VA safety inspection will pass MD too?

[88carrera]

Hi everyone:

I have given up getting snow tires for my only car 996TT and I'm now looking at a cheap daily diver for winter.

There are hardly any cars on Craigslist that are already MD inspected for sale. However VA inspected cars are plentiful and are mentioned frequently in the ads.

If I find a VA car that just passed inspection, would that car hopefully pass MD inspection too? I assume VA checks for frame and floor pan rust, shocks, brakes, tires as the major safety stuff.

Finally should I stay away from automatics and look for manuals if the car has high mileage (200k+)

[trytryagain]

Virginia checks lights, brakes and tires, plus obvious windshield cracks, noisy mufflers that would indicate an exhaust leak, windshield wiper function and blade integrity. Don't think they have ever checked my shocks or frame/body rust conditions. They might flunk a car on rust, but it would need to be pretty extreme.

[SilverStreak]

I've seen some real piles of sh!t driving around Virginia. I don't spend much time in MD to see if there are any similar cars, or what's left of them, on the road.

[Jazzbass]

MD inspection is way more stringent than VA. MD inspecting is a full 1 hour put-it-on-a-lift-and-look-at-everything kind of thing, where VA inspection is a 10 minute do-all-the-lights-work-and-are-the-tires-bald sort of thing. A cheap car that has passed inspection in VA is FAR from guaranteed to pass inspection in MD.

[88carrera]

Thanks guys

[Chopper Dropper]

I know MD check rotor thickness, pads, even had my 911 fail for a small steering wheel. MD inspection is only once, and when car trades, not yearly, but liable for inspections if ticketed by the constabulary for lights/noise etc.
Dirk

[Patrick3000]

Change your search parameters, try something like "Maryland Inspected" under Baltimore CL

Put 4 snow tires from tire rack on any of these and you should get through a DC winter

https://baltimore.craigslist.org/cto/5894864055.html

https://baltimore.craigslist.org/ctd/5904439341.html

https://baltimore.craigslist.org/cto/5884950354.html

https://baltimore.craigslist.org/cto/5891568307.html

https://baltimore.craigslist.org/cto/5883852921.html

[86911TLCAB]

va will also look for floor pan issues and leaking shocks...usually it just depends on the inspector...

[RV4Flyer]

Bottom line is VA inspection is pretty much a simple drive through inspection whereas MD inspection is very in depth and much more difficult to pass. You will find few if any VA dealerships will guarentee MD inspection on used cars so that should tell you something. This is the reason it is so difficult to find inexpensive used cars in MD. Typically cheap used cars require quite a bit of investment to get them through MD inspection.

I have been sucessful over the years in purchasing used cars from individuals to have them put it through MD inspection as part of the purchase. This accomplishes two things. First, the car must have a tag on it to put it through MD inspection which requires one of three things. The seller lets you drive it on their tags (which I would never do as a seller), you put tags from another vehicle on the car which is illegal, or the seller gets the car to the inspection station for you. The second thing it accomplishes is no financial surprises for the car repairs to get it to pass the inspection.

My understanding is that in MD the dealer is required to put it through inspection in order to sell it on their lot but individual sellers are not.

[racer]

my va inspectors always come back with brake pad thickness info fwiw. along with about 15 other checklist items.

Maybe because VA does inspections every year, there is less chance of big problems to develop, whereas MD inspections can become infrequent, depending how often the car changes hands...

[BlackTalon]

MD inspection >>>>> VA inspection

They check a lot more stuff, and look at it more closely. If you live in MD are are looking to buy a cheap car, a valid VA inspection does not indicate there will be no issues getting it inspected in MD.

[racer]

Virginia: http://www.vsp.state.va.us/Safety.shtm#InspectionProgram


Each inspection consists of the following items – for further details consult the "Official Annual Motor Vehicle Inspection Manual (http://lis.virginia.gov/cgi-bin/legp604.exe?000+reg+TOC19030.HTM#C0070)": 1. - REMOVE OLD INSPECTION STICKER.
2. - DRIVE VEHICLE INTO INSPECTION LANE.
3. - INSPECT BRAKES FOR:


Worn, damaged or missing parts.
Worn, contaminated or defective linings or drums.
Leakage in system and proper fluid level.
Worn, contaminated or defective disc pads or disc rotors.
(NOTE: A minimum of two wheels and drums must be removed from each vehicle at the time of inspection. Consult the “Official Motor Vehicle Safety Inspection Manual” for exceptions.)

4. - INSPECT PARKING BRAKE FOR:


Broken or missing parts.
Proper adjustment.
Standard factory equipment or equivalent.

5. - INSPECT HEADLIGHTS FOR:


Approved type, aim and output.
Condition of lamps, lenses, wiring and switch.
High beam indicator.

6. - INSPECT OTHER LIGHTS FOR:


Approved type, proper bulbs, and condition of lenses, wiring and switch.
Aim of fog and driving lamps.
Illumination of all lamps and proper color of lenses.
(NOTE: Every vehicle must have a rear lamp showing a red light to the rear, a white light illuminating the rear license plate; vehicles over 7 feet wide or extending 4 inches or more beyond the front fender extremes must be equipped with approved clearance lamps and reflex reflectors. (Include load when measuring.)

7. – INSPECT SIGNAL DEVICE FOR:


Approved type, proper bulbs, and condition of lenses, wiring and switch.
Correct operation of device.
Illumination of all lamps and proper lens color.

8. – INSPECT STEERING & SUSPENSION FOR:
(Jack up front end as shown in “Official Motor Vehicle Safety Inspection Manual”.)


Wear in bushings, kingpins, ball joints, wheel bearings and tie rod ends.
Looseness of gear box on frame, condition of drag link and steering arm.
Play in steering wheel; leakage of power steering fluid in the system.
Wheel alignment and axle alignment.
Broken coil springs, spring leaves and worn shackles.
Shock absorbers.
Broken or weakened frame.
Broken or missing engine mounts.
Lift blocks.

9. – INSPECT TIRES, WHEELS & RIMS FOR:


Condition of tires including tread depth.
Mixing radials and bias ply tires.
Wheels that are cracked or damaged so as to affect safe operation.

10. – INSPECT MIRRORS FOR:


Rigidity of mounting.
Condition of reflecting surface.
Check for road visibility 200 feet to the rear. (Truck mirrors must extend at least halfway beyond edge of body.)

11. – INSPECT HORN FOR:


Electrical connections, mounting and horn button.
Emits sound audible for a minimum of 200 feet.

12. – INSPECT WINDSHIELD AND OTHER GLASS FOR:


Approved type safety glass.
Cloudiness, distortion or other obstruction to vision.
Cracked, scratched or broken glass.
ALL UNAUTHORIZED STICKERS MUST BE REMOVED.
Sun shading material on windshield displaying words, lettering, numbers or pictures that does not extend below the AS-1 line is permitted. In the absence of an AS-1 line, sun shading material on the windshield displaying words, lettering, numbers or pictures cannot extend more than three inches downward from the top of the windshield, unless authorized by the Virginia Department of Motor Vehicles and indicated on the vehicle registration.
Operation of left front door glass.

13. – INSPECT WINDSHIELD WIPER/DEFROSTER FOR:


Operating condition.
Condition of wiper blades.

14. – INSPECT EXHAUST SYSTEM FOR:


Exhaust line: manifold, gaskets, pipes, mufflers, connections, etc.
Leakage of gases at any point from engine to point discharged from system.

15. – INSPECT REAR LICENSE PLATE FOR:


Illumination of rear plate.

16. – INSPECT HOOD AND AREA UNDER THE HOOD FOR:


Operating condition of hood latch.
Presence of emissions system; evidence that any essential parts have been removed, rendered inoperative or disconnected.
Fluid levels that are below the proper level:
(a) Brake fluid.
(b) Power steering fluid.
Power steering belt; proper tension, wear or absence of belt.

17. – INSPECT AIR POLLUTION CONTROL SYSTEM OF 1973 AND SUBSEQUENT MODELS FOR:


Installation.
No parts removed, disconnected or rendered inoperable.
(NOTE: This includes the catalytic converter and the fuel tank filler pipe.)

18. – INSPECT DRIVER’S SEAT FOR:


Anchorage.
Location.
Condition.

19. – INSPECT SEAT BELTS FOR:


Approved type.
Installation.
Condition.

20. – INSPECT AIR BAG AND AIRBAG READINESS LIGHT FOR:


Any defects in the air bag system noted by the air bag readiness light, or otherwise indicated; or
The air bag has been deployed and has not been replaced (and is not deactivated because of a medical or other exemption and a notice is posted to indicate that it has been deactivated); or
Any part of the air bag system has been removed from the vehicle; or
If the air bag indicator fails to light or stays on continuously.

21. – INSPECT DOORS AT THE RIGHT & LEFT SIDE OF THE DRIVER’S SEAT FOR:


Handle or opening device which will permit the opening of the door from the outside and inside of the vehicle.
Latching system which will hold door in its proper closed position.

22. – INSPECT FUEL SYSTEM FOR:


Any part that is not securely fastened.
Liquid fuel leakage.
Fuel tank filler cap for presence.

23. – INSPECT FLOOR PAN FOR:


Holes which allow exhaust gases to enter occupant compartment.
Conditions which create a hazard to the occupants.

24. – ISSUE STICKER:


If approved, place completed approval sticker on the vehicle and give the receipt of certificate to the operator.
ALL DEFECTS MUST BE CORRECTED AND THE VEHICLE REINSPECTED WITHIN 15 DAYS. THE DRIVER MAY BE SUBJECT TO RECEIVING A TRAFFIC SUMMONS FOR ANY DEFECT STILL PRESENT WHEN THE VEHICLE IS OPERATED ON THE HIGHWAY.

(NOTE: The validity period of the rejection sticker shall include fifteen (15) days in addition to the day of the inspection.)


Maryland:http://www.mva.maryland.gov/About-MVA/INFO/58000ASE/58000-01T.htm



Vehicles - GVWR Equal to or Less Than 10,000 Pounds
(form #23-21)

• Steering system
• Wheel alignment
• Suspension
• Brake system
• Wheels / tires
• Fuel system
• Exhaust system
• Bumpers
• Fenders
• Lights
• Electrical system
• Mirrors
• Glazing (windows)
• Wipers
• Hood / catches
• Door handle latches
• Floor / trunk pans
• Speedometer / odometer
• Driver seat
• Safety belts
• Motor mounts
• Gear shift indicator
• Universal and CV (constant velocity) joints
• Emissions equipment

[Dr K]

Just goes to show you can't believe everything you read. Every car we have owned that wasn't new when purchased has had esoteric findings on the Maryland inspection subtle suspension issues. It is a very deep and involved inspection. I'd far rather have my car (and every other car on the road) have a reasonable inspection annually than a totally anal inspection just once.

[JmuRiz]

I think the ads are just statements that is is a legal car, should pass inspection when bought and has no major issues, nothing more.

FWIW when I got my S6 I was able to get a 1 year emissions credit because I had the emissions test results from the MD previous owner (taken 1 month before). So if the seller has the emissions report, grab it and it may save you a year.

[Casey914]

We fail cars sold at VA dealerships all the time.

[cmartin]

I did a fair amount of business with an inspector. It was unspoken that he needed to generate $$ for the shop. That usually meant a suspension or headlight alignment. Funny how he didnt grill me on iffy tires or brakes. :)

Take a look at anything you get on a rack and expect something will fail. I dont think I've ever had a car not need at least a bulb. Its a hike but you are welcome at my place if you want a look.

[BillC]

I've never had a MD vehicle inspection that didn't "require" a headlight alignment, regardless of the vehicle's actual condition. :grrr: