Help with Spec Boxster (starting issue)

[Dr K]

Well, problems with the Spec Boxster. This is a 1997 car previously converted to a race car so I don't know where they put some things that were moved in the process.

It was doing great (battery had run down with trickle charger lost power but it started fine with a jump box). Took the car to have the door bars redone for safety reasons. It started fine at the cage shop (with a jump) but when I went to pick it up...nothing. When connected to a jump box, there's power when I turn on the kill switch (everything lights up) but it doesn't even click when I turn the key. I hooked it to a charger for 3 days--no change even when connected to a freshly-charged lead-acid jump box. I tried bypassing the kill switch--nothing. I'm reasonably sure the car has power but the starter is doing nothing.

Could welding have done something? The shop was an extremely experienced shop so I doubt they were less than completely careful.

Immobilizer? Not sure where it would have been moved to.

The car is on my (Trailex open) trailer and I'm afraid to take it off because I won't be able to get it back on to take it to a shop if I can't get it going.

I'd welcome any advice. Thanks in advance.

Peter

[cmartin]

Start simple. Battery terminals clean? Test the battery.

Assume it still have a key? Test light at starter when you, start.

[BillC]

It's possible that your battery has completely died. Even with a fully-charged jump box, a dead battery will prevent the car from starting.

It's also possible the ignition switch has died. That switch is known for not being super reliable, and I keep a spare one in my box of parts.

When you turn the key, does the dash light up?

Can you pull the switch and try jumping the starter wire? From what I can see in the online wiring diagrams, it looks like the 4mm Yellow wire in pin #50 is the one to the starter.

Also, there's a relay in the trunk controlling the starter -- you could pull it and try jumping the both 4mm Yellow wires (looks like pins #3 and #5). Might be easier than pulling the ignition switch, especially on the trailer.

Also, have you checked the fuses?

[hoophead]

Check the clutch switch too. Above the pedals under the dash.

All the above are good suggestions - could also be the starter itself. Over the years on various cars I've replaced an ignition switch, clutch switch, and a couple of starters.

[Patrick3000]

It's possible that your battery has completely died. Even with a fully-charged jump box, a dead battery will prevent the car from starting.



^^^

Replace the battery with new, you need a new one regardless 👍

[Goggles Paesano]

I would jump the starter with a separate battery. If the starter works, check the basics - bypass the safety switch, see what voltage you get at the starter when turning the key, and check the wiring carefully. I had the same issue on a 944 and it turned out to be a badly crimped wire at the cut off switch. The fact that there is no click does sound more like the immobilizer or safety switch though. Good luck.

[Dr K]

Thanks, all. I'll see if I can get a meter on the starter to check the voltage.

I assume the "safety switch" to which Denis is referring is the immobilizer. I've never actually had to deal with an immobilizer, which I assume has been moved from underneath the driver's seat. Any idea what a common "new" location would likely be? I figure I'll need to remove the roof (much easier after Bill C taught me how to install quarter-turn fasteners) and maybe the driver's seat but can't believe they'd leave it under there in a race car...

[HoodPin]

I recently dealt with a bad clutch switch on our Boxster. Easiest fix is to fab a short jumper with space connectors to bypass the switch. Just remember, car can try to start when engaged in gear.

[Dr K]

I recently dealt with a bad clutch switch on our Boxster. Easiest fix is to fab a short jumper with space connectors to bypass the switch. Just remember, car can try to start when engaged in gear.

That's already been done to this car. Big help trying to warm up the engine a little before qualifying or a race. Although with the new door bars and angled bar by the A pillar it's a lot easier to get into and out of the car now...

[Goggles Paesano]

I would jump the starter with a separate battery. If the starter works, check the basics - bypass the safety switch, see what voltage you get at the starter when turning the key, and check the wiring carefully. I had the same issue on a 944 and it turned out to be a badly crimped wire at the cut off switch. The fact that there is no click does sound more like the immobilizer or safety switch though. Good luck.

I meant the clutch pedal safety switch. even though it has been changed or bypassed, that will 100 percent give the symptoms you describe when it is not working.

[Trak Ratt]

Thanks, all. I'll see if I can get a meter on the starter to check the voltage.

I assume the "safety switch" to which Denis is referring is the immobilizer. I've never actually had to deal with an immobilizer, which I assume has been moved from underneath the driver's seat. Any idea what a common "new" location would likely be? I figure I'll need to remove the roof (much easier after Bill C taught me how to install quarter-turn fasteners) and maybe the driver's seat but can't believe they'd leave it under there in a race car...

I don’t believe they are the same. The trunk switch is to stop the fuel pump incase of rear end collision. IIRC the immobilized is an anti theft .

[Dr K]

So, which of these switches would allow the engine to crank and not catch (NOT the problem here), and which would keep the starter motor (and solenoid) from doing anything at all (I don't even get a click).

I assume the following would inhibit even a click:
Bad key switch
Bad solenoid
No battery power
Clutch/Brake switches but should allow cranking if bypassed (as they are on this car)

Thanks for the advice (and any corrections to this post)

[HoodPin]

Check battery voltage first. If seems good, then try to start. If voltage drops way down, then the battery is toast.

FLAPS carry remote starter switch, where you can jump the starter to bypass the ignition switch.
69257

There's also some battery testers that will assess the battery's condition, without having to turn on anything.

[Dr K]

Thanks! Isn't O'Reilly's a midwest chain? Is there one up near you?

Fortunately, they have these at FLAPS that do exist in MoCo, like AutoZone and Advance Auto...

BTW, this is all your fault, Tony. If you only hadn't sold me that seat I just had installed... I'm sure that's the problem!!

[cmartin]

what are you trying to accomplish? Screwdriver across the terminals works too.

Does the starter get a signal to start? test light.

This simple test cuts the testing in half.

[TurboPooch]

Get the battery tested first since it is a simple task. If ok call the shop and see if they unhooked the battery, DME, and immobilizer when they were welding on the car. If not, welding voltages can damage them...like getting struck by mild lightning. If they did, then my bet is on the immobilizer or starter relay. Eliminate the immobilizer by borrowing one with it's DME companion and key head with the chip in it and swapping out all three.

[Dr K]

Get the battery tested first since it is a simple task. If ok call the shop and see if they unhooked the battery, DME, and immobilizer when they were welding on the car. If not, welding voltages can damage them...like getting struck by mild lightning. If they did, then my bet is on the immobilizer or starter relay. Eliminate the immobilizer by borrowing one with its DME companion and key head with the chip in it and swapping out all three.

Steve, can you put the wrong key in the car (with the key's matching DME and immobilizer) and start the car that way? How do you turn the key? Thanks in advance.

Chris - thanks for the advice.

All: does the immobilizer keep the starter from turning, or just not let the engine "catch" while the starter is turning it?

I'll check with the (very reputable) shop about disconnecting the battery, DME and immobilizer before welding.