Garage floor coatings

[cmartin]

Looking for options to coat the new garage floor. I used the Rustoleum epoxy kit at the last house and was generally happy but it was lifting and showing wear. Anything better out there for DIY install?

Options that seem to make sense

Rustoleum epoxy kit. Inexpensive but not the best wear from experience

Seal only. not as fancy as epoxy, not sure how it will hold up to oil and wear long term. Several options available.

Rust Bullet urethane. Found some good info on garagejournal but have not seen it. Any using this?

I prefer to keep oil stains to a minimum and like the ability to keep things relatively clean. Not a commercial space but I do like to make noise and am not gentle on the floor.

Thanks for any recommendations and/or experience. There are some new options available since I looked at this last, why are there so many choices?? :twisted:

[Vicegrip]

Is DIY a fixed requ?

[cmartin]

Good question. Purely based on $$ I assumed DIY was my only option. Not against pro install but the cupboard is nearly bare so I'm counting my shekels.

[roundel]

Flooring is such a tough thing to get right. I have the product info for a General Polymers (a Sherwin Williams company) material on my bulletin board in my office. It is called, "Chip Resistant High Build Hangar Industrial Floor" and it is a top shelf system, BUT it is not DIY. The proper install includes shot peening the floor with a blast track and grinding edges to get a good profile, and four coats: Primer, membrane, first top coat, and final top coat. I believe glass beads can be added to reduce slip. The real devil is in the moisture concern. If there is hydrostatic pressure, any system will eventually lift up. You need to have falling temps IIRC to reduce out-gassing during the application or else you will get bubbles. The literature is on my bulletin board and the material is not on my floor because i am afraid of installing a Rolls Royce floor and then having it fail or destroying it.

[HoodPin]

I've done the epoxy, too, with apparently similar results. But it is so dependent upon quality of preparation. I did mine on a fresh concrete floor, after letting it cure/dry for several months. I'm not so sure it works as well on a aged floor with existing stains/contamination/etc.

Even though the upfront cost of inter-locking tiles (like Racedeck) is higher, the more I think about it the more I like it. It installs easily, and is ready to use immediately. If something does damage it, its easy to replace a tile. And you can take it with you when you move. It looks like the cost is around $4-5/SF. And is definitely DIY.

[cmartin]

Thanks gents

But it is so dependent upon quality of preparation. I did mine on a fresh concrete floor, after letting it cure/dry for several months

I did the garage floor in the last house before I moved in, brand new floor. I'm sure I could have done something better but did follow the instructions. There was some lifting in the normal tire areas and other spots were fubar from dropping chunks of metal and I think some chemicals over the years.

Flooring is such a tough thing to get right. I have the product info for a General Polymers

No kidding. One thing I like about the Rust Bullet stuff is you are supposed to be able to recoat later without having to grind off the old stuff. Sales pitch or real world?

A buddy told me to just apply some sealer and be done with it since nothing lasts that long.

[blipshift]

http://dorkiphus.net/porsche/showthread.php?t=30390&highlight=garage

After a few years of use I am starting to see some lifting and chipping in and around the middle bay which gets use daily by the DD, otherwise its held up pretty well. Lessons learned?

-Pay somebody to do it
-Make sure you use the flakes

[Charlie Stylianos]

I just did the basement using Epoxy Coat (http://www.epoxy-coat.com/).

Lifetime warranty, 100% solids at 9mils vs. box store water based @ ~3 mils.

Actually comes out cheaper per ft^3 vs. store bought. Special order via Lowes is cheaper plus no shipping!

Kit includes everything you need. Spike shoes (2x4 with nails duck taped to shoes) are a must and I'd suggest additional roller and brush as they get stiff/unusable as the epoxy starts to set. Maybe some muriatic acid for a deeper etch than the supplied powder.

** Edit: Yes, clean, degrease and etch the s*it out of it prior to application.

[JmuRiz]

I plan to just lay down some sealer to get a sheen to the floor.
I was/am looking at Wolverine Coatings' AcryliSeal 3501
Won't lift and will keep the concrete dust at bay.
I could tint it if I wanted to, but I like the color of concrete (goes well with my paint scheme).

[BlackTalon]

I would stick to commercial-grade products. If a new slab, you can probably prep unless there is a surface profile issue that needs to be dealt with. For a stained/ contaminated slab I would hire a pro. I'm probably biased there though, since we deal with coating system design and failure investigation for commercial/ institutional parking garages.

[Vicegrip]

I have been beating the crap out of the rusto stuff for 10 years now. Some chips and one lift up where the concrete was too smooth. I acid etched the floor the flood rinsed then vacuumed with a wet vac then flood rinsed while scrubbing with a stiff broom then wet vac. I wants to get the PH back to normal and to remove all loose dust particles.

Unlike some other stuff the rusto stuff can be recoated on itself. Getting a bit ratty? Take a day degrease and make it like new.

That said I have been beating the crap out of some top of the line pro stuff at HBL and it is the real deal.

[HoodPin]

.....That said I have been beating the crap out of some top of the line pro stuff at HBL and it is the real deal.

What's the cost/SF of the pro stuff?

[Eplebnista]

I am wrestling with the same issues. There are hundreds of threads on this topic in the "Flooring" forum at www.garagejournal.com. Epoxy is a popular choice but the consensus is that serious floor preparation is essential. Further, the epoxy needs to be a high solids content higher quality product than what you can buy in the big box stores, which are said to be prone to failure. Rust Bullet coating is being used by a lot of folks as it needs comparatively little floor prep but there is no long term user history as this has been in vogue for a little over a year.

Porcelain tile is comparable in cost if you get a real good price on the tile, but DIY install is pretty labor intensive. The result, if done properly, is as close to a maintenance free floor as you can get. Others use commercial grade (VCT) vinyl tile, which is easier to put down and requires less prep, but needs stripping and waxing to keep it in good shape. Unfortunately, a lot of common automotive chemicals will strip the wax right off VCT, which makes it sort of a no go for me.

I think I am either going to go with Rust Bullet and take my chances or porcelain tile if I can get help with putting it down.

I also have three gallons of Legacy Industrial acrylic sealant that I am thinking I am not going to use. I've kind of upgraded my expectations about appearance of the floor since I bought the sealant.

[Vicegrip]

take care in picking the tile and only use epoxy modified grout. I have 70 service bays with tile that is slick and 40 more that can't stay clean. Ether slippery or the dirt grabs. Might be easy to clean the tile but the grout is another issue. The grout lines make sweeping a bear and they grab dirt and oil

[Eric S]

I originally used inferior "epoxy" paint (no mixing should have been a clue), and it lifted the first time I parked on it. The cost, time and mess associated with diamond grinding it off was prohibitive. I went with RaceDeck and really like it. Easy to install, looks good, chemical resistant, damaged tiles easy to replace with spares, easier on knees than concrete, and thermal insulating. Double garage and small work area was about $1,100.

[Trak Ratt]

I etched, washed, etched and air dried for a week. Used high quality epoxy and my floor sucks!!! Kurt and friends knocked a big chip out of it within a month of completion and it been down hill ever since. I really, really really wished I'd just sealed it and moved on. Biggest problem I've had is chipping. Only one section by my lift actually "lifted" the rest is just chips :p

Bottom line; if you actually intend to work in the space, aren't as OCD as Jazz, meticulous as Kurt or have a score of minions just seal it and get on with your life.

[Vicegrip]

Meticulous? Eric poking dust out of rotors into a paper bag with a just right size drill bit is meticulous. (Or is that particular?) Weld slag bumble balls dancing around and dragging stuff by the light end is not good form. Unlike the garage forum regulars I dont wash wax and buff the floor every Friday night either. A clean shiny floor inhibits good work.
One key is film bond strength the other is film strength. The home DIY 2 part stuff will not have the film build and impact resistance of the top line pro stuff. It can have very high bond of done right and the substrate is good. Dont even think about floor paint.

[Trak Ratt]

... Dont even think about floor paint.
True dat, but chips is my down fall!!

[C3PC]

Check with Sherwin Williams, I used their Tile Clad II on two of my floors with no problems. Hot tires will not lift it, the only automotive chemical that I found to damage it is battery acid.

[cmartin]

Good info all, thanks for the insight.

just seal it and get on with your life.

That's where I might end up but I'll try and get some samples of some of the above. I still have some time, floor isnt poured yet but I dont want this to drap on.

the rest is just chips

I wonder if this is more an issue with the concrete or the paint? If the floor wasnt pained would it still chip? Too much water, wrong mix? I dunno concrete, just curious.

[blipshift]

I etched, washed, etched and air dried for a week.

Bottom line; if you actually intend to work in the space, aren't as OCD as Jazz, meticulous as Kurt or have a score of minions just seal it and get on with your life.

^this!

[Vicegrip]

Good info all, thanks for the insight.



That's where I might end up but I'll try and get some samples of some of the above. I still have some time, floor isnt poured yet but I dont want this to drap on.



I wonder if this is more an issue with the concrete or the paint? If the floor wasnt pained would it still chip? Too much water, wrong mix? I dunno concrete, just curious.Drop a good sized chunk for front susp and you will spall almost any concrete surface. I did just that to DR while stripping some 911 bits for Bill Jay's 914 race build and felt bad about it ever since. In the home shop I knocked out a good chunk o floor with a wheel flange and have chipped it from dropped roll bar tubes and the like. dropped hammers, screwdrivers and the like don't bother it.
The high build 1/8 inch + thick kind of high build 100% solids pro stuff can take a hard hit. I have seen rotors fall on the floor from 4 feet and not spall the surface. One down side to the high build stuff is slag burns down into it. the Thin stuff seems to resist this by passing the heat into the concrete without itself burning noticeably. It can and does get dinged up after time which is where being re-coat-able is important. Coated floor is far less work in the long run. Concrete is never "clean" but coated floors sweep and or mop right up. Lay on your back on raw concrete and you will come up dirty. Once coated you can wash up fluid spills completely. Even sealed concrete is not fully sealed and race deck type flooring while easy to install is the worst when you spill something as it runs under the matting. Now you have to pull up the matting to get the spill and have to wash the matting too.

Got the bux? Hire a pro and have a pro non glossy floor installed.

[Trak Ratt]

....
I wonder if this is more an issue with the concrete or the paint? If the floor wasnt pained would it still chip? Too much water, wrong mix? I dunno concrete, just curious.
Chips is my demises, Kurt was 1st but there have been so many more I'd be hard pressed to even find his mark. Most here don't actually work in their "shops" so more important to get something your tyres don't pull up. The actual covering I used works just fine, but like others have said all will chip. And over time look like hell. Search back over the years and you will get the same questions and answers.















I've had a lot of fun over the years at Kurt's expense but it was only one of many. And as inevitable as your daughter dating someone just like you :twisted:

[Nerfbar]

" And as inevitable as your daughter dating someone just like you"

You mean to say there's another one of you?

[BlackTalon]

shudder

[mlytle]

bumping old thread. i am going to do the pro install of epoxy coating on the new floor in my shop.

looking for recommendations (good or bad) on local companies that do this work.

thanks!

[ChaosRogue]

I'm looking too. Good info on this thread so far, but I'd be interested in any updates you guys have.

Thanks!

[BikePump]

Ditto. Doing the barn floor soon

[dnwong]

Ditto. Time to get a group by going? Although I am also considering a DIY kit from my research on the garage journal.

[JmuRiz]

...I also have three gallons of Legacy Industrial acrylic sealant that I am thinking I am not going to use. I've kind of upgraded my expectations about appearance of the floor since I bought the sealant.

Wish i was paying attention a year ago when you posted this. I'm thinking sealer would be best for me...as there will be a lot of hot-tire turning on my floor (afraid of tire pickup) and I like the look of a concrete floor.

[onboost]

I etched, washed, etched and air dried for a week. Used high quality epoxy and my floor sucks!!! :p


^^^ I did the same to my smallish garage under the house..
used for either parking of 1 car, or bench work only. I used the Rustoleum product and it looked and seemed to wear great.. until the dead of winter when it started crunching, raising, and flaking off :shock:

[cmartin]

I used the 100% solids epoxy from [link removed]

Installation was a bit tedious but thats epoxy. Temp and time need to be factored into batch life and time for the next coat. As typical it was more $$ than I wanted but so far its ok. Its only been installed since ~Nov so no long term experience.

This shot is typical, I work in the shop more than I clean up so there is always a mess. The floor cleans up well and has enough texture to not be slippery when wet. The first time I dropped something heavy I didnt want to look, so far so good.

[ChaosRogue]

Ditto. Time to get a group by going? Although I am also considering a DIY kit from my research on the garage journal.

Hey, if we could agree on a top quality product and get a group buy together, I'd be all for it. My garage is 20x25, and I'm planning for a lift, but nothing on the level of a rothaus or Vicegrip, as far as DIY/wrenching.

[onboost]

I used the 100% solids epoxy from [link removed]

Installation was a bit tedious but thats epoxy. Temp and time need to be factored into batch life and time for the next coat. As typical it was more $$ than I wanted but so far its ok.

Looks good and thanks for the link.. obviously I'm in for a do-over. :grrr:
And looking forward to something that will last. Mine didn't even get chemicals, heavy drops, or hot tires.. just raised with the cold weather.

[cmartin]

yikes

I had heaters a fans going to keep the temps up since I was really pushing the lower limits. I previously used the HD rustoleum stuff that chipped and picked up almost right away.

No matter what material/product you use propper prep and temp is critical.

[BlackTalon]

And looking forward to something that will last. Mine didn't even get chemicals, heavy drops, or hot tires.. just raised with the cold weather.Where did the failure occur? Did the top coat separate from the base coat? Did the base coat separate from the primer? Did the primer separate from the slab surface? Did a thin layer of cement paste separate from the underlying slab?

Best to figure out why the failure likely occurred in order to increase the chances of success the second time around.

[onboost]

yikes

I had heaters a fans going to keep the temps up since I was really pushing the lower limits. I previously used the HD rustoleum stuff that chipped and picked up almost right away.

No matter what material/product you use propper prep and temp is critical.

Proper prep was done, wash/scrub rinse etc.. etch rinse some more etc.. as per manufacturers directions. Temp was not an issue.. it was in June. In Jan and Feb it began to left.

Where did the failure occur? Did the top coat separate from the base coat? Did the base coat separate from the primer? Did the primer separate from the slab surface? Did a thin layer of cement paste separate from the underlying slab?

Best to figure out why the failure likely occurred in order to increase the chances of success the second time around.

Had some base separated from primer and some primer separated from slab. No cement past etc.. product seem to fail due to ground temp. No worries, I won't be using that brand again.

[BlackTalon]

Makes me wonder if there may have been excess moisture in the slab when the system was installed.

[Vicegrip]

Primer failure is telling. Might want to do some moisture testing after grinding off the old coating and before installing another one. Prep and control of conditions is 100% key to any and all systems.

I have come to think that the only coating systems that seem to stand up to true shop conditions are the Com installed 1/8 in+ thick build systems. And by Com I don't mean 2 guys and a Franchise branded van I mean the companies that you don't hear of that go around installing com grade systems in real large places you don't tend think about. Stadiums, big shipping warehouses and the like. If your crew breaks out rollers and drill mount mixing paddles you have failed in seeking out the true top of the line coating. A coating that is mixed not in the cans but in a purpose built mixer and then trowed out with notched pushers and allowed to level up. If you can see the surface texture of the concrete telegraph through the coating it is too thin to protect itself and the underlying substrate from shop grade impact.
I don't think the brand and composition of the 2 part systems are as important as the final thickness and need for proper prep.

That said a coated concrete floor is worlds above raw concrete and even the home owner installed systems improve things. Dust and dirt reduction and fluid cleanup improvement from even the most basic coating. Baring systemic failures some chipping and the odd tire pull here and there are cosmetic issues. The floor in my home shop was coated using the least expensive 2 part coating you can get. It has many dings and scars but is still easy to sweep up and mop after 10 years of almost daily wear. It is utilitarian in nature and desired performance and I can't give any recommendations on which polish to use. ;)

[mlytle]

yikes

I had heaters a fans going to keep the temps up since I was really pushing the lower limits. I previously used the HD rustoleum stuff that chipped and picked up almost right away.

No matter what material/product you use propper prep and temp is critical.

in my last shop i used rustoluem epoxy. lots of prep on a new slab. 14years of very hard use building/restoring/fixing cars. all temp ranges. ZERO issues. no chips. no pickups. no lifting. new shop is 3x the size and i don't have the time to do it myself.

Primer failure is telling. Might want to do some moisture testing after grinding off the old coating and before installing another one. Prep and control of conditions is 100% key to any and all systems.

I have come to think that the only coating systems that seem to stand up to true shop conditions are the Com installed 1/8 in+ thick build systems. And by Com I don't mean 2 guys and a Franchise branded van I mean the companies that you don't hear of that go around installing com grade systems in real large places you don't tend think about. Stadiums, big shipping warehouses and the like. If your crew breaks out rollers and drill mount mixing paddles you have failed in seeking out the true top of the line coating. A coating that is mixed not in the cans but in a purpose built mixer and then trowed out with notched pushers and allowed to level up. If you can see the surface texture of the concrete telegraph through the coating it is too thin to protect itself and the underlying substrate from shop grade impact.
I don't think the brand and composition of the 2 part systems are as important as the final thickness and need for proper prep.

That said a coated concrete floor is worlds above raw concrete and even the home owner installed systems improve things. Dust and dirt reduction and fluid cleanup improvement from even the most basic coating. Baring systemic failures some chipping and the odd tire pull here and there are cosmetic issues. The floor in my home shop was coated using the least expensive 2 part coating you can get. It has many dings and scars but is still easy to sweep up and mop after 10 years of almost daily wear. It is utilitarian in nature and desired performance and I can't give any recommendations on which polish to use. ;)

good info. suggestions on one of those commercial installers?

[Vicegrip]

One example. Not a recommendation just an example of one company that offers true full industrial floor coating work.

http://hooverwells.com/Capabilities.aspx

A description of the kinds of systems, their pros and cons, where they might be employed and why.

http://hooverwells.com/rezstone/General_Information/General.pdf

The silica and quartz high build broadcast systems are no excuse, no BS, forklift warehouse grade tough. Coatings and broadcast systems are not the same thing but for thickness.
Note where it states "Coatings work well for both new and old concrete, but are better suited for off-aisle areas and where the concrete has nominal oil saturation. If a concrete surface can be damaged, the same damage will occur to these systems". This is a company that offers the noted systems and is only pointing out the strengths and weaknesses of the system not a breathless sales pitch of a better chemical. This is where you need to go into the broadcast systems to get into the "Drop hard and or heavy things without damaging the floor" realm. Some companies have flake based high build systems. They offer more than the standard roll on coatings do but not quite the impact resistance of the silica or quartz based systems.

[cmartin]

That said a coated concrete floor is worlds above raw concrete and even the home owner installed systems improve things. Dust and dirt reduction and fluid cleanup improvement from even the most basic coating. Baring systemic failures some chipping and the odd tire pull here and there are cosmetic issues. The floor in my home shop was coated using the least expensive 2 part coating you can get. It has many dings and scars but is still easy to sweep up and mop after 10 years of almost daily wear. It is utilitarian in nature and desired performance and I can't give any recommendations on which polish to use. ;)

Great point. I work in my garage and the easy cleanup was key. I've worked in enough places with black, stained concrete to know what a pain it is to find a dropped fastener or clip on a dirty floor. Not the end of the world but something I prefer to work around. My initial plan was to seal the floor and not worry about epoxy. After construction my floor needed some work and knowing how I think I couldnt deal with seeing the patches in a clear sealer for years.

After I looked into this more I saw the coating thickness was key too. The water based epoxy at the lower price point is completely different than the smelly, chemical stuff at x5 the starting price. At the end of the day everyone has different priorities, I'm glad there are options.

[ruffyz]

Has anyone considered polished concrete as an alternative to sealing or painting?

[BlackTalon]

Has anyone considered polished concrete as an alternative to sealing or painting?Yes, people have. Surf around on Garage Journal.

For me personally I would go with a penetrating sealer like a silane or siloxane instead, even though it would not be as broom-friendly as a system that forms a surface film.

[N0tt0N]

I seriously considered it. Some of the stained/acid-etched and polished floors are amazing.

[Vicegrip]

I seriously considered it. Some of the stained/acid-etched and polished floors are amazing.Agree on the polished flooring and the artistic looking things you can do. Living with polished concrete on the other hand not so much. Slick when dusty or wet and vulnerable to chemical damage and staining unless properly seal/coated.

[edevinney]

I would love a fancy polymer floor but am leery of anything I could afford :) I drop stuff, I grind and weld, and I really, really don't want to risk a coating failure.

We'll have polished and sealed concrete floors in the house, but the garage will have a hard troweled finish and as Dave suggested, a silane-siloxane sealer. There are a couple of hydrophobic types that should resist oil stains.

[mlytle]

anyone used this stuff? local company installs it.

https://www.hpspartacote.com/polyaspartic-coating-systems/

[BlackTalon]

anyone used this stuff? local company installs it.

https://www.hpspartacote.com/polyaspartic-coating-systems/Which one? There are 7 different coating systems shown there.

Laticrete is a well-known manufacturer in the commercial world for products that can be incorporated into floor tile systems, including setting beds. I have not seen one of their coating systems before, though. Their products tend to be available through building supply houses vs controlled distribution to 'certified' installers. Not sure if that is the case of not for their floor coating systems though.

One of the nice things about that company is you can call and talk to a tech rep and get recommendations for the specific system configuration/ layers that would work best for the intended application. Whatever you do, don't base decisions on the specific system selection/ composition on what a few guys on a local car forum guess would be the best.

[mlytle]

lol....what? everyone on the interwebs isn't an expert? :-)

sorry, it was the spartacote flex system. there is local company with good reviews that is sparta certified installer. going out to talk with them on saturday.

[BlackTalon]

lol....what? everyone on the interwebs isn't an expert? :-)

sorry, it was the spartacote flex system. there is local company with good reviews that is sparta certified installer. going out to talk with them on saturday.Looks like the Spartacote Quartz or Diamond Topp would be the durable systems that could stand up to a lot of torque from turning wheels, equipment being rolled around, tools dropped, etc. I could not see specifying the Guard or Chip systems for any commercial coating project we would design.

[onboost]

Makes me wonder if there may have been excess moisture in the slab when the system was installed.

Primer failure is telling. Might want to do some moisture testing after grinding off the old coating and before installing another one. Prep and control of conditions is 100% key to any and all systems.
;)

Slab is waaay old.. uhhhh 1930ish? :shock:
Its off the basement under the house.. primarily just to park in, or do some bench work on sub-components. Not enough room for anything else.

Other stuff gets done in the larger detached garage in back.

[N0tt0N]

Good luck. Small garages are certainly a challenge! Yours looks quite sharp!

[onboost]

Thx Martin..
its a mess currently with lots of bench top projects going on! There has not been a car parked inside since finished!

[RunningonMT]

For me personally I would go with a penetrating sealer like a silane or siloxane instead, even though it would not be as broom-friendly as a system that forms a surface film.

Be careful with using penetrating sealers like siloxanes on garage floors. Many of these are intended as waterproofing systems and provide this characteristic by shifting the surface energy of the concrete to prevent water from soaking into the surface (think of water beading up on a newly waxed car). Frequently, good waterproofing materials (hydrophobic) are good attractors for oil based materials (oleophillic). Not a good situation of our cars, many of whom like to leave their personal mark on the garage floor!

[BlackTalon]

Uhm, okay... So what are you saying, exactly? They will keep water from absorbing but will readily absorb oils?

This is pretty standard stuff for application on parking garage decks that do not get waterproofed, as well as concrete-paved bridges. I am happy to get (re)educated here, as I still needs some continuing ed hours...

[Das Mike.]

I went with Rustoleum Epoxyshield Professional. I bought it off Amazon. I used 2 kits for my 2 car garage; one for each coat. It says you only need one coat, but I think you really need two. I wouldn't have been happy with just the one. It has stood up great to all the abuse. It's been several years and still no peeling. I decided to leave out the "confetti," as it's easier to find tiny things when I drop them. Although, it does get slick when wet.

[dnwong]

I went with Rustoleum Epoxyshield Professional. I bought it off Amazon. I used 2 kits for my 2 car garage; one for each coat. It says you only need one coat, but I think you really need two. I wouldn't have been happy with just the one. It has stood up great to all the abuse. It's been several years and still no peeling. I decided to leave out the "confetti," as it's easier to find tiny things when I drop them. Although, it does get slick when wet.

How did you prep the floor. Did you grind or just acid etch?

[Der ABT]

Anyone try this new one yet?
http://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/rocksolid/garage-floor-kits/polycuramine-metallic-garage-coat-kit

[Das Mike.]

How did you prep the floor. Did you grind or just acid etch?

Good question. I should have mentioned that. I bought the acid etch kit that they sell. I was also doing it on new concrete.

[Vicegrip]

If you acid etch or grind you might want to flood wash and wet vac. I was surprised at how much fine material came out of the freshly etched and scrubbed floor. After etching and flood washing clean I re-flooded and vacuumed up the water. A lot of fine silt came up and you could see the cement surface was cleaner.

[Vicegrip]

Anyone try this new one yet?
http://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/rocksolid/garage-floor-kits/polycuramine-metallic-garage-coat-kitOuch, they lost me at "Glossy" Looks almost glass like but also looks like you would fall on your ass if you tried to work or walk away from a just parked wet car. Is there a textured version?

[Der ABT]

Ouch, they lost me at "Glossy" Looks almost glass like but also looks like you would fall on your ass if you tried to work or walk away from a just parked wet car. Is there a textured version?

I was wondering too....I mean a little snow melt and you got a serious issue......but if you get the red it won't scare the kids as much when they see a pool or blood err water.

[roundel]

As I said in my original post on this thread, the best grip solution is glass beads. They add no visual "mess" to hinder finding bits, but the resulting texture is like a sharks skin. The balance is adding enough to add traction but not so much that cleaning is horrible.

[Dave O]

If you acid etch or grind you might want to flood wash and wet vac. I was surprised at how much fine material came out of the freshly etched and scrubbed floor. After etching and flood washing clean I re-flooded and vacuumed up the water. A lot of fine silt came up and you could see the cement surface was cleaner.

Kurt, Redoing my garage floor (epoxy surface treatment) this fall on a 15 year old rustoleum epoxy surface. The existing surface has scrapes and some tire lift and is in need of a refresh. What can you recommend as a degreaser and surface prep on this situation?

Thanks!

[Vicegrip]

Grind it all off leaving the proper finish and tooth. Wet wash and wet vacuum to get all the dust from the surface and pores. Let dry to proper levels required by the new coating. Test for moisture infiltration and oil contamination (Some coatings are waterborne and less sensitive to moisture).
Install the new coatings to the letter and in the middle of temp ranges.

First thing is to ask the guys here that do coatings and concrete for a living this question . ;)

[Dave O]

Thanks! Guess there is no short cut to grinding it all off.

What about a degreaser? And any of the pros can chime in too. 😉

[BlackTalon]

The pros say "Hire a pro!" so no help there.

Plenty of homeowners have DIY'd good coating applications, but there plenty that did not go so well. But I digress..

Anywho, when you contacted a Rustoleum Technical Rep and told them you want to recoat over what is generally a sound, well-bonded application, of their system, what did they tell you was needed? A good cleaning and just a reapplication of top coat?

What? come again?

Oh, you didn't contact them yet, did you? ;-)


(a pro designer or applicator would likely check w/ the manufacturer of the existing coating system to see what they recommend. Have that info/ knowledge in-hand before deciding to recoat vs total removal an installation of a new system)

[N0tt0N]

You always make being a pro sound like so much work...

[BlackTalon]

You always make being a pro sound like so much work...Worst part about it is your billing is a lot higher then your paycheck...

We work hard for the money.

[roundel]

Temps of the substrate should be falling during application. Warming concrete exhales. If this is happening while your epoxy is curing, it will bubble and the bond will be hindered.

Try pouring a bit of water on uncoated concrete that is warming. You will hear hissing and see tiny bubbles.

[Vicegrip]

Thanks! Guess there is no short cut to grinding it all off.

What about a degreaser? And any of the pros can chime in too. ��

The "grind it off" came from "some tire lift". To degrease a sound but ugly floor I like sodium metasilicate (sp) You can get it straight up and add it to water or get a cleaner that uses it. If it says "Not for use on aluminum!" It might have the good stuff. It denatures oils via soaponification (sp) very well, washes away easily and is ok to run down the drain. I found that it did not cause changes in PH and in my limited experience no issues with adhesion. YMMV

I don't think you need to call in a pro for any garage floor. It is just not that important. RTFM. Going from memory from when I selected and installed the water born rusto stuff the instructions said can be re-coated down the road. This was one of the reasons I selected it. (who am I kidding, I am cheap, it was cheap and looked to be the least finicky of them all)

[Dave O]

Anywho, when you contacted a Rustoleum Technical Rep and told them you want to recoat over what is generally a sound, well-bonded application, of their system, what did they tell you was needed? A good cleaning and just a reapplication of top coat?

What? come again?

Oh, you didn't contact them yet, did you? ;-)


(a pro designer or applicator would likely check w/ the manufacturer of the existing coating system to see what they recommend. Have that info/ knowledge in-hand before deciding to recoat vs total removal an installation of a new system)

Got me there. I'll contact them too. 😀

[Dr K]

The pros say "Hire a pro!" so no help there.

Plenty of homeowners have DIY'd good coating applications, but there plenty that did not go so well. But I digress..

Anywho, when you contacted a Rustoleum Technical Rep and told them you want to recoat over what is generally a sound, well-bonded application, of their system, what did they tell you was needed? A good cleaning and just a reapplication of top coat?

What? come again?

Oh, you didn't contact them yet, did you? ;-)


(a pro designer or applicator would likely check w/ the manufacturer of the existing coating system to see what they recommend. Have that info/ knowledge in-hand before deciding to recoat vs total removal an installation of a new system)

10/10 for both snarky and helpful. That is difficult to do! :D:D:D

[Dave O]

10/10 for both snarky and helpful. That is difficult to do! :D:D:D

I've got a thick skin, and he did have some good points. :D

[cmartin]

FWIW the grinding wasnt bad at all. I rent the machine from HD with the fancy bit and it worked well. A little hard to get in/out of the truck alone, but I dont have a loader! :)

Hard part were the edges since the machine left a bad at the walls. The hand grinding was a bit tedious but not that bad either.

[Dave O]

FWIW the grinding wasnt bad at all. I rent the machine from HD with the fancy bit and it worked well. A little hard to get in/out of the truck alone, but I dont have a loader! :)

Hard part were the edges since the machine left a bad at the walls. The hand grinding was a bit tedious but not that bad either.

Schweeet!

[Vicegrip]

Sunbelt has good selection of latest format grinders that are designed run close to walls and be used by "less skilled operators".

[mlytle]

i did my first floor myself. lasted 14 years. i "called the guy" on this one.

Collins Concrete Coatings in Mannasas. great to work with. finish is called Spartacote with a grip additive.
http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/8108/download_20160921_212230.jpg (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/8108/download_20160921_212230.jpg.html)

http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/8108/download_20160921_212224.jpg (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/8108/download_20160921_212224.jpg.html)

http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/8108/20160921_220840.jpg (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/8108/20160921_220840.jpg.html)

http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/8108/20160921_221001.jpg (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/8108/20160921_221001.jpg.html)

http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/8108/20160921_220822.jpg (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/8108/20160921_220822.jpg.html)

[cmartin]

"less skilled operators".


I resemble that remark

mlylte - that looks great

[dnwong]

Curious how much did it cost and the square foot of the space.

I was going to wait till after the lift was installed to do mine since I was worried that the installers would scratch the new floor up.

i did my first floor myself. lasted 14 years. i "called the guy" on this one.

Collins Concrete Coatings in Mannasas. great to work with. finish is called Spartakote with a grip additive.
http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/8108/download_20160921_212230.jpg (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/8108/download_20160921_212230.jpg.html)

http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/8108/download_20160921_212224.jpg (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/8108/download_20160921_212224.jpg.html)

http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/8108/20160921_220840.jpg (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/8108/20160921_220840.jpg.html)

http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/8108/20160921_221001.jpg (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/8108/20160921_221001.jpg.html)

http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/8108/20160921_220822.jpg (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/8108/20160921_220822.jpg.html)

[mlytle]

space is 28x34 inside. prices range from 5-8 bucks a SQFT.

i am doing the lifts after floor because the 4post will be moveable. and...when they put the chips down in the finish, the extras are swept/blown off. they will stick on anything with grease on it...like the lift mechanism. it is enough of a pain getting them out of the door tracks, would not want to get them out of the lift parts. yes, could tape it all off but....

[dnwong]

Well, I finally did my floor this weekend. Acid Etched the heck out it and put down a high solids Polyurethane Base/Clear.

The Urethane is supposed to have more cushion than an epoxy (when dropping stuff) and should have a higher scratch resistance as well.
53682
53680
53679
53681
53684
53683

[Dr K]

Nice!

[vranko]

Nice. Envious.

What's the framed structure on the left wall for?
53685

[N0tt0N]

Nice!

Looks like he's reserving a place for future DE Championship awards!

[Dr K]

Nice!

Looks like he's reserving a place for future DE Championship awards!

:D:D

I thought it was for the bodies...

[dnwong]

Nice. Envious.

What's the framed structure on the left wall for?
53685

There is a fireplace on the inside wall. Currently disabled.