911 Ball joint nut socket

[Steelspine]

Folks,

I need to borrow one of these bad boys to remove the bent up a-arm and wounded ball joint. I can pick up locally if needed.

Thanks,

Pete

[Trak Ratt]

Most people would rather you not use their good socket to remove old crappy ball joint nuts. It’s a long way but I have one you can use to tighten the new one and a chisel to break the old one loose..

[Steelspine]

The ball joint NUT is fine, not even rusty!

[William Miller]

I have one but a little far from you. Cheaper to go to local discount autoparts store and get a 4wd axle socket for $12. That's what I have!

Zipped it right off with impact wrench. No problem!

[Jazzbass]

The ball joint NUT is fine, not even rusty!
If this is the case, then I'd do what Bill suggests - get the 4x4 socket. If they are 20yrs old and all gummed up with crap, the only alternative is to cut them off.

[Vicegrip]

another method that I have had work 100% regardless of ring nut condidton.

Heat the ball joint ring nut with a common $3 propane torch, soak with some liquid wrench, reheat and then tap it off with a real dull or flattend chisel held in line with rotation. Unless the ring nuts are real rusty or have suffered a ham fisted hammer attack you can remove them without any denting or damage. If they are real bad you might need to re heat and re soak a time or two. This takes about 5 min each side. The Porsche tool will survive a removal or two before the tang edges start to dull and it will start slippping. The 4x4 tool is a true good inexpensive alt but the torch and chisel is even cheaper is usefull elsewhere and will also work on the really bad or chewed up ones.

[Jazzbass]

Heat the ball joint ring nut with a common $3 propane torch, soak with some liquid wrench, reheat and then tap it off with a real dull or flattend chisel held in line with rotation.
Sounds like this would render the ball joint unusable afterward, no? Heat + grease + rubber and all...

[Steelspine]

Thanks guys, I knew I would get a solution I like (4X4 adapter or heat and banging). The ball joint is no good since the a-arm is bent right where it attaches although the nut looks pretty good. The boot is shredded so I ordered a new ball joint to go with my new to me a-arm with new bushings.

[Vicegrip]

Ball joint comes through just fine unlike cutting the ring off. Put heat on the ring only and just to expand it some. You don't need to cook it red hot or anything close. I can touch the ring nut after heating and the joint is not smoking other than the L.R. that is all over the nut. I use the L.R. smoke to let me know the ring is "done" and ready to knock loose.

I know that this is contrary to what others like and does not involve any sexy power tools bangin' or cuttin' away. It just boring low tech works.

Saw a good trick today. Neat way to pull a tye rod end out of the "eye" on the knuckle. Use a puller or pickle fork? Nope. Little bit of heat and a rap, not a beating, just a nice sharp rap on the side of the "Eye" pops the two apart. Nice as can be and worked every time. Clean and no pickle fork cuts on the tye rod ball joint. I had to see it to believe it. This guy been doing it this way for years with no problems and on all kinds of cars in including P cars. Seems you can leave the heat part out and it will still work too.

[William Miller]

Kurt, you are right on the money!
I love these mechanical tricks of the trade. Old school, new school I don't care!

I have and have seen others try the tie rod removal technique without result. Can you clarify exactly what he did? I want to try it next time and save a few rubbers!

Heat it like you mentioned on the ball joint nut?
Is there a sweet spot that you hit?
What size hammer?
Do you put a heavy hammer on the opposite side to oppose the impact?


Thanks for passing along the wisdom!

Maybe we need a thread on Simple, but effective methods instead of cool tools. I love cool tools, but would rather learn the simple stuff!

[Vicegrip]

He removed the cotter pin and nut then cleaned off the crud a little. Put some heat on the eye on the far side from where the eye becomes arm if you know what I mean. After some heat, not red and smoking and not too hot to touch he used a 14 oz or so hammer and gave the eye a single shot right opposite but in line with the arm and the conical pin pops right out neat as can be. Not a two armed baseball bat slug but an authoritative no hesitation hit. I asked him if he ever broke or bent an arm and he said no. According to him this trick works about 80% of the time and if it works on one side it will work on both. It is good to heat even if you plan to use a puller or fork as the heat reduces the force needed to pop them apart.

[Steelspine]

I think I'll try that even though I'm replacing the arm, ball joint and the tie rod end(don't ask).

So when is the appropriate time to break out the plasma cutter? :twisted:

[Steelspine]

BTW Kurt, congrats on the pink monkey joining the blue rug bug.

[scott]

does anyone have the spec for the socket that works on the ball joint threaded retainer castle nut ring thing?

Like This?


Scott

[Dr K]

I can measure mine tonight, but it was only about $15 at FLAPS. I'm pretty sure it was called a 4x4 Hub Removal Tool, and actually has a ring around the outside that keeps it centered. I've used it 3 times now and it works really well (requires a good impact driver). You can also borrow mine if you're down this way - it's not a tool I use often (but the gas would cost more than the tool unless you were coming here anyway).

Peter

[scott]

I took the suggestion of the 4x4 hub socket solution to tackle the ball joint removal and install, I purchased this 4x4 hub socket
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/LIS0/27250/N1695.oap?ck=Search_N1695_LIS_-1_-1&mn=Lisle&mc=LIS&pt=N1695&ppt=C0195

...but the four locking "sprags" only contacted about a third of the depth of the slots in the "castlelated" ring nut.

I cut four slots between each of the sprags and then proceeded to collapse the outer ring inwards. this took about 20 mins of hammering. I thought about dragging the mig out to stitch up the slots, but thought I would give it a try with out.



Results: The socket centered better and engaged the nut deeper. I was able to use a breaker bar with extension to remove and a torque wrench to install.
when I get some spare garage time, I will clean it up a bit and weld up the relief cuts.

Consider this "gem" part of the Dorkiphus loaner tool inventory.

FLAPS price for the Lisle socket was 20 buck. Lisle part number 27250


Scott

[Vicegrip]

I like your thinking.

[Jazzbass]

Nicely done.

[Dr K]

Interesting. Mine fit almost perfectly, centered well, and removed 3 ball joints in a row without any problems whatsoever (I used an impact wrench for all three - easier to hold steady and with pressure than a breaker bar).