Tech Session at Curry's in Chantilly on March 6th!

[Rick Lee]

Those of us in next weekend's DE probably (hopefully) know this already, but these events are great for everyone. Come on out, bring the P-car, have some fat pills...I mean....donuts and let us check your ride out. Never pass up a chance to have your car looked at on a lift - for free. If this event is news to anyone, check out specifics on the Potomac PCA site. Kurt mentioned something about having 4 work lifts open, so this is THE time to do minor DIY jobs - oil changes, tranny fluid changes, brake flushes, a 3.6 swap - ok, not that. Come on out and hang with us.

[Jim Richards]

I'll be their to begin serving as an Evil Tech Inspector Trainee. See y'all there...

[Parenn911]

I'm going to try to make it. Anyone know what time people usually show up, I know it starts at 9am or something like that.

[type954]

runs from 9 to 2. people come and go at their leisure/availibility of food

[Vicegrip]

From the PCA Potomac site.

The 2004 Drivers Education season is right around the corner and there are many corners in store for us this season! Potomac PCA has events planned at Summit Point, Virginia International Raceway Watkins Glen, Mid Ohio, Carolina Motorsports Park and the new Shenandoah track at Summit Point. When you add to that list Zone 2 events and two high performance driving clinics it add up to a busy season indeed.
A big season needs a big start and we have just that in store. Matt Curry of Curry’s Automotive has opened a new shop to replace the original auto shop in Chantilly VA. The new shop incorporates all that Matt Curry and his team has learned over the years and has many state of the art features. My favorite is the 12 lifts. Yep, a dozen lifts. That just might cut down on the wait time for an inspection. Matt and his crew always put on a good party and provide plenty of food and drink for everyone. You do not need to be going to the Driver’s Education event to come to any of out tech events, which are always open to all.

Our cars have been hibernating or subjected to a cold, wet, winter and in either case some spring maintenance is needed to get ready for the track or street driving season. At this event we will be performing brake fluid replacement, brake pad replacement, CV service and wheel bearing adjustment demos all day. Four lifts will be reserved as work lifts with one just for brake flushing. If you bring new brake fluid we will supply the tools and show you how to flush your brakes. One quart is all that is needed for most cars and we recommend that you use at least ATE blue or gold. If the fluid has not been flushed in some time I recommend that you bring two quarts. Curry’s will also have pro mechanics on hand for help, parts and advice.

In addition to the Potomac PCA service demos there will be a pro demonstration of a clear bra paint protection system. This is a protective film that is factory-precut to the car and professionally applied. It can be installed on the areas that are likely to sustain rock chip damage. The 3M material is almost invisible, and unlike magnetic or cloth bras, it does not need to be removed when wet. Also it will not peel off when you are flying down the front straight. There will be two clear bra installation demos, the first at 10:00 a.m. and then again at 1:00 p.m.
Curry’s also offers professional automotive detailing. There will be a full 5-hour detail performed during the day. The products and methods will be discussed as the work is performed.

Good food, good friends, 12 lifts, ongoing service demos, pro detail and clear bra demos, what more could you want? Oh, I almost forgot, we will also be performing tech inspections for the season opening Drivers Education event at Summit Point. After the long winter, this is a good time to see some nice cars, catch up with old friends and meet some new ones.

There will be inspectors and shop mechanics to answer any questions you might have about your Porsche. With four dedicated work lifts there should be lift time available for work. Work lifts are first come first served and no appointments or registration for the work lifts or tech inspections are necessary. For more information contact Kurt Mickelwait (703) 534-8153 or tech@pcapotomac.org.


Details.
When. March 6th 2004 from 9:00 a.m. until 2:00 p.m. Service demos will be running all day. Please arrive and sign in for inspections before 1:30 p.m.

Where. Curry’s Auto Service. 4003-A Westfax Dr. Chantilly VA. Ph # (703) 502-0400

Directions. From 495. Take RT 66 West. Take route 28 North. Take route 50 West. Go aprox 1/4 and turn left just before the Pepsi plant onto Westfax Rd. Curry’s is 1/8 mile on the right.

[Parenn911]

If you bring new brake fluid we will supply the tools and show you how to flush your brakes. One quart is all that is needed for most cars and we recommend that you use at least ATE blue or gold. If the fluid has not been flushed in some time I recommend that you bring two quarts.
Anyone know where to get ATE brake fluid in the NoVA area, that I can pick up tomorrow morning?

[Trak Ratt]

Curry’s will have it.

[Rick Lee]

Or stop at any Olympic Auto on your way there. There's one by the Home Depot next to ASG.

[Parenn911]

It was great to see so many Dorki's show up. I had alot of fun checking out all of the other p-car's that were there, including Tony's new 951. That track beast is beautiful. Kurt, thanks for showing me how to flush my brake fluid. That brake fluid was like 3 different colors, like you said I was doing my 911 a favor by flushing it. Dave, thanks for inspecting my SC, I learned alot. Here's some photo's I took: http://www.dorkiphus.com/porsche/modules.php?set_albumName=album01&op=modload&name= gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php&page=6
The last photo on the next page is of a nice looking early 2.4 911 targa that I saw up the street from my place. Jim is that color Aubergine? Early 911's are a rarity in G'burg.

[Jim Richards]

Pari, that color is hard to make out. I think it more likely to be burgundy. Look for the aubergine 73 coupe on March 20th, weather permitting. Or maybe this weekend at SP, time / weather permitting.

Great to see y'all at Curry's Saturday. I didn't get to socialize too much, now being one of Kurt's Evil Tech Minion. Still, it was fun.

[William Miller]

First, it was great to put some names wil faces and cars.
Second, our host was great and if anyone see's him in the future please thank him.

I was the last car out of there. I drained the trans and then they told me they had to get the oil pump from another location. So that I could refill. I was really impressed at their efforts to help me. It all worked out in the end.

A few questions: I always have a few.
I had my car inspected, Jim, was that you? I'm not participating next weekend, but I anted to see if there were any thing that I would need to fix for the future. I was happy to find out that nbothing was found.


The check list is great.
Is the bottom section (I think it get's filled out the day of the event.) required for DE's or just races?

Kurt, at the end I believe you mentioned something while wiggling my seat back. I was distracted and didn't pick up on what you were looking at or your comments. I believe it had something to do with how much it moved foreward before it hit a stop. I think the driver's seat back went a few inches farther forward than the passanger's side. Can you explain?

I had my brake fluid flushed with a vacuum bleeder. It belonged to one of their mechanics. I don't think it did a good job. On the way home things felt much different. I wouldn't say they were spongy, but the pedal goes farther down before it begins to actuate the brakes. I've never seen this before. I've bleed brakes before dozens of times with the "old method" and never had this prioblem before. I've done it on thi car once before with my last pad replacement (Bleed not flush). I picked up Waynes 101 project's book and it actually has a section on using Kurt's pressure bleeder. He recommends using the old method following the flushing with the power unit. Diring the process I'm pretty sure the resivour did not go dry, but I can't explain why it seems different. I recall this morning that it's a little better. I hope to bleed them again tonight. So far there are no leaks so I don't think that's a problem. Kurt, I'm thinking that this had something to do with the vacuum method. We did not bleed them with the pedal following. I assumed he knew what he was doing.

BTW, what pressure do you pump your bleeder up to?
How do you plug off the overflow? Do they have a web site? dome of the websites I have seen recently actually let you download the instructions?
Thanks!

[Rick Lee]

Bill, the pressure bleeder is EASY to use. Pinch off the overflow hose with either the proper pinch-off tool or use vise grips and make sure to get it totally sealed and tight. Before you attach the power bleeder to the mast. cyl., pre-twist the bleeder cap counter clockwise so it will be straight when you tighten it clockwise on the mast. cyl. Pour a can of brake fluid in there, close the lid real tight and pump up to about 18 lbs., lock the handle down and see that it holds pressure. Then get to work.

[Jim Richards]

Bill, I don't believe I inspected your car. Are you referring to Jim Mcleod?

[Jase007]

RL:

and pump up to about 18 lbs.,

I have the Motive P-bleeder as well and the instructions say to go to 10psi. I too go higher (>15psi) but not up to 18psi. Not that it matters all that much but thought I'd mention it.

WM:

I bleed them doing both methods and the p-bleeder isn't as effective as the old fashioned way UNLESS the fluid is really old and / or hasn't been changed in a 100 gazillion (technical term) years.

Street cars: p-bleeder
Track cars: p-bleeder if necessary (cooked 'em going into #1,2,3,4,5...)and then old fashioned way.

FWIW

Jase

[William Miller]

Sorry Jim, I'll look at the sheet tonight. The guy was big with light hair.
Jase, my resovoiur has an overflow. The guy said the p bleeder won't work on it.
Now that I think about it, I'm not sure if it's an overflow or a tube just to catch fluid that spills. There is a small braided tube (Like a vacuum line) that comes off it twards the left and then goes down somewhere, I suspect dumps below the car somewhere?

I need to take a closer look. I guess the cap has a vent tolet air in as the fluid level goes down.

[Rick Lee]

Who the hell said you can't use a power bleeder because of an overflow tube?!?!?!? That person should not ever touch your car. I guess he thinks wheel lugs should be finger tight too, eh?

[William Miller]

It was the young guy in the blue shirt that worked there. He had the corner bay. Since you know. Is it an overflow? I assume if it is you just plug it?

[Jim Richards]

Sorry Jim, I'll look at the sheet tonight. The guy was big with light hair.
Not me. I'm not very big with grey hair. Maybe it was Rick Lee.

[Jase007]

As Mr. RL mentioned above in the thread...

Pinch off the overflow hose with either the proper pinch-off tool or use vise grips and make sure to get it totally sealed and tight.

Easy as pie to use. 8) And yes, do not allow the person who made that comment to come within 100ft of your car. :shock:

Jase

[APKhaos]

I think it was Gaylen working on Bill's car with the vacuum bleeder. He is a decent tech, but like a lot of these guys he believes what he has been taught, and nothing else. I guess he may never have seen a motive bleeder in action. Lets cut him some slack - there are many ways to bleed brakes!

FWIW, my trick with the overflow is to bend the tube over on itself, and lightly clamp it with vise grips. Uses less pressure, with less risk of damage to the overflow tube. And no, I will NOT listen to counter arguments. I believe this is the BEST way and will defend it to the death!!

[Rick Lee]

I think Galen knew what he was talking about. He sure knew his way around the underside of my 993. Maybe we're talking about someone else.

[William Miller]

It was not my intention to bust on the guy. He knew how his equiptment (the vacuum bleeder) worked and probably had done it more tham most of us with that. My guess is that he also works more often on newer cars since those are more likely to pay shop rates for repairs. He was young and may have been in diapers when SC's were brought to the shop for repairs. Personally, I liked the guy and he helped me out.

I'm just trying to learn the different ways to do these tasks. I have now been exposed to 3 different ways to bleed brakes.
Pump your foot method. (I think I prefer this if I have a helper)
P- bleeder (I think this would be my second)
V-bleader (maybe better, but takes more equiptment and you need a compressor when you do it.)

I looked at my car this morning. I also read what was in the bently manual.)

The mentioned for P-bleeding to clamp the hose and presurize to 14-15 psi. A good tip was to suck out the fluid out of the resovoiur first with a syringe. (This would help remove any sediment and other contaminants that might be in the resoviour getting into the system) They mentioned to hold the pedal to the floor while flushing and I think then pumping it 12 times. (My guess is that this would help get all the old fluid out of the master cylinder that otherwise might get trapped.)

Kurt, thanks again for lending me your wrench. I found a 7mm 6pt box end wrench at sears on sunday. Also a deep socket. The one of the valves was pretty tight but now that the car is getting regulat service i don't think that will be an issue.

A few new questions: You can shoot me because I could probably go look.
Is there an adjustment on the brake pedal arm that adjusts how far it comes back? I ask because with use the brakes are stiffer today but there is play when the pedal returns back by the spring.

Fact or fiction: Can the rotors be turned or do they have to be replaced?

The tech inspector was Kevin (I was way off), but I think it was Kurt that mentioned something about my seat.

Packing a CV Joint: Kevin mentioned that my right driveshaft joints probably need to be repacked. Both sides were replaced about 2 years ago. The came lubed as a rebuilt unit. I have some grease. Do I just pack it again like a wheel bearing?

I was hearing some noise back there. I was thinking rear wheel bearing, but it might have been this. Pari I think you may have asked me about a simular noise and I think you mentioned the same comment from your inspection.

[type954]

not sure about the adjustment "back" but there is an adjustment of how far you push in the pedal before it starts touching the piston in the master cylinder. i think that is called "free play". reference how far "back" the pedal goes, there is probably a stop in the pedal assembly ("back" meaning towards the driver?)