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View Full Version : E46 fault codes 227, 228 and intake boot replacement


Jazzbass
01-18-2016, 01:57 PM
So if you've seen my "cheap E46" thread here (http://dorkiphus.net/porsche/showthread.php?t=35676), you've seen that I bought a super high mile questionable maintained 1999 328i. Why? Because I'm an idiot. But that's beside the point.

Because I have the cool Bavarian Technic scan cable, I scanned the car prior to purchase and found the following:

49783

The lambda codes (227 and 288 esp) almost always point to a lean condition in the engine. During inspection of the car, the PO showed me this:

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which matched up with the internet's diagnosis of the problem. Other posters also indicated that I would hear a weird, digital sounding buzzing that was throttle dependent when I drove the car - and sure enough I did. The problem is that air is getting into the intake AFTER the MAF, so that air is unmetered. Unmetered air = lean mixture, as the DME is only injecting enough fuel for the air is knows about (the air that went through the MAF properly).

Happy that the cracked boot was the issue I bought the car, ordered a new boot ($14 from BMW), cleared the codes (and thus the CEL), installed and test drove. The buzzing noise is still there, and within 3 miles the CEL is back on. :grrr:. Another scan shows codes 227 and 228 are back.

So, more investigation. Well, it turns out that there are TWO intakes boots after the MAF and both are susceptible to cracking. You can see them here in this diagram. The first boot boot (3) connects from the MAF to a hard elbow; this is the one I found in the initial inspection and replaced. The second boot (5) connects from the elbow to the throttle body.

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Sure enough, it was cracked as well. This one was $16 and in stock from BMW of Rockville. Sweet! Hopefully I'll just throw this on real quick and problem solved! Here it is in all it's glory:

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"Real quick". Hahahaha. I've said before that "E46s are easy to work on". I am now officially amending that to add the word "usually". Replacing that second boot was a PITFA. Why? Well what should be an easy unclamp-remove-replace-reclamp procedure is complicated by the location of the throttle body in the E46:

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That's it - way back there behind all that shit. The red arrows point to the main throttle body and some secondary intake hose, both of which the new boot must be clamped to. The best part? The clamps that are on there were clearly installed during manufacturing when the engine was out of the car. Meaning the clamps themselves were completely in "f**k you" position for removal. Here you can sort of see the clamps - and this is AFTER I've cut most of the old boot away for access and visibility.

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The red arrow points to the secondary intake clamp (facing backwards, because BMW engineers hate you) and the blue arrow points to where the main intake clamp is (again because the engineers hate you). After some more cutting and a not-insignificant amount of swearing, I got both clamps off and the old boot out:

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Now - HTF is this thing going back in? I had to cut most of the old boot away to get to the clamps. Clearly that's not an option for reinstall. After more swearing and possibly breaking a few things in frustration, I found that the following clamp orientation allowed me to tighten the clamps without pulling the engine. First the secondary intake:

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and then the primary intake:

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Success!!!! Holy shit that was annoying. Fortunately the rest of the intake goes back together quickly and easily and voila! Ready to drive.

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BlackTalon
01-18-2016, 02:09 PM
Nothing an engineer can't figure out! :-)

FWIW had similar issues on the Volvo, and even on the Targa. Some clamps, etc. clearly installed when access was not blocked by a ton of other stuff...

Jazzbass
01-18-2016, 02:12 PM
After reinstall I took the car out for a long drive and everything was perfect. 40 miles - stop and go traffic, highway speeds, etc - everything perfect! No CEL, no codes, and the weird buzzing/chirping sound is gone. Yeah!!! Come home, grab food and my son. "C'mon, you're learning to drive stick. Let's go".

About 15 minutes into the lesson, the CEL comes back on. Damnit!! I had the laptop and BT cable in the car, so I did a scan. Yep - 227 and 228 are back. WTF?

Well, if you were observant in the last picture of the first post, you probably noticed something:

49793

The primary boot and the MAF are not attached correctly. I took this picture AFTER my driving lesson with my son, as I forgotten to take an "after" pic immediate after the reinstall. What happened three things:

1. The bottom of the air box wasn't installed correctly in the big rubber holder underneath it. Because the air box is missing a mounting tab, I attributed it's weird angle to the missing tab and not the misaligned bottom pin.

2. I didn't tighten down the MAF-to-boot clamp tightly enough

3. I was teaching a teenager to drive stick for the first time. Which meant lots of bucking and stalling of the engine.

So I'm pretty sure the MAF-to-boot connection opened itself up during the driving lesson and threw the codes again. Yesterday I pulled the airbox, reinstalled correctly, tightened the clamp properly and tested again. Again 40 miles, again no issues.

Then I took my daughter out on her first manual transmission excursion. 45 minutes of nausea-inducing driving later, still no codes. Crossing fingers, but hopefully this has fixed the problem.

VaSteve
01-18-2016, 02:33 PM
You didn't do the uber fun project of replacing the hoses under the intake. http://blog.bavauto.com/8003/diy-video-replacing-the-bmw-m54-crankcase-ventilation-system/ They sell a kit, the one with the "cold weather kit". You live around here, it's warm enough. Throw that cold weather insulation a way. This was one of the most frustrating automotive experiences I've had (and recall I own a 944). Try and clip two plastic hoses together under the intake where you cannot see it.

VaSteve
01-18-2016, 02:35 PM
That project?

49794

HughA44s
01-19-2016, 11:22 AM
JazzBass,

I was confused by this a bit as I had boot and air leak problems which yielded 0171 and 0174. Also, I recently had issues with these codes which turned out to be a TPS problem. A quick search on e46fanatics shows the following:

P0226 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch C Circuit Range/Performance Problem

P0227 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch C Circuit Low Input

P0228 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch C Circuit High Input

What I found out is that these cars have a Hall Effect TPS on the gas pedal and (one or two mechanical variable restor types on the MAF. More than likely the issue is the mechanical restor type. Having said that, does you car still have the throttle cable? Anyway something to check.

HughA44s
01-19-2016, 11:24 AM
Dumb question: Unplug the connectors to the MAF and the throttle body?

HughA44s
01-19-2016, 11:25 AM
Should be "Did you unplug"

HughA44s
01-19-2016, 11:32 AM
If I remember correctly, some early e46s still had throttle cables.

HughA44s
01-19-2016, 11:34 AM
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=906953&highlight=p0227+cel This may help.

Jazzbass
01-19-2016, 11:41 AM
JazzBass,

I was confused by this a bit as I had boot and air leak problems which yielded 0171 and 0174. Also, I recently had issues with these codes which turned out to be a TPS problem. A quick search on e46fanatics shows the following:

P0226 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch C Circuit Range/Performance Problem

P0227 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch C Circuit Low Input

P0228 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch C Circuit High Input

What I found out is that these cars have a Hall Effect TPS on the gas pedal and (one or two mechanical variable restor types on the MAF. More than likely the issue is the mechanical restor type. Having said that, does you car still have the throttle cable? Anyway something to check.

Yeah, so this is somewhat confusing. I think the issue here is difference between "BMW codes" and "std OBDII trouble codes". I'm not sure of the specifics of why there are two sets (other than to say "because BMW") or what all of the mappings are, but here's a good thread that does some mapping for the codes in question: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1611914-BMW-Fault-Codes-227-228-202-and-203

Because I'm using the BT cable and not a generic OBDII reader, it's giving me the BMW specific codes. So my codes were BMW codes 227 and 228 (not P0227 and P0228), which map to std trouble codes P0171 and P0174 - the same codes you had with the cracked boot. I assume if I had used a generic OBDII reader I'd have gotten P0171 and P0174.

HughA44s
01-19-2016, 12:08 PM
Well that is clear as mud (or some other substance that looks like mud). These boots are a real pain. I understand there are after market single piece boots that are much better. The P0171 and P0174 codes can be hard to clear but if you have confirmed cracks in the boots - that's good. If you keep having problems, it could be on to the DISA, and CCVs - Both of which could be causing these issues. I have been know to drive mine with CEL on (as long as I know it is these codes) for awhile. I also had a smoke test done on mine and found induction leaks in places you not believe.

HughA44s
01-19-2016, 12:10 PM
By the way, I use a generic OBDII reader.