Lug Nut(s) Question - Wow

[red83sc]

Hi all - getting my wheels re-done. I was told i should get new lug nuts. So i have a few questions and hope some will chime in. Background info - Red 83' 911 Cabriolet - #1 does anyone have any recommendations for a brand that's worked for them ? I've noticed the prices are fantastically all over the place. #2 this SC has 1 locking nut which i haven't seen advertised with the sets i've seen. #3 Judging from the weight of the ones i removed, i think they must be aluminum, is it ok to replace with steel ? And finally #4 has anyone ever just taken a good old can of gloss krylon and given it the ole' jr high try and sprayed em' ? and had any luck ? thanks for any and all replies.

[BlackTalon]

Who said you should get new lug nuts, and what was their reason?

Start at Pelican and look at their options. New aluminum ones are about $100 for the set. Most people who track or auto-x go with the steel ones. I've had the steel ones on my car for 20 or so years with no issues. Painting them is a bit silly, since the studs poke through (the steel ones have open ends, while the aluminum are closed).

[red83sc]

Thanks Dave, I was told (by multiple folks in the pca club) that since the wheels (fuchs) were being turned and re-sprayed they would look much better. The originals now 42 years old are faded and worn.

[Dr K]

There are probably a lot of decent-shape aluminum ones in the hands or other Dorkis who have gone to steel. Steel is superior to aluminum in many ways, not the least of which is being able to see the stud so you know the lug nuts aren't unwinding, but they don't look as good (if the aluminum nuts are in good shape). The studs are steel - I think steel-steel is better than steel-aluminum but some on this board probably know better than I about metal-to-metal contact--feel free to correct me.

[BlackTalon]

Thanks Dave, I was told (by multiple folks in the pca club) that since the wheels (fuchs) were being turned and re-sprayed they would look much better. The originals now 42 years old are faded and worn.Okay, so strictly for aesthetics. They do get scuffed up a bit if you regularly pull off the wheels. If you are thinking of replacing them, might be worth a $5 can of spray paint first.

[Eplebnista]

Buy steel lug nuts and then look online for lug nut covers. Spay paint those to match your wheels.

[SRG]

Hammerite paint (liquid or spray -liquid is better) works well and is pretty tough for DIY paint on steel, but on lug nuts it's still gonna chip from the socket if not done very carefully and not very often

[HoodPin]

As already mentioned, if wheels go on & off regularly (like track or autocross) then steel lugs is the way to go. If the wheels are only addressed once or twice a year, then aluminum lugs look nicer. But remember that aluminum lugs will be easier to strip if over-torqued (especially important if your car is being serviced by someone that's not detail oriented).

[red83sc]

Thanks to all that replied, appreciate it ! I gave em' a spray but not sure how they'll hold up. I may put another coat on tomorrow. I'll be careful in the on / off process too. Worst thing i suppose is a little spent time and a $6.85 can of Rust-oleum. Hodpin mentioned torquing (and that's an excellent point.) Since i'll be doing it, does anyone know the spec for tightening these Fuchs on an SC ? Thanks alot.

[Trak Ratt]

Quick note; if you can see the outline of the top cover they’ve reached their expiration date

[Dr K]

Since i'll be doing it, does anyone know the spec for tightening these Fuchs on an SC ? Thanks alot.

96 foot-pounds

[Vicegrip]

Rustolium satin is a reasonable match to the anodized finish which is not paint. Block sand using 180 to 220 grit paper to remove the mountains. Leave the low spots. Clean with flash solvent. Don’t skip this part as any tire shine in any amount will mess up the paint. 2 Thin coats inside the recommended timeline as provided on the can. Wait a week before installing. Dry to touch is not the same as fully hardened.

Get a “soft socket”. Remove lug nuts with a rattle gun. A couple ugga duggas to break them loose seems to cause less damage. Install by hand. Torque to spec and stop at the first click. ( that part does not matter for the nuts it just bugs me that people double click things)

[red83sc]

Peter - Thanks for the spec. I needed that ! Vicegrip - Thanks for the info on the painting. I'll let them set up for a few more days. I was thinking the same thing re' the on and off process. I'm not sure what a "soft socket" is, let me know if you would. I use air-impact to remove (getting old-lol) though to install i can sure hand tighten :lol:

[BlackTalon]

Easy Google serach:

https://www.google.com/search?q=soft+socket+for+lug+nuts&rlz=1C1MKDC_enUS773US773&oq=soft+socket+lug&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUqCAgBEAAYFhgeMgYIABBFGDkyCAgBEA AYFhgeMg0IAhAAGIYDGIAEGIoFMg0IAxAAGIYDGIAEGIoFMg0I BBAAGIYDGIAEGIoFMg0IBRAAGIYDGIAEGIoFMgoIBhAAGIAEGK IEMgoIBxAAGIAEGKIE0gEKMTA4NTZqMGoxNagCCLACAfEF7j-cfO2p6Xc&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

[red83sc]

Thanks Dave, never heard of this type of thing,
(learn something new every day) :cool