Help - brake lights stopped working, need to drive it

[winstonbike]

So both brake lights quit on me - I called Tim Berardelli, and before he left on vacation he said "if they both go out its probably the trigger by the brake pedal, just look under the plywood"

For the life of me I can't see it

On Pelican someone said

"Under the lower portion of your brake pedal if memory serves me right there should be two mounting screws on either side of the housing on the top of the housing are two stake on (push on -flat) wire connectors and a threaded connector with a nut. A small lever protrudes out of the side "trigger". See if you accidently pulled one of the wires off while you were checking earlier."

Here are some pics - I just don't see any wires or what he is talking about.

Any help or recommendations for someone in Bethesda I can try take it to today would be great - I need to drive it out for a long weekend today.

Thanks

http://www.connellyclassics.com/othercars/brake/photo1.jpg

http://www.connellyclassics.com/othercars/brake/photo2.jpg

[Vicegrip]

Take the plywood off, get in there with a good light and move the pedal back and forth. You should be able to see where the swich is. The swich should have two conectors with 12 volt on one and 12 volts on both with the pedal down. Check the fuze block and wiggle all the fuzes. They sometimes get some crud on the ends that can cause problems.

[Trak Ratt]

I believe 356s and 911s to early ’89 used pressure switches on the master cylinder. After ’68 there are two switches, one for each “circuit”. I don’t remember the late ‘60s/early ‘70s set up but have replaced the switches on 356s and “boosted” 911s with annoying regularity. When both lights go out, but bulbs, fuses and connections are good, then both switches are bad :wink:

[winstonbike]

I must be crazy - I took the plywood out and I just can't see any leads at all going towards the pedals - are they wires that come up from some other place?


Checked the fuses - looks like all as well, aside from the random two connectors that have nowhere to go (See pic).


Here are some more pics

http://www.connellyclassics.com/othercars/brake/photo6.jpg

http://www.connellyclassics.com/othercars/brake/photo5.jpg

http://www.connellyclassics.com/othercars/brake/photo4.jpg

http://www.connellyclassics.com/othercars/brake/photo3.jpg

http://www.connellyclassics.com/othercars/brake/fuse.jpg

http://www.connellyclassics.com/othercars/brake/fuse2.jpg

[Parenn911]

Sounds like you have either a brake switch or Master Cylinder problem. Replace the brake light switches that thread into the master cylinder. To access them for the later 911's, pop the trunk and look behind the brake reservoir. You may need to remove some heater hoses and the cardboard in the trunk to get in there. I think for the long hoods, the MC is located beneath the car, so you need to jack it up to gain access to the brake light switches for the early cars.

(brake light switches)
http://img159.echo.cx/img159/4756/n315015117bra7dv.jpg

(brake light switches attached to Master Cylinder)
http://img159.echo.cx/img159/5675/911355011123aj.jpg

[winstonbike]

Thanks - its a 1967 912. I think it must be the switch near the pedal, only because they stopped working only after I had been moving the rubber padding and mats around up front. I am just too stupid to see it.

[Vicegrip]

"Duh"....Dave is right, check under the car, the swiches are on the mc. I must have been thinking late mod or domestic. Don't replace anything without testing and finding fault first! That is a good way to add problems in that might mask the real fault. Did you do any work in the front trunk too?

If the lights stopped working after you mucked around you might want follow the power path to the lights. Check the fuse ends you have the al type and they get crusty with time.

[Jase007]

If the electrics check out negative [no juice to the rear bulbs] and the fuses, etc... are ok try this:

This happens on my 356 [with upgraded non-boosted ATE 23mm dual circuit MC] occasionally. Pull the brake switch off the MC [plug so fluid doesn't leak] clean out with carb / brake clean any fluid / gunk that has accumulated there. Re-install and press hard on pedal. B/c my car sits for extended periods [even with frequent fluid changes] it tends to gum / gunk up. May work for you.

A new switch is cheap.

Jase

[Jazzbass]

I think it must be the switch near the pedal, only because they stopped working only after I had been moving the rubber padding and mats around up front. I am just too stupid to see it.
The switches are exactly where Pari said - screwed into the MC, which on your car is underneath the car right behind the pedal cluster. If its an interior thing, maybe you knocked a wire loose or something on the inside. Get a volt-ohm meter, and start at the source - the swicth - and work your way backwards.

[Vicegrip]

The switches are exactly where Pari said

and Dave too. ;)

Don't get cought up in "after the fact because of" testing. Go from most likely to least and easy to check to hard to test.

If you get stuck call me, the Taj is open tonight after 8 and if you can limp it to me it will be easy to find the problem in "short" order. 571 233 3421

A friend of Tim B is a friend of mine.

[winstonbike]

Thanks Everyone - I am going to try go at it again around noon. Incredibly helpful.

[Trak Ratt]

When you check your MC look to see if you have 2 switches or 1. If one you should seriously consider updating to a dual circuit ’68 MC or later at the same time. Simple bolt in for MC but you will have to do some re-pluming of the brake lines. All lines are available. The added safety to any pre '68 car is worthwhile. Remember the MC is the lowest part of the brake system on pre boosted cars.