InTech Trailer Owners - Favorite Options? Thoughts?

[thelittlemrs]

Well, we have come full circle and BikePump is likely going to order an InTech 28 brand new. Any favorite options? Power or manual awning? Loading lights? Tips for ordering brand new from them?

[Trak Ratt]

Optional sized wheels and tyres for most make sense. Power tong jack, non skid floor covering? Why would you want wind your awning open and closed if power is an option?

[BikePump]

does anyone have loading lights on their trailer? its one option that sounds nice but not sure how useful

[cmartin]

My car came with them but you can never have enough light.

[N0tt0N]

These "Loaded" Lights? The pole is extra, apparently:
http://hydrotunes.net/marineaudio/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/DSC_1089.jpg

You'll also need some SFW hospitality as well:
http://www.intechtrailers.com/images/home-slides/custom-industrial-stage-trailer.png

And something to demonstrate your true skills!
http://www.intechtrailers.com/images/galleries/2889-Custom_Motorsports-Kitchen-42/1.JPG

Now all you need is something to tow the car with!

Nice stuff! Congratulations!

[cmartin]

Thats good, I like where this is headed. I like the grill and would add a salamander. For the early mornings you need an espresso machine, dual boiler of course. And dont skimp on the grinder, the burs are never big enough.

[BikePump]

Totally baller I love it

[Der ABT]

Spread axel of its an option
Ramp extensions....usually cheaper to get it from the factory than race ramps.
E track everywhere
Couple extra d rings for bike or cart or what ever else you will carry,
Slide out for the generator
Loading lights are fine but not necessary...plenty of cheap options like headlights or a flashlight...or led add ons.
Step down is nice for the door
Def power tounge jack....love mine

[HoodPin]

Get underfloor storage boxes if available.

Increased roof height and insulation are cheap when done during build.

Get a winch; you'll be glad you have it when you need. Mine is mounted in front most underfloor storage box.

Mount the spare tires outside if you can. I had a post made to mount 2 on the front of my trailer. Also get a Camco trailer tire changing ramp and X style lug wrench. Make them accessible even when the trailer is loaded. Trust me...you will get a flat one day.

Opt for heaviest axles you can afford. 6K lb with 8-lug wheels on mine, with E-rated tires. Lesser rated tires will be dicey if one blows while trailer is loaded. If 2 blow, you'll be glad you had 2 spares. I also keep a 10K lb bottle jack in the same compartment as the winch, in case you can't use the Camco ramp.

Manual canopy is fine for me, versus more costly motorized versions. Also see if you can install canopy to work over your side entry door. Depends on roof height, door height, etc. Sometimes you don't have a choice.

Get power cable that DOES NOT have to be fed out through a hole in the floor. I modded my trailer with a marine outlet outside, and now stow the cable in the outside compartment. Consider 50amp cable if possible. I have adapters to step down (& up) between 50, 30, and 15 amp connections. I also have a length of 30 amp extension cord if 50 amp doesn't reach.

Generator is nice, but built-ins are expensive. I use the compartment for gear storage, and have a portable generator I can bring along if location doesn't have power available.

Also worth considering is a driver side escape door. Bad backs, weight, etc. can be an issue when trying to climb in/out of the car loaded in the trailer.

[Paddy]

I looked at an InTech, but decided on a nice new United from Trailer Enterprises out of Maryland. Here are the specs and cost $15K less than the InTech, but I also have a F250 diesel so weight wasn't an issue for me.

http://trailerenterprises.com/

Specs:

2014 stage iii race trailer
· 8.5' wide x 24' long (21' 4" usable floor) x 6' 6" interior height (6' 5" door height clearance)
· gvwr: 9,990 lb
· empty weight: 5,380 LB
· color: Silver metallic screwless exterior
· axle -
· (2) dexter 5,200 lb independent torsion suspension axles
· electric brakes on all wheels
· e-z® lube hubs
· tires -
· st225/75r15e 10-ply radial tires
· nitrofill tires (nitrogen)
· 6-lug 15” aluminum wheels (clear coated)
· chrome center caps w/ removable plug
· chrome lug nuts
· hitch -
· 7-way rv molded plug
· 2-5/16" coupler
· 5k tongue jack
· safety chains
· breakaway kit w/ charger
· frame -
· 4-1/2" skid roller wheels welded on rear undercarriage (pair)
· (2) spare tire wells in floor
· winch mount plate under floor - front center
· steel uni-body construction
· triple-tube a-frame tongue - 48” clearance to center-ball
· 6" doubled (welded together) i-beam main frame rails
· 16" on-center floor cross members
· 16" on-center wall posts
· 16" on-center roof bows
· undercoating on lower frame
· vents -
· front roof vent braced & wired for a/c
· rear non-powered roof vent
· interior -
· white vinyl ceiling w/ angled cove edges
· insulated ceiling
· blocks between wall posts to close off exterior bottom of sidewalls
· 11/32" white vinyl board interior walls
· black marine-grade carpet protective wainscoting 3' up on interior walls
· real black raised rubber-coin flooring
· 3/4" plywood subfloor
· aluminum interior transition flap w/ hinge for ramp door (hinge cover)
· (4) heavy duty recessed d-rings on floor
· (2) rows of recessed e-track on floor - 60” apart on centers
· (2) 4’ rows of recessed e-track on road side wall behind base cabinet at 12" & 30" above floor
· 12 volt electrical -
· (6) 12 volt l.e.d. 18-diode 3" round recessed dome lights in ceiling w/ wall switch at side door
· (2) 12 volt l.e.d. 18-diode 3" round recessed dome lights under overhead cabinet
· (4) 12 volt l.e.d. 18-diode 3" round recessed loading lights in sidewalls w/ wall switch at rear
· 12-volt l.e.d. Loading lights (pair) on rear header w/ wall switch on curb side at rear
· 12-volt receptacle - cigarette lighter in wall plate above work bench
· carbon-monoxide detector (battery operated)
· (2) pairs of l.e.d. Tail lights w/ chrome trim rings
· l.e.d. Back-up lights w/ chrome trim rings
· midship amber l.e.d. Turn signals (pair)
· l.e.d. Clearance lights
· exterior -
· .030 smooth aluminum exterior
· epoxy glued exterior panels (screwless exterior)
· 24” aluminum tread plate stone guard
· one-piece aluminum seamless roof
· luan reinforcement lining under entire roof sheet
· cast aluminum upper front corners
· polished aluminum front vertical corners
· polished aluminum radius front top
· polished aluminum rear corners & header
· 3” aluminum top rail
· 4" aluminum bottom rail
· spread axles w/ individual aluminum fender flares
· weather guard coating on fasteners
· door -
· 36" wide x 30" high generator door (vented)
· 48" x 72” rv-style side door w/ flush rv lock & deadbolt
· aluminum door hold-back
· 12-volt lighted grab handle behind door
· beavertailed floor for e-z loading - 4’ long / 3” drop beavertail
· ramp rear door w/ spring assist, 3,000 lb load capacity
· 95-3/4" wide x 77" high ramp door opening
· (2) stainless steel recessed camlocks in rear ramp door
· aluminum grab handles on ramp door
· low-car package - 4' all aluminum end flap on ramp door w/ 4" rubber bumper spacers
· cabinets -
· aluminum cabinet package across front wall - 36” high x 28” deep “l”-shaped base cabinet, 16” tall x 16” deep straight overhead cabinet, & 24” wide wardrobe w/ clothes rod
· base cabinet left center door raised for future winch cable mouse hole
· mill finish aluminum work bench top
· 110 volt electrical -
· (3) recessed double tube fluorescent lights in ceiling
· (2) 3-way wall switches for fluorescent lights, (1) behind side door & (1) curb side at rear
· (7) interior duplex receptacles
· (1) exterior gfi receptacle
· (2) 500 watt quartz lights, recessed on curb side between side door & rear
· wall switch for curb side quartz lights, behind side door
· 50 amp electrical panel
· 50 amp exterior motor base plug, on front stone guard
· 50 amp rv power cord - 25' long w/ twist-lock plug
· Manual awning
· warranty -
· 5 year limited manufacturer's warranty
· 25 year limited floor plywood warranty
· freight from bristol, in to hagerstown, md included

[arob]

Nobody's mentioned carpeting on the walls? :)

Everything else is pretty much covered.

I plan on having my power modified just like Tony's. It's a PITA getting plugged in at paddock if you roll up at night.

[John]

Bowling alley is a nice option. You can probably save some money on it by providing your own pin monkeys.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6t8pYPGlITg

[racer]

HVAC? Sleeping area? Where will the de-briefing be done with all the data acquisition and the driver coach? I smell Gooseneck! :p I presume the current truck will be sold and an F550 Dually is on order?

[mlytle]

I would get the optional 24ft length instead of 28. 24 is plenty of space, and that extra 4ft of length really adds to the pita maneuvering and place to park factors.

I have a 26 behind a diesel pu. Wish I had a 24.

[N Fotouhi]

I spend a lot of time specing and pricing Intech and ATC before I bought my used trailer. I bought used because I did not want to take the as large of a resale loss, figuring I may not be in physical shape to go with a dedicated track car for long.

My first thought is do not get a 28 unless you are willing to upgrade to at least a LWB 3/4 T truck

Trailer wise, I think TP and Patrick have covered it. I would add Insulated walls and ceiling, 2 A/C units, 50 amp box, a large enough generator to run at least one A/C at a place like WG where there are no outlets in the regular paddock. Escape door. Raised floor or low boxed wheel to allow opening the car door, even with a winch

[BikePump]

We have gone back-and-forth on the length and really want to be able to have gear and a pit bike and bicycles all loaded in there and still be able to have access to the cabinets as needed. I know us and we will likely carry a lot of stuff that would make it very tight in a 24

[N Fotouhi]

We have gone back-and-forth on the length and really want to be able to have gear and a pit bike and bicycles all loaded in there and still be able to have access to the cabinets as needed. I know us and we will likely carry a lot of stuff that would make it very tight in a 24

The problem is not getting a 28. VG considers this RL mentality, and perhaps he is correct, but I would not pull a 28 with a 1/2 T truck.

I priced 34 gooseneck, and planned to use the front for tire rack. With a short bed truck, you need a tapered front. Consider that if you building one

[arob]

Ugh..missed the tow vehicle information. I would not pull an enclosed _______ with a 1/2T truck. Go F250/2500.

And you'll want a 28. Trust me, with loading stuff for two people, a 24' WILL be tight.

[TurboPooch]

All advice so far is good. You've seen my trailer and I'm very happy with it. It actually is 28' V-nose with cabinets up front which actually is like a 24" inside. I also like the smooth non-riveted panels on the outside. No ugly streaks from oxidation running down the side. One thing not mentioned so far is opt for an extended tongue. A V-nose has this already due to it's construction but the extended tongue makes backing up so much easier. The only thing I didn't do that I wish I would have was spec a winch box in the floor in front of the nose of the car. I mounted mine on the plate at the front inside the cabinets with a hole for the cable to come out under the cabinets. Out of sight but a pain having the cable exposed to trip over in the dark when the car is loaded. As far as loading lights, the package I spec'd came with them but I told them not to mount them on the outside of the trailer. In four years I have never needed any light on the outside of the trailer for loading.

Another +2 on Trailer Enterprises. Great family and very honest. Ask for Lyndon.

[HoodPin]

If towing with a pickup, I wonder what the load rating of a 1/2 ton pickup would be for a gooseneck trailer. I have to believe that even a 1/2 truck can tow more via a gooseneck versus bumper hitch. If that's a possibility, then maneuverability improves quite a bit. Plus you get a bit of extra storage in the mezzanine.

If a gooseneck is out of the question, than I agree with the other comments that a 1/2 ton pickup will be strained with a 28-footer. I have a 26-footer which I tow behind my 3/4 ton Suburban, which has beefed up rear suspension, 8.1L big block, and on its 3rd tranny (though this one is a beefed up rebuild). I have to say that my well loaded 26-footer is probably at the very limit of my truck.

[Der ABT]

Shoulda gotten an excursion tony hahaha..


I'm towing a 26ft haulmark steel....v10 excursion. ....added a trans cooler and use a bluetooth obd and the torque app to monitor.
Tows slow but great...at highway speed it's fine.....Hills suck

26 has L cabinets with generator compartment, tool chest and motorcycle fit in there with plenty of room. Probably could squeeze in a golf cart but then bike wouldn't fit

Definately want a load distribution hitch.

Agree with Steve on the extended tounge.

I believe Antonio has a 26ft vnose he tows with an ecoboost f150.....Tows like it's not there

For loading I just bulged down some 2×6 to raise the drivers side door so it can open above the fenders...makes loading much easier

[vranko]

These "Loaded" Lights? The pole is extra, apparently:

BYOP! 53965

http://hydrotunes.net/marineaudio/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/DSC_1089.jpg
[/QUOTE]

[N0tt0N]

You have to appreciate a well equipped trailer

[Paddy]

All advice so far is good. You've seen my trailer and I'm very happy with it. It actually is 28' V-nose with cabinets up front which actually is like a 24" inside. I also like the smooth non-riveted panels on the outside. No ugly streaks from oxidation running down the side. One thing not mentioned so far is opt for an extended tongue. A V-nose has this already due to it's construction but the extended tongue makes backing up so much easier. The only thing I didn't do that I wish I would have was spec a winch box in the floor in front of the nose of the car. I mounted mine on the plate at the front inside the cabinets with a hole for the cable to come out under the cabinets. Out of sight but a pain having the cable exposed to trip over in the dark when the car is loaded. As far as loading lights, the package I spec'd came with them but I told them not to mount them on the outside of the trailer. In four years I have never needed any light on the outside of the trailer for loading.

Another +2 on Trailer Enterprises. Great family and very honest. Ask for Lyndon.

Yes, I worked with Lyndon and his mother. Great family owned operation, they're servicing my trailer in two weeks and adding heat and A/C.

Also, don't forget to factor in a nice sway controller. I've been using a Curt weight distribution w/ sway control with my setup and it's been rock solid.

https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distribution/Curt/C17501.html

[Nerfbar]

You have to appreciate a well equipped trailer

Also well squared away. Take a look at Eric S's.

[BikePump]

We will be getting an extended tongue. The rating on the new truck is 12500 and with a 4000 pound trailer and 3000 pound car we should be well well below that. I did spec the winch in bedded in the floor that was one of those things that I thought was critical to

[mlytle]

We will be getting an extended tongue. The rating on the new truck is 12500 and with a 4000 pound trailer and 3000 pound car we should be well well below that. I did spec the winch in bedded in the floor that was one of those things that I thought was critical to

LOL..and then add 2000lbs of tires, tools, pit bike, luggage, people, spares, food, air conditioner units, power cords, more gas, etc, etc, etc.

not kidding. if you think you are good to go at 7k lbs, you are dreaming...:D

my 5k trailer and 2.5k car somehow weight 10k enr track......

[Der ABT]

With the new trucks 9.5 to 10k is no issue... brakes and suspension have come a little ways

Or just fill the spares with helium.....saves like 4000

[Chopper Dropper]

With the new trucks 9.5 to 10k is no issue... brakes and suspension have come a little ways

Or just fill the spares with helium.....saves like 4000

Fill with Helium and get the CIs to take a lungfull before meetings?
Dirk

[arob]

LOL..and then add 2000lbs of tires, tools, pit bike, luggage, people, spares, food, air conditioner units, power cords, more gas, etc, etc, etc.

not kidding. if you think you are good to go at 7k lbs, you are dreaming...:D

my 5k trailer and 2.5k car somehow weight 10k enr track......

THIS. Shit adds up. Seriously.

[ausgeflippt951]

You're probably fine weight-wise. These new trucks are so much better than the old ones. Keep your trailer brakes serviced and use a weight distributing hitch and I'll bet it'll be pretty good. With modern technology, our tow vehicles are far more capable than their ratings suggest. In real world use, my old '94 Chevy turbo diesel 1/2 ton couldn't hold a candle to how our 2014 Durango tows, yet the Durango has a shorter wheelbase and a lower tow rating (by something like 2k lbs).

I like the gooseneck idea.


Funny sidebar: I was chatting with a couple (American) friends of mine who race out in Europe. We were all discussing how amusing it is that Europeans won't even think twice before maxing out the tow capacity (we've all seen the campers pulled by VW Polos) yet Americans are terrified of towing even half of the rating.

Sure, roads/speed limits/drivers are different btwn Europe and America. blah blah blah

http://themustangsource.com/forums/attachments/f637/60279d1215137211-trailer-hitches-mustang-w116tow.jpg