alot of spots on most of the frams have cast bumps all over them also, but the guys that do them get them mirror looking... Well guess I'll wait for a sears 40% off tools sale.. I got my fingers crossed.

[William Miller]

I have a good heavy motor set up, but you will have to buy the correct arbors for what you want. I think you can get them at granger.
I'll be arround this weekend if you want to stop by and take a look.
It was originally a machine set up to grind orthodocs for ski boots and such.
It currently has a big sanding drum and I think the other side had a fan for sucking the dust away.

[DinFtown]

Bill,

I'm just now seeing your post, thanks for the offer, I have been orginizing my new garage all weeked, and I have found that I have a much greater use for the buffing unit then I origonally figured, and I am also about to pull the motors on my two E30's(as soon as I get them to my house) to clean them up. So I guess let it be know I am getting a new bench buffer this week, and in about two months it will be avalible to borrow if anyone needs it....
Thanks,

I do have one thing I need if anyone in the frederick, or charlestown area has, is a trailer, or dolly to borrow for a couple days, I have two cars (My BMW E30's) I need to tow from frederick to harpersferry.

Thanks,
Dave

[DinFtown]

Ok I have been at it for a couple days, on and off, and it works great... I order a few more wheels, so I have one for each use... I was able to use a high end polishing compound on the plactic parts like behind the fan, and over the oil cooler, and it shinned them up like new. This thing works great on everything. When i use the 200 grit compound on the wheel it removes just surface rust of things like cake.... i have been finding random things to use the wheels on..... i think I'm a addict already.... Well it will be up to borrow in about two weeks.... I have dicided to only polish the fan shroud, and the intake valve covers.... everything else is gloss black powder... i hope you all don't start with the "bling bling" thing.. I think its gona look good... much better the the greese mess it started as.

[Cliff Claven]

Shiny surfaces absorb heat more slowly than flat or matt surfaces. Heat expands the intake charge and lowers the true compression.

I wondered about that myself. Doesn't the matte finish have more surface area for sheding heat? I'd need to see some equations on the conductive properties of the two finishes. It would seem that powder coating might lock the heat in.