993 mid-life refresh project

[edevinney]

The failing paint on my 993 started the ball rolling on a refresh project: why not take care of the stuff I knew it needs before sending it out for a respray?

https://s3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/connected-things.com/IMG_20180304_151624-1008x756.jpg

The priority here is to avoid shipwright's disease and fix what needs fixing while staying away from the madness of while you're in there-itis. The last time I did this, my '72 'cuda 340 was in parts for more than a decade and a running work in progress for another 5-6 years. Ain't nobody got time for that.

The trans has been problematic since I got the car, so it's going off to Brian Copan. Could pull the trans and leave the engine in, but it needs valve cover gaskets, caps+rotors+dizzy belt+wires, and timing chain cover seals for sure, so it seems best to drop it:

https://s3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/connected-things.com/IMG_20181007_140605-756x1008.jpg

So far I've managed to avoid removing all the suspension in favor of cleaning in place, but there really should be a 12-step process.

https://s3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/connected-things.com/IMG_20181111_151721-756x1008.jpg

Isn't powder coating great? :shock:


https://s3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/connected-things.com/IMG_20181111_145644-1008x756.jpg

[Vicegrip]

The failing paint on my 993 started the ball rolling on a refresh project: why not take care of the stuff I knew it needs before sending it out for a respray?

https://s3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/connected-things.com/IMG_20180304_151624-1008x756.jpg

The priority here is to avoid shipwright's disease and fix what needs fixing while staying away from the madness of while you're in there-itis. The last time I did this, my '72 'cuda 340 was in parts for more than a decade and a running work in progress for another 5-6 years. Ain't nobody got time for that.

The trans has been problematic since I got the car, so it's going off to Brian Copan. Could pull the trans and leave the engine in, but it needs valve cover gaskets, caps+rotors+dizzy belt+wires, and timing chain cover seals for sure, so it seems best to drop it:

https://s3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/connected-things.com/IMG_20181007_140605-756x1008.jpg

So far I've managed to avoid removing all the suspension in favor of cleaning in place, but there really should be a 12-step process.

https://s3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/connected-things.com/IMG_20181111_151721-756x1008.jpg

Isn't powder coating great? :shock:


https://s3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/connected-things.com/IMG_20181111_145644-1008x756.jpg3 weeks from now he will be pulling the motor :)

[Rick Lee]

I've done this job. I pulled only the tranny. Reinstall was no fun, but I got it done .... and then realized I had the wrong shift coupler that made the shifter feel welded in place when I got all it all back together. Turns out the one I bought on eBay was listed by the part number on the box, which was for a C2, which I had. But the actual part in the box was for a C4/S. Cost $700 to have that error tracked down and corrected by a pro. What a nightmare. And I did plugs and wires and dist. rebuild the hard way - with engine in the car. Man, that was a job.

[edevinney]

3 weeks from now he will be pulling the motor :)

Oh yes. Yes he will. That's my Christmas break project.

But not the suspension. A man's got to know his limitations.

[Dave O]

Oh come on, go full rothaus on it! :D

[edevinney]

Oh come on, go full rothaus on it! :D

I did just order a gallon of Oil Eater based on rothaus's SC suspension thread.

[edevinney]

I can stop any time I want. Really.

http://connectedthings.net/993/cleanwheelwell.jpg

[VaSteve]

How do you clean with the hose in the garage without making a gigantic mess?

[edevinney]

The cleaning work is all just as Rothaus says - spray the oil eater, scrape and scrub. Repeat. Water mess is kept down with low pressure and big plastic bins underneath.

[AOW162435]

Ed,
Looking forward to watching your progress. I drove a 993 transmission out to Copans' shop many years ago. Great people to work with and a very impressive shop.




Andreas

[edevinney]

OK - tips and tricks for stuck exhaust studs? 6 came out, six did not. The remainers are rusted and in no condition to be reused, so really must come out.

To date, I've tried and failed with:

days of PB Blaster, with hammer tapping
heating the stud
heating the head from the exhaust port
welding on a nut and trying to remove when warm
welding on a nut and letting it cool
welding on a nut and heating the head from the exhaust port

In each case I've tried gentle turning R and L, sometimes with light impact. I support the tool and stud while applying force, to avoid bending forces. The studs just laugh at me and snap, usually right above the twisting point. I'm a fat, out of shape computer guy usually using a 3/8 ratchet, so there's something going on here besides my Hulkish strength.

The motor is coming out, so I could pull the heads to have the studs removed and have the valves done While I'm In There, but as noted I'm trying hard to avoid Shipwright's Disease.

Maybe the studs have gotten brittle with age and heat cycles? Regardless, I'd really like to get them out safely and move on to bigger things - hints and tips are most appreciated

[Too Tall]

Heat it with a torch, spray water and quickly use a impact wrench.

[cmartin]

You said heat, glowing red?

[edevinney]

You said heat, glowing red?

Yep - the stud anyway. Couldn't get the head very hot, though, even with an oxy-propane torch. Maybe I'm just a woose with the torch.

[dyerkes]

Are you just trying to remove the headers, or did you already remove the headers and for whatever reason need to remove the studs. If you were just attempting to remove the headers you simply need to use a torch and get the exhaust nuts red hot before attempting to remove them. Heat will cause the nut to expand as well as break any rust bond. If you purposely focus the heat to the stud, then it too will expand, and It won´t be as effective. Stomski Racing makes a great tool for accurately boring out broken exhaust or intake studs.

Regards,
David

[edevinney]

Headers are off - in 6 cases, the nut was frozen to the stud and the stud came out of the head. The other 6 nuts came off the studs, but the studs are rusted and were in no shape to reuse. Thanks for the pointer to the Stomski tool - that looks to be the bee's knees.

[Vicegrip]

Work on it when the motor is out. Weld a nut on. Heat the aluminum to 350 or so col the stud with a blast of spray type penetrating oil of choice. Use an impact gun set to a lower setting. Low enough that a full power blast can't twist off the stud.

Heat, spray and hit it with the gun for 90 seconds or more. Spray more pen oil and heat it again. Hit it with a full cycle again It will come out on one of the cycles. Penetrating oil goes in deeper as the metals cool.down. If it comes part way out and binds up run it back in a bit after soaking I. some more oil. Aluminum oxide is very hard and sometimes wads up and jams up in the threads

Headphones and some long interesting podcast to maintain patience.

[jgerock]

Headers are off - in 6 cases, the nut was frozen to the stud and the stud came out of the head. The other 6 nuts came off the studs, but the studs are rusted and were in no shape to reuse. Thanks for the pointer to the Stomski tool - that looks to be the bee's knees.


I have the Stomski tool. I used it once when replacing the heat exchangers on my 77 targa. It works great. Since I am selling the car, I will also sell the tool. Pm me if you are interested.

[edevinney]

For lack of oil line service wrenches (darn you, slow shipping!), the engine wasn't *quite* ready to come out this weekend. So I've spent the time doing maintenance & cleaning tasks and ordering large piles of stuff from suppliers. Glad my time is free, because the parts sure aren't, but I'm looking forward to the results.

Cleaned out all the wheel wells, with a big hat tip to Rothaus for giving up his secrets of Oil Eater and muscle. The oil eater has a hard time with the hardest cosmoline+dirt encrustations, but Stoner's Xenit spray will dissolve those crusts into goo. Then use the oil eater spray to emulsify the goo, and gently wash off. Most satisfying, even if the car will never, ever get near Englebart's standards!

The Stoner part of the name is serious - MSDS says it's mostly naptha and other distillates, with a pleasant citrus smell that covers the damage to your brain cells. Keep a door or window open.

Cleaned up a bunch of stainless exhaust parts with a mild muriatic acid bath - about one tablespoon per quart of water, and let soak for a few days, followed by a mild baking soda rinse. They won't come out shiny new, but it gets most of the rust stains off and loosens the crud for easy wire brushing.

Discounting the nearly-dissolved rear bumper stays and catalyst heat shield, I've only found a little rust where the rear fender support wings bolt to the frame rails. Inside the rail is super clean, so I cleaned up the flaky rust and entombed the remainder per Rust Bullet's instructions. The parts are thoroughly buried so I slopped it on and will backfill with fluid film before buttoning things back up. Hopefully it'll work but since it's taken 23 years to get this far things should be good.

The Rust Bullet paint is as much hydrocarbon fun as the Xenit, btw. Keep a window open and enjoy the old-timey shop smell.

I'm sure there's rot waiting to be found in the windshield or backlight frame. Or both. Maybe we should have a pool?

[Vicegrip]

hey now, the little blue roll cart seems familiar somehow.

Poor mans oil line wrenches is harbor fright cheap but big wrenches one mm too small and ground open to just fit. ;)

[edevinney]

It's happily busy in it's new home. Thanks for the tip on the HF wrenches, that's what I'm waiting on.

[edevinney]

Public Service Announcement: Be sure of your metals. Turns out that 993 muffler brackets aren't stainless after all, but are mild steel underneath what looks like nickel. Well, it looked like nickel, kinda hard to tell now that it's in solution with the HCl. Maybe 3 days was too long in the tank.

Anyway, I'm sure they'll look nice in some high-temp black paint.

[Vicegrip]

Even stainless can be attacked. Does a standard magnet stick to it? Stainless is almost non magnetic.

[edevinney]

I tried the magnet after I noticed the new look - it stuck.

Poor order of operations yields poor results.

[Pklough]

Perhaps a kind work colleague of yours would offer you a much newer ride at a very reasonable price that wouldn’t require all this effort. A daily driver to keep a smile on your face while you work on this one for the next decade. ;). You know where to find me.

[edevinney]

If only you hadn't sold that sweet cargo van...

...because if this project takes years I'll have to live in a van.

Today was for lights, following recipes that have proved out for others. Disassembled the headlight and foglight modules to be ready for incoming replacement glass from EBag. Ordered up HID headlight bulbs and LEDs from Bergvill, Moriomoto projectors from theretrofitsource, and LED high beam bulbs from Cyclops. With any luck the HID+LED high beams will double as laser cannons.

The foglights were yellowed inside but now ride eternal, shiny and chrome. Witness me!

[edevinney]

Poor mans oil line wrenches is harbor fright cheap but big wrenches one mm too small and ground open to just fit. ;)

Turns out that the Horrible Freight 15-piece service wrench set includes a 33mm, which was a perfect fit.

[edevinney]

Victory is ours.

I was glad to have Paul's help - he kept squinting at the big lump in the back of the car and had the good sense to lash the chassis to the lift arms. Even if the weight change didn't destabilize, there was some risk of pushing the car off the lift when easing it down to the rollybench.

[edevinney]

My idea was to land the engine and trans on the table using wood blocking, which worked OK but isn't terribly stable. Paul suggestion #2: landing gear.

[Pklough]

My idea was to land the engine and trans on the table using wood blocking, which worked OK but isn't terribly stable. Paul suggestion #2: landing gear.

You built that fast. Hey, weren’t you supposed to be at work today?;)

[edevinney]

The whole pile was just a little too wobbly to walk away from last night. A couple of cuts, couple zaps with the very hot glue gun and voila!

[Jazzbass]

Nice work!

[edevinney]

Houston, we have separation - the G50 module is ready to rendezvous with Copans for a rebuild.

Thinking that driving the gearbox to OH might actually be easier than getting it to/through a shipper...

[edevinney]

Fiat lux.

The Morimoto HIDs are high/low, so right now the high beam switch turns on both the HID highs and also LEDs in the old high beam location. A little disappointing that they don't actually set things on fire with all bulbs on, but maybe that was unrealistic.

The double high beam is overkill for most use. I've figured out how to wire things up with a couple of relays and a microcontroller to let the HID high beams run solo when you set the switch forward and latch the HIDs+LEDs on when you hold the switch back for a bit, but that'll have to wait as I need to have this thing running at the end of February in order to be painted.

[edevinney]

G50 is on a pallet and ready to go to OH, alternator is out and ready to go to Arlington Armature along with the starter. With the alternator and fan out of the way I can see some of my oil leaks. This looks like case through bolts, yes?

[AOW162435]

^ Check the underside of the intake manifold for oil.



Andreas

[edevinney]

There is indeed oil leaking from the manifold bolts on the LH side, so apparently even when using the gauge I must have been overfilling the oil. I'd planned on pulling the manifold and replacing the vram actuator seals, etc.

So there's plenty of oil topside. If that's what we're seeing on the case I'm curious how it gets through the fan shroud.

[edevinney]

Mission Control confirms that the G50 landed in Athens OH this morning and is on a stand now.

On the engine side, it looks like it'd be prudent to replace the fan bearing, and the old-style alternator pulley while in there. Include the cost of a new belt and that part of the job is half way to a Clewitt serpentine conversion.

I intend to drive the heck out of this car and thus will be sitting in traffic (see what I did there?) with the AC and stereo on. Maybe Clewitt isn't the best idea?!

[AOW162435]

Mission Control confirms that the G50 landed in Athens OH this morning and is on a stand now.

On the engine side, it looks like it'd be prudent to replace the fan bearing, and the old-style alternator pulley while in there. Include the cost of a new belt and that part of the job is half way to a Clewitt serpentine conversion.

I intend to drive the heck out of this car and thus will be sitting in traffic (see what I did there?) with the AC and stereo on. Maybe Clewitt isn't the best idea?!

Ed,
Good to hear that the gearbox is with Brian - prudent choice.

I installed a Clewett setup on my 993 almost 4 years ago. Absolutely zero regrets or issues. Since then I’ve installed, or helped install, four other Clewett setups for other 993 owners. It’s simple, and it works.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v452/aowalter/Porsche%20parts/10C9DC5D-5F8E-4C49-B767-12F8625033F4_zpsubuxjeoe.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/aowalter/media/Porsche%20parts/10C9DC5D-5F8E-4C49-B767-12F8625033F4_zpsubuxjeoe.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v452/aowalter/Porsche%20parts/ED1D849B-5281-464D-80C1-C865DBD2CFC6_zpsltakaujt.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/aowalter/media/Porsche%20parts/ED1D849B-5281-464D-80C1-C865DBD2CFC6_zpsltakaujt.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v452/aowalter/Porsche%20parts/BE1B772E-DA2C-4C6C-A559-392521B62DD0_zpsrmkllyhc.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/aowalter/media/Porsche%20parts/BE1B772E-DA2C-4C6C-A559-392521B62DD0_zpsrmkllyhc.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v452/aowalter/Porsche%20parts/136C4FC1-81E0-4EF6-A363-22A265576E12_zps17fcpeve.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/aowalter/media/Porsche%20parts/136C4FC1-81E0-4EF6-A363-22A265576E12_zps17fcpeve.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v452/aowalter/Porsche%20parts/6147A7BA-B86F-4334-A95C-83E73F7BFD29_zpsr3ifkpw5.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/aowalter/media/Porsche%20parts/6147A7BA-B86F-4334-A95C-83E73F7BFD29_zpsr3ifkpw5.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v452/aowalter/Porsche%20parts/14514CDB-C1BF-4F7A-A6D4-5FADF6ED50A2_zpsoitkjac3.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/aowalter/media/Porsche%20parts/14514CDB-C1BF-4F7A-A6D4-5FADF6ED50A2_zpsoitkjac3.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v452/aowalter/Porsche%20parts/B52B380D-A039-4692-9CB3-FCC0F6C25C14_zpso6r74f20.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/aowalter/media/Porsche%20parts/B52B380D-A039-4692-9CB3-FCC0F6C25C14_zpso6r74f20.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v452/aowalter/Porsche%20parts/AA626A8F-D06D-4215-8E86-E235DBA56098_zpsofwf10hy.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/aowalter/media/Porsche%20parts/AA626A8F-D06D-4215-8E86-E235DBA56098_zpsofwf10hy.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v452/aowalter/Porsche%20parts/6B1EF445-E85A-4B69-B14D-F99CD2F09BC6_zpsa9vqn0h5.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/aowalter/media/Porsche%20parts/6B1EF445-E85A-4B69-B14D-F99CD2F09BC6_zpsa9vqn0h5.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v452/aowalter/Porsche%20parts/D8979F0B-CE8F-41A9-8D93-A319B4848732_zps4bzw3lnf.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/aowalter/media/Porsche%20parts/D8979F0B-CE8F-41A9-8D93-A319B4848732_zps4bzw3lnf.jpg.html)




Andreas

[edevinney]

Done deal, vielen Dank.

[AOW162435]

Done deal, vielen Dank.

Gern geschehen. :)



Andreas

[edevinney]

Got the engine on the stand and pulled the intake - lots of oil, as expected, draining out of both the varioram valve and the driver's side center section/runner joint. I took the runner sections off of the center and will re-seal them after cleaning the inside and replacing the varioram shaft and valve seals.

From looking at others pix, the intake is almost certainly the source of the oil dripping down the driver's side of the case. There's a bunch of oil+dirt buildup on the driver's side of the fan shroud, showing where it's coming down and apparently getting blown over the LH side of the motor.

The timing chain boxes are also leaking but after looking with a strong light I think it's almost all due to the covers and not the box-to-case seal, and definitely not the cam seal. That's nice, since pulling the boxes looks like a PITA, would probably blow my schedule, and would require a 3rd call this week to Steve Stomski for tools...

Spoke with Brian Copans today and found that there's nothing too worn in my gearbox that a big pile of money won't fix. I couldn't send a big enough pile to turn it into a G50/21 or /31 but that's OK - it'll be awesome to have a fresh trans and LSD. Should have it back in about 10 days or so.

Off to Arlington Armature tomorrow morning with starter and alternator to be freshened up.

[edevinney]

Three steps forward, two back. Marren Motorsports can't find my injectors although USPS said they were delivered on Saturday. Grrr. Snapped one of the intake bolts, fortunately not super close to the head, will try patience and PB Blaster over the next couple of evenings.

(Edit: Marren found the box. Both intake bolts came out. Yay.)

Rotorootered the secondary air injection ports, and found all 3 on the pax side totally blocked. That and the frozen check valve would explain the Check Engine Light and P0410 code.

Stripped, cleaned, and reassembled the Varioram assembly and opened up the clutch. Flywheel and pressure plate are straight and unworn, although each has some discoloration from the rust of 4k miles/year - both will get a scuffing and go back into service. Disk has plenty of meat left at 50k miles, but I'll replace it and the throwout bearing.

Another pile of parts is on the way and hopefully this weekend will mean a start to buttoning things back up.

[edevinney]

Much progress today thanks to two tool gods.

Thanks to Andreas' Sisterhood of the Traveling Wrench, I was able to remove the stock crank pulley and install the Clewett piece. Thanks again, Andreas!

Spent lot of quality time with Steve Stomkski's head stud repair kit, which is what my friend Gray would call slick as snot and is worth every penny of the $300 price. 7 attempts, 7 clean repairs, including 2 ports with both studs snapped. In 4 cases, the old thread came out as a single stretched helix - almost as good as peeling the shrink wrap off a new phone.

The tool is made to register to and be held down by a stud, so Steve says to have an assistant hold the tool in place when both studs are broken. Better than no tool at all, but seems like a recipe for disappointment (and helicoil).

Fortunately the 993 has a dual bolt pattern on the ports, so I used the tool as a template and made a friend who won't let me down:

[AOW162435]

Ed,
Glad I could help!



Andreas

[edevinney]

Engine is getting ready to go back up on the rolly bench, with a suitably reinforced carrier. I used the rennline DIY reinforcement and found when setting up for welding that the stock carrier was bowed nearly 3/4". Maybe they all do that, I dunno, but since I usually warp stuff when I weld it felt good to end up with a straight piece.

Brian Copans says the trans is done, hopefully it'll be back by next weekend.

[edevinney]

After deploying the landing gear and taking a short tethered flight the M64 module came to rest once again on the rollybench transporter. The G50 module is on its way back from OH and should dock with the M64 this weekend, with the entire assembly returning to the Mother Ship soon after.

[edevinney]

My precioussssss!

[edevinney]

Ready for the mothership connection - gettin' down in 3D!

[AOW162435]

Moving right along!



Andreas

[edevinney]

It was nice to look at on the bench but more useful in the car. Only 6,465 things left to do!

[cmartin]

Great work

[edevinney]

It's ALIVE!

https://media1.tenor.com/images/898c144beafe192c03977e905c6d6c37/tenor.gif?itemid=5931856

Making a racket, though - I might have reassembled one or both tensioners backwards.
Because I didn't pay attention to this detail.
Because I only now learned, when reading about why new lifters don't pump up, that the tensioners can go together backwards.

Something for tomorrow, when it's cooled off.

EDIT: Bingo! Driver's side tensioner inverted. Sounds pretty good now.

https://vimeo.com/319241853

[edevinney]

After 95 days on the lift, the Mother Ship returned to earth today. My 'cuda 340 project spent about 30x that long out of commission, so I'm rather chuffed. Reviewing the long Trello list of tasks makes me think that the lift paid for itself.

Last job in the air was to replace both cooling fan ballasts. I did it as a while-you're-in-there job. It was a PITA, but both had failed. Definitely important for a daily driver and since replacement requires pulling the front bumper cover, much better to do before paint.

I let the car idle for 15-20 minutes and drove it around the driveway a bit and all seems to be well. The 964 engine mounts definitely make more NVH than the pillowy 993 mounts, but not terrible. Hopefully they'll work well with the FDM short shifter and shift rod for a nice driving experience. It's a happy NVH, too - adding another player to the Stuttgart Symphony Orchestra out back.

Unfortunately the weather will conspire against getting the car over to the body shop on Monday (see also "Old Man Yells At Cloud").

[86911TLCAB]

Great work. Congrats getting it done in 3 months.

[edevinney]

Car's now at the spa for a few weeks, I should have some pics during the work.

I was really surprised at the NVH during my drive to work today, including a lot of gearbox noise even when cold. Not at all what I'd been reading about RS motor mounts. So I checked my receipts, and sure enough I bought an RS transaxle mount as well: 96437505581. Apparently the trans mount makes a big difference for NVH. Unfortunately it's not a simple swap.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SOJSM46nWwo

[Modian]

Great work with everything. I'm jealous of the work area.

Are you still using Village Body?

[edevinney]

Great work with everything. I'm jealous of the work area.

Are you still using Village Body?

I wish I was - his work is great and I love his approach, but he's way too busy with existing customers to take on new work. Based on the recommendation of a friend who's a Benz concours guy I'm using D&V Masters in Sterling. They've apparently done at least 1/2 a dozen 993s in the last year, so at least they're not learning on my car :-)

[AOW162435]

Ed,
Can’t wait to see the results!

As for the NVH, I too installed RS motor mounts many years ago. The only time I notice increased NVH is when the A/C is on. I can overlook that in favor of the simple & robust design of the mounts.

I suspect the transmission mount is your suspect.




Andreas

[edevinney]

Next patient, please. Send in another victim of industrial disease...

[Pklough]

Next patient, please. Send in another victim of industrial disease...

Wow. Looks good. I though the moss and oak trees growing on it were permanent. Pressure washers work miracles.

[KFJ]

Next patient, please. Send in another victim of industrial disease...Good luck with your war.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

[edevinney]

I'm writing a modern adaptation of Don Quixote. 944s figure prominently.

I followed the advice here and elsewhere for Mobile 1 Delvac to fill the G50 box. Since it also looked to be compatible with my 4runner's diffs, I bought 3 gallons and did the 993 and all 3 diffs in the 4runner.

The retired AF COL previous owner of the T4r was pretty fanatical about maintenance, and lube that drained from the diffs looked clean and poured out very easy, so I'm assuming it was a synthetic.

Whatever it was, the Delvac is clearly superior in at least one way: after about 500 miles I'm quite sure that fuel 'economy' is up at least 1mpg. Which isn't much, but for a 2 metric ton V8 AWD that's over 5%.

If the same were to hold up against whatever usually goes in a G50, Delvac would be the cheapest horsepower you can buy.

[edevinney]

Hope no one's offended by nudie pix.

[AOW162435]

^ Awesome! Keep ‘em coming.



Andreas

[edevinney]

Shazam - the car hasn't looked this good in a long time!

[Dandelion]

Dayum. Nice color!

[blipshift]

Wow!

[edevinney]

As my inlaws always say, "Home again and broke" - the wallet, that is.

[edevinney]

Anyone need a set of RS engine mount?

At the end of the process the car went to Taylor's for an alignment and AC compressor change, and I asked him to R&R the trans mount. He found that it was a stock mount (I don't know where I saw that RS part number) and changed out the motor mounts. Voila, the gearbox is no longer rattling around the cabin when driving.

Now that the gearbox noise is reduced, I hear the intake drone from my surgery on the airbox cover. It's cool to hear the engine gulp air at start and when you step on it, but
I must be getting more delicate in my old age. Time to pick up a stock cover.

[Modian]

Looks great! I need to talk to them about doing mine.

I’m interested in the mounts. I think they fit.

[edevinney]

They'll fit - mostly 964 part numbers IIRC :-)

[Pklough]

As my inlaws always say, "Home again and broke" - the wallet, that is.

Car looks awesome. Is that color Gentian Blue? I saw somewhere that of the US bound 992s ordered so far, Gentian Blue is the number 1 choice. If it’s the same as yours I can see why. Beautiful - congrats. Now for the interior :)

[edevinney]

It's Iris Blue, which was a special order for a long time - interesting that a similar color is standard and popular now.

You should see the interior now. With the GT3 wheel, headliner fixed and the radio in correctly it's pretty presentable.

[edevinney]

D&V's ad targeting is pretty good, I was served this today and did a double take.