In search of lower altitude

[87turbolook911]

As most of you have seen and given me much grief (Mackpipes) about the 4 x 4 ride height my car has, I'm looking to plan out what I'll need and how much $$ I'll need to lower the car. I'd like to do it myself, of course under the supervision of my colleagues.

I'm thinking I'd like it slightly below Euro ride height. So what are my options ?

Can I use the adjusters up front and reindex the rear bars? Or do I have to get new torsion bars, shocks, and bushings as well?

[Charlie Stylianos]

Vu,

Your car has relatively low miles so shocks and bushings will have little wear and probably don't need replacing. Unless you want to upgrade these items (shocks, t-bars, bushings) for a sportier ride, I'd leave them alone for now.

The front is super easy to lower with the torsion bar adjusters. 30 minutes max to lower a bit, bounce, measure and repeat until its where you want it.

Depending on how much adjustment room you have in the spring plates, you may be able to get to your desired height. If not, the plates will have to come out and t-bars reindexed. Maybe 3-4 hours to get it just right. This is a good time to inspect/replace the stock spring plate bushings with Neatrix.

A corner balance is a good idea when all done.

[Jim Richards]

Vu, I didn't look at your bushings, so I won't comment on whether or not to replace them. If you plan to only drive your car on the street, the stock t-bars and sway bars should be fine. I don't think you have enough adjustment range on your spring plates so you'll probably need to re-index your t-bars to go to sub-Euro ride height. If your bushings are good, then you'll only need to spend money on a 4-wheel alignment and optionally, a corner balance. Even those things can be DiY'ed if you're willing.

[Jase007]

Vu:

When I went through this I needed new bushing all around. As my car was "pre SC" I bought the Sway Away (SAW) adjustable spring plates with poly bushings (different ID than OEM and Neatrix). These offer more adjustment than SC-forward OEM spring plates but, once set, the adjustment isn't really necessary. Charlie's suggestion for the Neatrix bushings is a good idea or...and I might catch grief for this... you can swap spring plates side to side so that the oblonged bushing where the weight of the car sits is now upside down and the "good" part of the bushing is ready for another X amount of years of bearing the cars weight.

If you aren't upgrading torsion bars realize that a lower height will limit suspension travel and bumps that wouldn't have bottomed out the suspension may now do so. This is what I found when I went for a "lower altitude" and raised the car back up a bit afterwords. I also found this out when I lowered my last two BMWs.

Jason

[87turbolook911]

hmmmm...

For now I think I'd like to use the adjusters for the front and reindex the rear plates. I'll replace bushings if necessary.

I'll let a pro do the alignment and corner balancing.

Is this a one day job?

[Mackpipes]

Vu,
I went with everything except new sways when I did my car. 22 and 28mm t-bars, Neatrix bushings all the way around, Turbo tie rods, bump steer kit, Bilstein HD's and a Weltmiester strut brace. My car was already at European ride height and I wanted it lower. I also wanted to take out the rake. We (Taylor over at ASG) lowered the car until it rubbed and then brought it up a touch. And lastly an alignment. Next time we get together I'll let you drive "The Pipes". My discision regarding ride height was more based on asthetics than performance. It is posible to go too low. If you go too low you start changing the suspension geometry, and the results can do more harm than good to your handling.


Good luck,
Ted

[Jase007]

Vu:

I'll let a pro do the alignment and corner balancing.

Good idea although, there are a ton of threads on DIY alignment(mostly on setting toe). You need a set of scales for the corner balancing (most DIYers don't have as cost beaucoup $).

Is this a one day job?

Yes, but...

I would plan on having some help around, particularly people who have reindexed rear torsion bars on their own cars. If you get in there and discover worn bushings then... one day becomes several without parts on hand.

FWIW

Jason

[Marc A]

Vu:

As I recall (remember about my memory) your rear spring plate bushings are shot. The way you can tell is by looking at the bushing through the sprong plate cover. If the cover is touching the torsion bar tube or clearly not centered on the bushing, its time to replace.

IMO Neatrix is the only way to go for your purpose.

It would be a full day to replace the bushings and do the ride hieght.

[jpinkert]

Another thing that I noticed about your car, Vu, was non-standard tire sizes. You actually have a taller sidewall than you should. If I remember correctly, you're running 205/60 R16 on the front, and 245 50 R16 on the rear.

The factory spec tire sizes should be 205/55 R16 and 245 45 R16 (I think). That alone should make you tires look a little less ballooney.