2001 Boxster S Engine (M96/21) Rebuild

[987kmns]

I always tear open the old oil filter after every oil change. In the past I have been fortunate in that I haven't found any foreign materials in the filter, but recently, at 187,000 miles on the odometer, my filter was covered in bits of plastic that look like chain ramp material.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/IMG_3233_zpsfebfa1d5.jpg

A quick check of the camshaft deviation showed that the timing is out of spec. I wasn't able to find out if the limit specified by Porsche is +- 4 degrees or +- 6 degrees. Regardless, mine is well beyond that.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/01BoxCamshaftDeviation_zps4e9f1f48.png

My wife has been driving the car lately and she noticed some engine codes that seem to go away on their own every now and then. It turns out the codes indicated that the camshaft deviation was out of spec. So, even though I wasn't planning on it, I decided to pull the engine out and tear it down. I was suspecting that some of the chain ramps (particularly those on the Vario Cam units) are really worn down.

First step - engine out.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/8770BC84-C491-442E-8266-D704E6FC19EE_zpsvanr1lm3.jpg

Intake manifolds and other ancillaries removed.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/43C07208-8BC7-4212-8D70-91E9F95FEC17_zpso6npv9e9.jpg

Long block. Gotta love the mess left behind by the power steering reservoir and its leaky habits.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/77247F87-259C-417D-BFDC-295BE53D24C2_zpsnwrz2qtz.jpg

Engine stand plate attached.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/BA27A8EE-EF1D-4FD8-A991-D0FFEDF0548B_zpseux0ovz9.jpg

First order of business was to turn the engine upside down to soak the header bolts in WD40. I really didn't want to snap any.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/8D8E9438-DF21-4B13-A375-403E7D4809A0_zpsruuypu8z.jpg

Luckily they all came out with no issues.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/65A62DDD-9E08-4ED8-B17D-688C93AD615B_zpsaxgbcpyf.jpg

Time for some brief cleaning before the tear down.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/8AE548A3-C8F8-4037-BC97-D51E15213DF2_zpso9wtgvvn.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/B905D4B6-B8D3-420B-B0AC-BD67B094FF03_zpsufp9hjsi.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/3097E356-8548-41F5-9A4A-7765BB5DF2DB_zps4d0tbq9v.jpg

And ready to start removing the 1 - 3 cylinder head.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/6CE6FCE2-CE33-41C6-90DD-912603BE3472_zpsetab9txv.jpg

Camshaft hold down tool installed.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/DD796812-26F8-4F83-82CB-1DD7D1ECF653_zpsmk09mozz.jpg

Oil pump removed.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/AD986CBB-8A78-45B5-87EA-F8D07A7E9EEE_zpsljek7q18.jpg

Valve cover removed. Very happy with the wear on the camshafts.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/BEAC52DB-C7E2-4004-9B86-1E74B41BA20B_zpsktntmdti.jpg

Camshafts removed.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/93D28627-8301-418E-A436-21989574B6B4_zpsth4iudrw.jpg

Lifters (valve tappets) removed.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/BD108BCC-1935-4476-B080-18DA8BFC000C_zpspjn8p5jo.jpg

Lifter housing removed.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/0F9255BC-8A8E-486E-B589-318E5933962E_zpsandvhyk4.jpg

Cylinder head removed.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/FE9BDC58-B27B-4426-90A4-8F5FB64205A2_zpsbzpv9gfl.jpg

Cylinders look beautiful IMO.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/565DECDA-4FF6-4106-B766-F326AD841549_zpsn3dpvx8b.jpg

Repeat the process for 4 - 6 cylinder head.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/21AE1898-3104-4EE9-AA0E-9A3BC223F8FD_zpsklmepf9v.jpg

Short block.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/A96FFF0D-DE1C-430C-A189-7D02EE75723C_zpshvtbf9qm.jpg

Oil pan removed. Nasty looking sump.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/37DBB5B7-994D-48B1-B20F-1C254B1E6A96_zpsxpdhceiz.jpg

4 - 6 cylinder case half removed.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/8785A87B-DEEC-419C-A64E-9813C976B663_zpsx4hejlch.jpg

Crankshaft carrier removed.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/385C8841-CA3F-4029-B30B-09F0A828216E_zpsztmxg2ld.jpg

IMS tensioner paddle not so happy.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/9328985E-1968-4BB4-B86F-310AA06E4771_zpsie8mhq30.jpg

Likewise, the Vario Cam chain ramps were incredibly worn down. I'll post pics when I separate them from the chains and camshafts. So there you have it. Engine tear down complete. I'd say that process was pretty straight forward. My brother, Ion (fcotanis on Dorki), helped throughout. It took the two of us 14 hours to tear the engine down. This included some cleaning time and a couple of meals.

Here is Ion ready for battle.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/5FA0ACCB-B174-4595-ABE9-47CDB426B9D8_zpssi28cfk7.jpg

I am currently forming a list of parts to order and will post more pics here when I begin the assembly.

[BMAN]

Show off!!

Any chance the codes were camshaft sensors that I've been getting? It put me in limp mode a couple of times.

44095

[arob]

I believe I've met your brother, Ion. Is it pronounced "John" in English? I believe we met at VIR either last year or the year before.

[987kmns]

4403 looks familiar. I believe that's what I had. In your case, I'm not sure if 4903 refers to a second sensor on bank 1 or just bank 2. We're talking 986 vs 987.2. When you get a chance, connect your Durametric and at idle go to the "actual values" menu and look at the camshaft deviation on both banks.

[987kmns]

I believe I've met your brother, Ion. Is it pronounced "John" in English? I believe we met at VIR either last year or the year before.

Yep - you're right. He can confirm.

[N0tt0N]

Mihnea! You should have called me :) I'll be tearing down two this winter. I suggest that you get the billet paddle from LN while you are in there. Also, remember that if you are considering addressing the IMS bearing now is the time!

That sump is ugly. I actually haven't seen one that gummed up on an M96/97. Even with black oil coming out the sumps have always been spotless. Did it wipe clean? If it did maybe it was because you opened it upside down and that is just what would have drained out?

6 degrees, btw

[BMAN]

Is it pronounced "John" in English?

Pretty sure it's pronounced Yon but he doesn't seem to mind EYE-on or Eee-on.

When you get a chance, connect your Durametric and at idle go to the "actual values" menu and look at the camshaft deviation on both banks.

Saw that on your post and will take a look. thanks

[987kmns]

Show off!!

Ha ha - I only said that taking it apart is easy. Putting it back together is a different story. We'll have to see how that goes. Also - just so everyone here knows - I have no idea what I'm doing when it comes to engine work, so yeah... it should be fun. I hope I won't screw up the timing or something and turn this thing into a pile of twisted metal. Actually, my plan was to let Ion do the timing so that I could blame him when this thing inevitably blows up.

[arob]

Pretty sure it's pronounced Yon but he doesn't seem to mind EYE-on or Eee-on.

I had him as a student at VIR. When I saw his name, I approached and said "Hi, my name is Rob", and let him pronounce his name. :)

Good driver, BTW.

[N0tt0N]

Tear down is trivial - just carefully bag and tag everything.

Assembly and timing..... :) I'd be glad to help. Are you just replacing the paddle and reassembling or are you tearing down all the way and having work done? Reassembly from here is straightforward and you only have to worry about timing. Once the rods are out the assembly jumps up a level in difficulty on the circlips, especially if you haven't done one.

[987kmns]

Martin - The plan is to get the timing fixed, so will be replacing chains, ramps, tensioners, to make that right. I would like to avoid having work done if possible. I am thinking about changing the crankshaft bearing caps, so we'll see. This car will never see the track so I am not looking to necessarily build the engine stronger the stock. Just want to refresh things. The main goal is for me to learn this process for when I need to do it on the Cayman track car.

I think we'll have to have you over for the assembly. Thanks for the offer!

[N0tt0N]

Sounds like a good plan. I have plenty of assembly lube (mix with break-in oil). Get some Drei-Bond for sealing the case (instead of the recommended 5900 which is a mess to deal with and tends to leave worms inside the block). Also some copper gasket spray. I'll review my notes to see if there is anything else you'd need besides tools and techniques.

[987kmns]

Get some Drei-Bond for sealing the case (instead of the recommended 5900 which is a mess to deal with and tends to leave worms inside the block). Also some copper gasket spray. I'll review my notes to see if there is anything else you'd need besides tools and techniques.

I heard that about 5900. Will do. Thanks!

[ausgeflippt951]

Wow! Is this your car or Ion's?

Kudos to your initiative and fearlessness -- great to see! And double-kudos for being willing to do all this crap with a one-car garage and on jack stands.


Great to see the engine going for so long, though. Just to help set the stage, had the motor ever been opened before? And had you done anything to the IMS prior to this?

What other while-you're-in-there things are you doing -- rod bearings? Piston rings? Valves? (this is why I hate tearing engines apart...I feel obligated to replace literally everything)

[TomChan]

Great job, Mihnea and Ion! Check to see if there's any sign of the cam sprocket slipping from the bolts. I don't think the factory manual calls for Red Loctite on the cam sprockets bolts but we always use it as an extra measure to prevent jumping time.

[Rob VN]

Mihnea,
Did you drop the engine and trans axle using the Sears motorcycle lift and did it clear the under side of the car when lowered? I'm preparing myself for a future clutch job and IMS bearing seal removal. Where did you source the cam lock tools and engine stand?

Thanks,

Rob

[987kmns]

Great to see the engine going for so long, though. Just to help set the stage, had the motor ever been opened before? And had you done anything to the IMS prior to this?

What other while-you're-in-there things are you doing -- rod bearings? Piston rings? Valves? (this is why I hate tearing engines apart...I feel obligated to replace literally everything)

I was very happy with the longevity of the engine as well, especially that even now it doesn't look like it is in very bad shape.

The car is mine. I acquired it in January of 2011 at 90,000 miles. As far as I can tell it had at least 4 owners before me. I drove it daily since then until very recently and added another almost 100,000 miles. The engine has never been opened and there was very little if any maintenance done in the decade before I purchased it. In 2011 when I got it, I did a bunch of clean up work, like replacing the AOS, the busted vacuum tubing, spark plugs, filters, etc. etc. Nothing internal to the engine was ever done. The IMS (double row in my case) is original and in great shape right now still.

With this build, I am trying to keep costs to a minimum (partly due to the very limited value of the vehicle overall). I have the same "while in there" urge, but have to restrain myself. This is mostly a learning exercise for me and a chance to set the motor right for hopefully at least another 100,000 miles. I recently acquired a 987 Boxster S as a DD, so I am not sure whether I will keep this car or sell it. The point was that I couldn't sell it knowing that the timing wasn't right.

[987kmns]

Great job, Mihnea and Ion! Check to see if there's any sign of the cam sprocket slipping from the bolts. I don't think the factory manual calls for Red Loctite on the cam sprockets bolts but we always use it as an extra measure to prevent jumping time.

Tom, thanks for the tip! Will do.

[987kmns]

Did you drop the engine and trans axle using the Sears motorcycle lift and did it clear the under side of the car when lowered? I'm preparing myself for a future clutch job and IMS bearing seal removal. Where did you source the cam lock tools and engine stand?

Yep, I used the Sears yellow ATV lift. This is the third engine drop (twice on this car and once on my Cayman track car) I've done with it and it always worked well. The procedure is to remove the transmission first using the ATV lift and then go back to get the engine. On the Boxster I use a support bar across the top of the engine bay to support the engine (you can see it in my last pic). On the Cayman I just support the engine from below with another jack, but it's a little more tricky to get the ATV jack under it as you have to back out the support jack at the same time. I propped it up on jack stands during the transition.

I always remove the rear bumper because that helps with clearance as you can go straight back instead of down and back. The trick to get the engine out is to turn it 90 degrees once you drop it down in place. With the engine perpendicular to the car, you can easily slide it out between the subframe members. Those can be removed, but I'm sick of doing my own alignments, so I like to leave them in there. If for some reason the engine doesn't clear, just jack up the chassis from the rear, temporarily. It will be a slight pain to slide the jack back, perpendicularly to the car, as the front wheels don't turn, but it can be done, especially if your floor is smooth.

Here is a link to some photos Vranko took when I removed the engine out of my Cayman last year: http://vranko.smugmug.com/Cars/Cayman-Engine-Drop/34737150_7j4f9F#!i=2940325103&k=s6ngHZ5

[ausgeflippt951]

Good to know, thanks. That's terrific you got such great life out of the 986. Very encouraging!



Question: do you actually own any non-Porsches?

[987kmns]

Question: do you actually own any non-Porsches?

No.

[ruffyz]

No.

Good man.

Thanks for the post, I'm actually kinda looking forward to my own rebuild in what I hope is 100k miles from now.

[Rob VN]

Mihnea,
Thank you for the link to your Cayman engine drop and the tip on rotating the engine 90 degrees. The Sears ATV lift is on my Christmas list. Good luck with your engine refresh. Looking forward to your progress.

Rob

[987kmns]

Tonight Ion and I removed all the pistons, rods, and separated the crankshaft carrier.

Pistons and rods:

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/7341F527-D907-4D27-962B-6F2C2CE0C57C_zpsdqtkqwac.jpg

Here is the #6 rod:

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/A44A9B74-E2DA-4F94-91F1-BF821076E0A1_zpswim9vhn0.jpg

There is some wear on the thrust faces, so new bearing caps are in order.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/8E123EEB-E671-4335-85FA-90A8D361316D_zpsic5oqtxz.jpg

Crankshaft carrier:

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/057B3578-7010-4D06-9538-F7EDB08D5342_zpsbrafenw8.jpg

Bolts backed out:

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/281474E4-F10A-42CA-9001-65B88C3C96FA_zpsunhptwl8.jpg

And separated:

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/7D01E52E-FBCC-474E-8B54-777A34CA2640_zpshk7cxmnz.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/695533CE-9E44-46A7-8525-67DB0F9C62B9_zpsphnslbxc.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/D24D15AA-E33B-43E3-ACD8-B26C1A06FEBA_zps8ep60lin.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/B3A1251E-C8E5-465D-B4D5-AD7745BFD5BC_zpsb1sqh0lb.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/FC1968FD-9C63-4ED0-AE77-BBFDEACCB131_zpsfimssewg.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/2573C211-7754-4FF6-91FB-117CE92F814B_zpshug915bu.jpg

Again, I was surprised by the great condition of all the parts. I will also order new crankshaft bearing caps and shims. I'm already very excited to start the assembly. Hopefully, I can finalize the parts list tomorrow and make the order.

Thanks for all the interest and encouragement everyone!

[987kmns]

Mihnea,
Thank you for the link to your Cayman engine drop and the tip on rotating the engine 90 degrees. The Sears ATV lift is on my Christmas list. Good luck with your engine refresh. Looking forward to your progress.

Rob

My pleasure! I just remembered that I had to remove the pressure plate and clutch disc in order to get the engine to squeeze in between the subframe members. With it off, you have the perfect amount of room for the engine to come out. It's not a big deal to undo the pressure plate under the car. Likewise when you reinstall everything.

Please let me know if any questions pop up when you tackle this job. I would love to help with whatever advice I can provide, although based on your work I've followed on P9, you are light years ahead of me. I actually drew a lot of inspiration from you projects for my own track car.

[ausgeflippt951]

Wow, by and large everything looks really good. Right on!

[N0tt0N]

Good call on the rebuild given the bearing surfaces (looks like some clutch riding was going on). This was the 'full tear down' I was asking about :) The circlip insertion on #6 will be the fun part. I have the tool set (it looks like you may as well) and the bore scope needed to avoid any awkward moments on first spin up :)

[987kmns]

awkward moments on first spin up :)

Hahahahaha. "Awkward moments." Love it. I sure hope not!

I have a rebuild tool set that should have the circlip tool. I was planning on practicing a lot before doing the 4-6 bank piston circlips. Ion keeps bragging that he has a USB bore scope, but he hasn't substantiated his claim yet. I have a set of mirrors that I've seen people use sometimes as a low tech solution.

What do you mean about clutch riding and how does that affect the bearing surfaces?

[ausgeflippt951]

What's the 4-1-1 on the #6 circlip? I'm not familiar with this but would like to understand why it's special.

[987kmns]

So for the 1-3 pistons crankcase half, you install the pistons the way you would on any engine - by slipping the piston and rod (with wrist pin and circlip installed) into the bore and bolting the rod bearing cap onto the crankshaft. For the 4-6 crankcase half you can no longer do this as you already bolted the case halves together, so you don't have access to the crankshaft anymore.

What happens instead is that you bolt the 4-6 rods to the crankshaft first and now you have to push the pistons into the bores and slip the wrist pins and circlips through an access hole in the case wall.

Have a look here:http://www.flat6innovations.com/index.php/engine-assembly?showall=&start=3 starting with the 6th pic down and continuing onto the next page. This is generally why folks regard an M96 rebuild as difficult, in addition to the somewhat complex timing. I'm sure this is all a little more straightforward once you do it once or twice.

[roundel]

uhg. I don't like circlips where I can see what I am doing. That procedure sounds scary. :eek:

[987kmns]

Well, like Martin said, you can use a bore scope to double check your work. The bad news is that if it somehow pops off you have to open up the engine again to retrieve it. So, in conclusion, it's only scary if you value your time at all.

[N0tt0N]

What do you mean about clutch riding and how does that affect the bearing surfaces?

The front to back positioning of the crank is setup to be correct with the clutch and pressure plate engaged. As a result you don't tend to see much wear on the end play shims, or thrust washers as Porsche calls them, (the face bearings in front of the second saddle) shown as worn here. http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/2573C211-7754-4FF6-91FB-117CE92F814B_zpshug915bu.jpg

So, wear there generally indicates extraordinary time spent with the clutch semi-engaged (or a track car) assuming the end play was set correctly during the build. You can actually swap the two shims since only one ever gets wear - but I would replace both :)

[987kmns]

Makes sense. The flywheel side shim showed wear per my pic, while the pulley side shim was almost perfect. I can see what you mean about swapping them. I've got two on my list though ;)

I also thought that they limit/set the crankshaft float. Not correct?

[N0tt0N]

I also thought that they limit/set the crankshaft float. Not correct?

They do partially. Sometimes you have to remove a little material if the end play is too tight.

[N0tt0N]

uhg. I don't like circlips where I can see what I am doing. That procedure sounds scary. :eek:

Looks lined up way back in there....
44108

Lets just reach in and pop the circlip on! Easy-peasy!
44109

[Rob VN]

Mihnea,

Glad you enjoyed my P-9 projects.

One tip I saw recently for mating the engine and trans axle was to use a pair of Mercedes wheel hangers that have M 12 X 1.5 threads like our trans axle bolts.

Have you decided what to do with your pistons?

What engine tool set are you using? Does your brother have a bore scope like a Milwaukee? I got one to look at my cylinder wall(s).

Ok enough with the questions.

Again good luck with your project.

Rob

[ausgeflippt951]

My primary takeaway from this is that if our Boxster engine splodes sometime in the future, I'm calling you blokes.

[987kmns]

Rob - clever idea on using the wheel hangers. Otherwise it is a little tricky to get the transmission aligned properly with the engine, especially if working alone. The key is to get the angle between the engine and transmission right.

My pistons are staying. I will do my best to clean some carbon off them. Not sure about replacing the rings, but probably not. My car wasn't burning any oil prior to this.

I am using the BAUM tool set. We have a bore scope that needs to connect to a computer via USB. It doesn't have its own screen.

[Dr K]

What are the potential new problems replacing the rings? I can't imagine having the engine that far apart and not replacing a wear component. But I'm no expert on this (and mighty impressed with this thread, Mihnea!).

[987kmns]

Honestly, it's just cost. Genuine Porsche rings are about $200+/piston, so a non-negligible cost for me. There are other manufacturers out there for about 1/4 of the cost, but they seem to have poor ratings. I'm still on the fence about this.

[Dr K]

Wow! I had no idea they were that expensive.

[N0tt0N]

Also, new rings in a 100K cylinder = better measure the barreling and hope it is perfect. Dominoes fall....

[ausgeflippt951]

Damn, that's some serious dough for some puny metal rings! ;)

What was your oil consumption like? If well within spec, then I would just say forget it.

[987kmns]

I had almost no oil consumption at all within my 6k miles oil change interval. That's what I'm thinking too.

[HughA44s]

Mihnea, A point or two for your consideration. I have done 3 944s and althought the configuration is obviously different, the materials are not. I am sure Porsche used the same AL/SI Alloy on these engines as the 944 - Ansil?? I think and the rods and piston look exactly like the 944s. So, rings have specs to them which can be measured. I have no idea where to get them for this car but you may. Anyway I would remove (VERY CAREFULLY) a top compression ring from a piston or two and measure the width and compare to the spec. I was surprised by how little wear I saw on the porsche engines I rebuilt. Use a cir-clip pliers and set it to expand rather than contract and put it into the ring gap - carefully remove ring it does take abit to brake them so if your careful it works. Measure the width of the ring and compare to spec. Now with this ring, carefully insert it into the cylinder and about a half inch down from the top - making sure it is level with the top of the housing. As with many things in life use lots of lubrication - in this case engine oil. Measure and record the gap. Do this again half way down the cylinder and measure the gap. Finally do this again at the bottom of the piston. Use feeler gauges and DO NOT nick the cylinder wall. Compare these numbers to the specs for ring gap and you will get your answer on the health of the rings and the extent of the Coke-Bottling that is in the cylinder. I will bet your wear in the cylinders walls is well is spec. Use a can that just fits inside the cylinder work well for pushing the ring down into the cylinders and making sure they are in there square.

Hope that helps.

Hugh

[Dr K]

Some 911 cylinders were either Nikasil (sp?)

[987kmns]

Thanks Hugh! I too believe that it will turn out to be in spec. I got some tools to measure if the cylinders are out of round and I will now add your instructions to my next steps. That way I'll also have an idea about the condition of the rings.

[ausgeflippt951]

Another option is to just assume it's in-spec and then you'll not be proven wrong. Until 2k miles later, the car starts spewing oil.

[987kmns]

That was another option I considered pretty heavily, but was dissuaded by the thought you put in yellow.

[987kmns]

First batch of parts/tools showed up at the door today. It would be nice if Amazon could count to 6 though.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/0E655738-9015-4CD7-9F44-914999C1C545_zpsolam7vrv.jpg

[HughA44s]

Mihnea, went back and read the beginning of this thread to confirm this is your first engine rebuild - nice project. You obviously have a good manual but if you want, I can throw a few got-yas and words of caution moving forward that may or may not be in your manual. One caution that is obvious is that I would not get to good at rebuilding these motors as I heard a few of them going boom lately.

[987kmns]

Sure thing. Any advice is much appreciated.

[HughA44s]

Here's a few to start:

1. Take a look at your connecting rods where the rod and cap bolt together. Stamped or etched into both the cap and the rod are numbers - these should be the same (the rods and caps are not interchangeable and machined as a unit) Also, the caps only go on the rods one way. For 944s, the etched numbers go next to each other. Get this right as this is a big deal. I have never looked at boxster rods so you need to make sure how they do this on the engine. I think P and other manufactures actually machine the caps and rods together and then crack them apart.
2. Not sure I would spend the time plasti-guaging (SP?) the rod and crank bearings as you are not cutting the crank or line boring the cases. Basically it appears your going with the stock (+0) bearing set. Others may want to comment on this.
3. I used the same ring compressor you have there and it work but had to mess with it a bit. Basically, when the piston gets down at the bottom of the compressor and the piston skirt is well in the cylinder bore, I had the compressor pivot slightly on the top edge of the piston and form a very slight cone shape which releaved a little pressure at the point where the compressor met the block. Hard to explain. The point is I used another upside piston to push the piston I was installing through the compressor and the stupid piston almost feel into place. Use lots of lubrication. Also what really helped was wiggling the rod slightly back and forth as I cranked up pressure on the compressor - this seemed to set and compress the rings better. I ended up using enough pressure on the compressor so that the piston slides easily but with some resistance. Maybe someone of this site can provide additional tips but this worked for me. Also (very important) get some fuel hose that snugly over the rod bolts when installing piston as you do not want the rod bolts banging against the bearing surface of the crank.
4. Soaking the pistons upside down in Carburetor Cleaner and a stiff nylon brush worked well for removing the carbon deposits on the pistons. Caution - do not blow up your garage and house while doing this. Again not sure on this engine but the bottom oil control rings are a 3 piece set and can be flimsy - make sure your keep these intact and set up correctly.
5. Double check what I said for applicability to your engine.

More latter as I think of them.

[987kmns]

This was all very valuable.

1. Yep, they are cracked apart, so they only fit one way, but I did keep all the rods with their respective caps, position, orientation, etc.
2. Like you said, because I am not machining the crank or cases, I went with stock (+0) bearing sets.
3. This was great to learn! Especially the part about the piston ring compressor. I understand exactly what you mean. I will think of a way to keep it open at the top so it doesn't turn into a cone as the piston moves into the bore. Also a good tip for protecting the crank as the rod goes down. I think I had seen that in some build photos long ago.
4. Also very useful! I do want to get that carbon off. Will try this out.
5. Of course. So far it all was very applicable. Keep it coming.

[gawdzilla]

Mihnea, I love what you and Ion are doing here! Definitely wishing you guys good luck with the rebuild. About 10 years ago I did the same with (believe it or not) the RB26DETT that is still running in my 240 *knock on wood*. Tore down, measured, and reassembled everything in a garage as well with a buddy of mine, minus the machine work for the block. The pic u posted above with the piston compressor brings back some memories. I think mine was from Sears, lol.

Definitely an interesting read about the special piston pin insertion procedure once the block halves are back together.... few suggestions which you probably already know...
1) don't put in new rings if your motor did not have significant blowby or lowered compression. perhaps your motor is different, but typically new rings need a nicely honed fresh cross hatch surface for proper break-in. You can do a ghetto hand drilled hone stone clean up of the bore, but IMO that is best left to a machine shop. Given your budget and ring/bore condition I would keep the rings as is.

2) when you reassemble, get some rubber hose to slip onto the exposed large rod end bolt threads. It is critical to protect your bore and the crankshaft as another user posted. when inserting the piston/rod combo the traditional way, you don't want the rod to accidentally swing and nick your cylinder wall, nor do you want the rod to touch your crankshaft journal on its way in. remove the hose when you're ready to put the caps on and the rod end is seated around the crank journal. learned this tip from a dinosaur muscle car builder.

[N0tt0N]

I would suggest you return that ring compressor unopened. Get the fixed one from LN or I think Jeggs for the piston. Lube it, piston goes in easy, bottom on ring compressor goes flush with block, tap tap - alternating edges if it starts to stick, done. Much easier.

[987kmns]

Thanks Will! I remember you telling me about your engine build for the 240. It's definitely a good experience. Re your tips: (1) agreed. I ended up not getting new rings. Thanks for the extra confirmation that this was the right move. It seems to have been the overall opinion on here, which makes me feel more at ease. (2) Yep. I'll definitely do that. Thanks.

[987kmns]

I would suggest you return that ring compressor unopened. Get the fixed one from LN or I think Jeggs for the piston. Lube it, piston goes in easy, bottom on ring compressor goes flush with block, tap tap - alternating edges if it starts to stick, done. Much easier.

Ha! I didn't know that existed. Seems like a better alternative. Will do.

[HughA44s]

I also wish I knew you can get fixed ring compressors - Next time, I will go this route. Any spec numbers yet?

[Trak Ratt]

I would suggest you return that ring compressor unopened. Get the fixed one from LN or I think Jeggs for the piston. Lube it, piston goes in easy, bottom on ring compressor goes flush with block, tap tap - alternating edges if it starts to stick, done. Much easier.
I'd like a pic of the "fixed one"?? If it doesn't open a little while not just put the piston on the block/barrel straight away? and yes I've done it both ways so...
Do the books still say using vacuum hose on the bolts to guide over the journals to help?

[987kmns]

The fixed compressors look like this: http://lnengineering.com/index.php/products/hard-anodized-tapered-sleeve-ring-compressors.html?p=2

Hose trick isn't mentioned in the books, but others on here have brought it up. Thanks.

[987kmns]

Any spec numbers yet?

Yes - Ion and I started measuring the bores today. Here is cylinder #6.

First plane upper measurement.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/D105FDCC-A5BF-4E27-B263-118F131189FB_zpsubka3kfa.jpg

First plane lower measurement.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/CDAF9692-4433-4E3A-8FAB-B0D50252B09A_zps9o6ts3gg.jpg

Orthogonal plane upper measurement.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/EB3B9CCF-9234-499C-B0CE-86500CD141B0_zpsnnbjzvq7.jpg

Orthogonal plane lower measurement.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/AE820968-15DA-4A06-8A4B-036ACED96384_zps34qufoog.jpg

So the largest difference high to low across planes was 0.0020" which is 0.0508mm. I don't know what the spec should be for these engines. Looking around to find out.

EDIT: I just realized that I'm including taper in the out-of-round calculation. The max out-of-round at a single depth is < 0.0015", which is < 0.0381mm. Porsche max out-of-round specs that I was able to find (for other models) have been 0.03mm and 0.04mm, so I am right around there. I realize now that I would have to go back and do this much more carefully for a perfect reading. Temperature, I'm guessing, also plays a big part in this. As things stand, I now know that, as expected, the cylinders are not perfect, but probably a the high end of in-spec.

[987kmns]

Today I also tackled some piston cleaning. After some research online, I found that this stuff should work pretty well.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/B5394111-D0E8-4DDA-BE33-D9D4FC5F225C_zpspqobsavu.jpg

I have the #6 piston soaking overnight. During the day I made some progress, but it looks like it may have to soak overnight for a perfect cleaning.

Before:

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/AAD3314F-BAA1-4D57-A032-5409EB754541_zpshmyw1kky.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/92E97AA7-0251-405D-A8E4-CECFBB2DAEB6_zpsdhjurton.jpg

3 hours later:

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/3CDAE585-8816-4B3F-9701-DBBB7E40C2A1_zpshibeacrr.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/E6D278D3-72E4-4C5B-8927-C0DD829B5B51_zps7vreieax.jpg

This is after minimal agitation. I will post some more pics tomorrow after the overnight soak.

[Trak Ratt]

The fixed compressors look like this: http://lnengineering.com/index.php/products/hard-anodized-tapered-sleeve-ring-compressors.html?p=2

Hose trick isn't mentioned in the books, but others on here have brought it up. Thanks.That's amassing!! I was 1st shown this trick on my 1st rebuild in '66 (that's 1966 Talon, not 1866!)
Ok, got it. Tapered so as you push the piston w/rings installed down through the gismo the taper causes the rings to compress, thereby easing the install. Looks like it would work great on a specific size piston. the others work on a wide variety of sizes. Trick is to not tightened to much, but just enough to ease piston w/compressed rings into cylinder/barrel.

U pays your money etc. etc. I like tools!

[987kmns]

Piston #6 is finally clean after an all-night soak. Five more to go.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/E41EE0FC-CC36-4689-932E-BE061482D295_zpss28omuoa.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/7D0F0904-DF64-4DCE-B72E-637137DF40B0_zpskyvr0chp.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/6F3CB2BA-8497-45C0-974F-F5D933D005A1_zps6ilotfwy.jpg

Also cleaned the piston rings.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/A68CEE79-35DE-474E-BDBE-D0499A261BF1_zpswhaf85bl.jpg

[HughA44s]

NICE!! Looks like the cylinder wear was acceptable. I have never been able to use those tools to get good repeatable measurements - more power to you! That Berrymans sure did the trick. One thing, did you keep the ring sets indexed to the pistons they came out of? You seem to be tackling this in a very precise manner so I assume you did. Question? Are one of the rings an "oil scraper" ring? If so make sure you have that in the correct orientation on re-assemble. I agree with Dave, those single piece ring compressors are slick.

[VaSteve]

I used that same ring compressor on my 944 engine. I don't understand what you mean by the "cone".

The problem I *did* have was that it got a little cockeyed and one edge of the compressor was a little higher so the piston ring slipped out and wouldn't go into the cylinder. I had to be very patient and make sure the thing laid flat on the top of the block the whole time. "shloook" and it was in. :)


I used some paint thinner I had left over from painting my motorcycle to clean up the pistons. It was still a PITA but seemed to work the fastest of anything else I tried.

[HughA44s]

A bit of a nit and I am not sure how you are setting up your your measurement planes but what you are looking for is not "taper" but "coke-bottle-ing". Your piston velocities are near zero and the tops and bottoms and highest in the middle so that is the wear you would be looking for = along with ovaling. (I think 3 measurements would do the trick but get one near the middle). Based on the assumption that the CB effect would be minimal at the top and bottom (of the cylinder), what you measured (at the top and bottom) should be truly due to the "ovaling effect" caused by combustion forces being apply to the rod as the crank rotates and therefore not in direct line with the motion of the piston and the center-line of the crank (piston slap I think). Piston slap or ovaling should show-up in the cylinders at a plane perpendicular to the crank. That's what I am thinking anyway! Interesting. Edit: Looking back at your pictures, and how you are measuring, it appears you may have figured this out already.

[987kmns]

I had figured out that the worst wear would be perpendicular to the crank and thus got 2 measurements in that plane, but you're right 3 measurements at different heights would be better. I didn't get any measurements in the middle. I'll probably go back and do that too. It's easy enough.

Piston rings were kept in order. I can only dip one piston at a time in the Berrymans so I only removed the rings off one piston at a time, making sure to keep the original orientation. One ring set is indeed a scraper. I forgot to take a pic with the rings back on the piston, but will do that soon.

[ausgeflippt951]

That stripper is great stuff. Glad to see it doesn't eat the aluminum (or at least, not by much).

I like that ring compressor. Sure wish I had it the last time I did an engine.

[987kmns]

Quick update - Piston #5 is finished. Piston #4 and #1 are soaking overnight. At this pace I should have all 6 cleaned by the end of the week.

A byproduct of cleaning the pistons has been lowering their mass. Here is #5 before cleaning.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/D9C1123C-ADB0-4CD2-9E23-02B1B0300A61_zpsvddpctse.jpg

And here it is after cleaning.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/20B1F453-AA64-4CA3-8E8D-61313FFED160_zpsqbyxsdgw.jpg

So I removed 3g of carbon. Not bad. For six pistons that would be a total of 18g, which is significant.

Finally, here is #5 with rings installed.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/AF62E66D-BCCB-4619-A6F3-499A00D5C777_zps72jljqmg.jpg

[HughA44s]

Does your manual address the orientation of the ring gaps at the time of installation? (ie: 120 degrees apart, 180 degrees apart) Also, I have had mixed results getting a good seal on the headgaskets without surfacing the block and heads, at least the heads. Again, don't know the particulars of this engine but cleaning, without damaging the surfaces would seem to be key. I do not have any specific suggestion here but maybe someone does.
Very nice progress. I did look at the piston cir-clip install link and that does look like "fun". Maybe some practice on one of your pistons while it is out to establish some "feel" might be helpful later.

[987kmns]

Does your manual address the orientation of the ring gaps at the time of installation? (ie: 120 degrees apart, 180 degrees apart) Also, I have had mixed results getting a good seal on the headgaskets without surfacing the block and heads, at least the heads. Again, don't know the particulars of this engine but cleaning, without damaging the surfaces would seem to be key. I do not have any specific suggestion here but maybe someone does.
Very nice progress. I did look at the piston cir-clip install link and that does look like "fun". Maybe some practice on one of your pistons while it is out to establish some "feel" might be helpful later.

Manual says 120 degrees apart IIRC. Will check again before the final installation. Also, practicing with the circlip will probably be key.

I purchased some gasket removal paste that is supposed to dissolve the gasket thus reducing or eliminating the need for scraping. We'll see if it works. I'd like to try cleaning the cases this weekend.

Not much progress to report today other than having cleaned two more pistons. The last two are soaking tonight, so I should have them all finished by tomorrow night.

The first part to arrive was the IMS bearing kit from Pelican. Here it is:

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/669CC05A-A3C4-43F4-BD69-508E52CCFD8C_zpsgzgqttn7.jpg

[Dr K]

That is a BIG circlip!

[987kmns]

That is a BIG circlip!
Yes. Yes it is.

More parts arrived today from Pelican.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/2BA0C404-2C22-4A6F-B23A-B1872FFAAD87_zpshfwbhpdr.jpg

[987kmns]

All pistons are finally clean.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/CB449582-945D-4E40-8DA6-5F3E0104C075_zps7kh4ijpm.jpg

[HughA44s]

NICE! I am running out of potential got-yas to pass on but beautiful parts! I did try and use a sub-standard torque-indicator tool when I did my last engine build - the nylon based under the dial indicator flexed all over the place and threw off the measurements. LL - Get a better quality tool next time!! Will be interested in following your up-dates.

[987kmns]

Thanks for all your help.

[Rob VN]

Mihnea,
You are making good progress.

Are your connecting rod piston pin bushings OK and are you going with better rod bolts?

Regards,

Rob

[Trak Ratt]

120 degrees is pretty standard for a 3 ring setup.

I found this type of ring compressor works well

44201

It lets you see more of what's going on.

Most order at least one (but 2 is better) extra ring sets! Listen carefully and if you hear a small "ting", start over. Cause you just broke a ring. Saw a car show over the weekend where a guy was putting rings on a Hemi piston, and it sure is easier on a big bore piston!!!

[987kmns]

Are your connecting rod piston pin bushings OK and are you going with better rod bolts?

The rod bushings at the small end looked really good. Very little wear there compared to the big end. I am keeping them. I did look into replacing them though, out of curiosity. The bushings are about $120 for all 6, so not very costly, but I'm not sure how I'd install them myself. I do have a press, which I use for the motor mounts, but this seems like it would take a lot more precision. Also, it looked like the bushings come without the oiling hole and you would have to drill that after pressing in the bushings. After drilling it looked like they used a tiny sander to smoothen out the inside edge where the drill bit came out. Pretty amazing. I think it's doable at home, but I wasn't feeling it this time. I don't know, at that point you might as well upgrade the rods to a better spec anyway.

I'm not doing aftermarket rod bolts because it's not necessary in this application (no track = no stretching IMHO. I can tell you that I revved the crap out of it for street driving and had no issues in 187k miles so...yeah). The 996 rod bolts that came on my 986 were superseded by 997 rod bolts, so I guess it may be a tiny upgrade in that regard, but all stock.

BTW, as a general comment for folks interested in these things - when I opened this engine, I was of the mindset that for a track build, everything would have to be replaced with better, aftermarket components. Pistons, rods, rod bolts, crankshaft carrier bolts, IMS chain tensioner paddle, the list goes on and on and on. After taking this engine apart down to the last nut and bolt, I have changed my opinion slightly. It seems that a lot of the aftermarket products are complete overkill. They definitely are overkill for the road. My day job deals with statistics. Unfortunately I can't collect and don't have enough data on these engines, but I'm pretty sure that some of the failures that are now being avoided through costly aftermarket parts are so rare in occurrence, that they are well within the defect rate of parts in manufacturing. Essentially, I am attributing the failures to defective components (within normal defect rates) rather than poor design. Of course aftermarket companies would have you believe that you should replace all internals save for the engine cases (and that's because they don't make aftermarket versions of those).

Now, would I still upgrade everything on a track engine build? Hell yes. If I was building an upgraded 3.8 to drop in my Cayman track car, I would go all out and shell an extra $10 to $15k to have everything over designed and have peace of mind and be able to blueprint the engine, etc. etc. This engine though, simply isn't worth that kind of money. I think owners should really look at the use cases for their cars when deciding to do these very expensive rebuilds. If the use case involves some "spirited" driving on weekends, then I don't think any aftermarket components are necessary. Just one man's opinion, of course.

Martin and others on here, who have a lot more experience and knowledge with these engines can comment on this. I'm a very data driven person, and having looked at the parts and the failure modes I'm just not so convinced anymore that these engines were design disasters that we should spend the price of a very nice car to make right.

[987kmns]

Listen carefully and if you hear a small "ting", start over. Cause you just broke a ring. Saw a car show over the weekend where a guy was putting rings on a Hemi piston, and it sure is easier on a big bore piston!!!

Oh man! I hope not. But yeah, I'm planning on being extremely careful.

[987kmns]

Tonight I cleaned the circlips.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/3FA92D50-EE4C-457D-B8A0-BC43BDDCDAB9_zpsywkedrvr.jpg

[ausgeflippt951]

BTW, as a general comment for folks interested in these things - when I opened this engine, I was of the mindset that for a track build, everything would have to be replaced with better, aftermarket components. Pistons, rods, rod bolts, crankshaft carrier bolts, IMS chain tensioner paddle, the list goes on and on and on. After taking this engine apart down to the last nut and bolt, I have changed my opinion slightly. It seems that a lot of the aftermarket products are complete overkill. They definitely are overkill for the road. My day job deals with statistics. Unfortunately I can't collect and don't have enough data on these engines, but I'm pretty sure that some of the failures that are now being avoided through costly aftermarket parts are so rare in occurrence, that they are well within the defect rate of parts in manufacturing. Essentially, I am attributing the failures to defective components (within normal defect rates) rather than poor design. Of course aftermarket companies would have you believe that you should replace all internals save for the engine cases (and that's because they don't make aftermarket versions of those).

Now, would I still upgrade everything on a track engine build? Hell yes. If I was building an upgraded 3.8 to drop in my Cayman track car, I would go all out and shell an extra $10 to $15k to have everything over designed and have peace of mind and be able to blueprint the engine, etc. etc. This engine though, simply isn't worth that kind of money. I think owners should really look at the use cases for their cars when deciding to do these very expensive rebuilds. If the use case involves some "spirited" driving on weekends, then I don't think any aftermarket components are necessary. Just one man's opinion, of course.


I completely agree. Honestly, oftentimes it's bragging rights more than anything reasonable.

[HughA44s]

"If I was building an upgraded 3.8 to drop in my Cayman track car" sounds like you are hatching a plan .... Back to Dave's comment - I did chip a chunk off a ring (oil scraper) during install and the good news is I had saved the old ones that were not worn and used one of those.

"I think owners should really look at the use cases for their cars when deciding to do these very expensive rebuilds." Agree - putting on my flame suit right now as we speak.

[987kmns]

"I think owners should really look at the use cases for their cars when deciding to do these very expensive rebuilds." Agree - putting on my flame suit right now as we speak.

Ha ha, yeah, that's what I was thinking too when I posted that last night. Of course it's just my opinion and I know close to nothing about engines, but I do know about numbers and statistics, so that was the perspective I took. For me personally, it was very educative holding the part in my hand and thinking of ways it can fail (or not fail, as the case may be).

[vranko]

For me personally, it was very educative holding the part in my hand and thinking of ways it can fail

That's exactly what I think of when holding my shift lever :bang::bang: :oops:

BTW. Great thread. Impressive work and documentation.

[Nerfbar]

That's exactly what I think of when holding my shift lever :bang::bang: :oops:

Is that what the kids are calling it nowadays?

[987kmns]

All parts are here.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/3C2A3FB6-D8DC-447A-AAC7-DC3346B11EFE_zpsd2beouwl.jpg

[BobNovas]

hmmm. you're married?

[Dr K]

^My thought exactly. I was going to post "better get working on that car before your wife kicks you out!"

[BMAN]

Newly weds. Give it time.

[HughA44s]

Actually I was think what a nice Thanksgiving table arrangement! I do however consider the clear plastic parts bags to clash with the sort of guards-red place settings.

[N0tt0N]

The Lab Rats in their Natural Habitat
44230

[987kmns]

^My thought exactly. I was going to post "better get working on that car before your wife kicks you out!"

My wife is a first year surgery resident (intern is the technical term), so in other words, the house is mostly mine. I have entire days to clean up before she gets back from work.

[987kmns]

The Lab Rats in their Natural Habitat

Indeed! And thank you Martin and Tina for stopping by, helping out, and lending us the IMS extractor!

[987kmns]

Today Ion and I tackled the crank bearing carrier.

Dirty:

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/6D3310CA-FCF9-4E1B-B47A-C373DE6D8AFA_zpsfj5shj6r.jpg

Cleaned up:

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/70F8B851-2CB7-4257-8C25-75F2C15455C4_zpsud81vvrl.jpg

Old and new crank bearing caps and "thrust washers":

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/8D55DC95-A58F-42AE-BE8F-C1539C08E1B5_zpst1nk2y7i.jpg

New bearing caps in place:

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/4C619633-7CB9-4025-BA9F-D6C7E59E9FCF_zpsay5vpibe.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/BEE85286-1F1D-4955-B007-90E920BC4A07_zpsd5tzvl4c.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/20495EAC-E778-4858-8672-577D0D1B63C7_zpst1hhczm3.jpg

Crank ready to be installed:

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/0AB5B239-8548-447B-86E8-EF7C4E34A844_zps8zoi9uci.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/8E72B4E8-7DCB-4963-A008-1C5EB6955757_zpsdtwphson.jpg

Ready to bolt it down:

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/5F044C9B-3A13-4421-ADDE-68A6774369EB_zpsrwgai0y1.jpg

Measuring crankshaft end play:

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/5C65AB76-D677-47C9-A4A0-DDA0E6C8F21D_zpsk07d4jp1.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/90ADCDA5-24EB-4461-AE32-325AB9C00435_zpsidqejcfa.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/39A9F269-0566-484E-BA1D-A5D7CBEECC2D_zpsmwwhqhew.jpg

End play was 0.004" = 0.102mm, which is exactly in the middle of the range for a new installation. Awesome!

[B r i a n]

Looks great, and very nice pictures!

[HughA44s]

What are you using for assembly lube? Great Progress!!

[Dr K]

Very nice. Where is your wife doing her R1? Is she going on to general surgery or a specialty?

[987kmns]

Very nice. Where is your wife doing her R1? Is she going on to general surgery or a specialty?

INOVA Fairfax Hospital. A fellowship of some sort, as I understand it. I don't think she's sure yet.

[987kmns]

What are you using for assembly lube? Great Progress!!

Thanks. Joe Gibbs Driven Assembly Grease mixed with Mobil 1 0W40.

[ausgeflippt951]

Oh boy oh boy.

[987kmns]

Today, Ion and I finished cleaning the #1 - 3 case half and started cleaning the #4 -6 case half.

Finished #1 - 3:

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/A416D0BC-29BB-40FB-8FFE-B7C34C0B5189_zpsrnb3so7b.jpg

In progress #4 - 6:

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/0F9E1AB1-FB0C-4C7C-B82A-AA4046423C2F_zpsp0xjrads.jpg

Unfortunately, the outside of the cases is stained/corroded in some areas, so it won't look as nice as the inside. The main purpose of all this work was to avoid contaminating the build with dirt from the outside of the case (and to make for some decent assembly photos ;)).

[ausgeflippt951]

And to put off finishing the build! C'mon, I know how it goes...too nervous to actually put things back together so you occupy your time by doing "prep work". :D

[987kmns]

Ha ha. That too.

[HughA44s]

Does your wife know you are publishing parts-porn on the internet while she is off trying to establish her career as a Doctor? - Nice progress.

[Rob VN]

Mihnea,
You are making good progress. What are you using to clean the block halves? The look like new pieces inside.

Rob

[987kmns]

What are you using to clean the block halves?

We used Amsoil Power Foam (http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/other-products/cleaners-and-protectants/power-foam/), which really dissolves oil and gunk deposits. Then, we simply hosed it down with water, using Simple Green to degrease the case. I have an in-line water filter to minimize hard water stains/deposits. Finally, we made sure to allow all oil/coolant passages to drain and let it air dry for a while. If you have access to compressed air, I would definitely dry it off that way. Came out pretty well inside and out. The outside has some stains from corrosion due to winter driving.

[987kmns]

Today Ion and I tackled the IMS bearing replacement. All IMS bearing extraction tools belong to N0tt0n, who graciously let me borrow them. Thank you thank you thank you!

Here is the sequence of steps. The removal was pretty straightforward.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/D7E6A9AF-8B06-4342-B4EE-DC40E3DA910B_zpsb6k18l8h.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/14047C10-01C6-46D1-9F43-43743AD36667_zpsxifzb4ng.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/C402138C-AC42-4071-BAF2-BDF6D364B451_zpsebjgmykg.jpg

The original IMS bearing was in great shape. No play at all. It seems to have been lubricated by engine oil, as there was oil inside the IMS itself.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/8CA106C0-8886-4BFF-B493-A7084ED3CA4C_zpsriahii90.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/A0335B71-9C4A-455A-B771-4EE771EB5CBC_zpsakb4abt3.jpg

Here are the kit components being used for this install. The Pelican kit fits both single and double row IMSs, so some parts are not used. The single and double row component zip lock bags were labeled improperly. Not a good sign.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/817531B2-9FE5-480F-B8E7-A5DADD051B03_zpsewusdtqc.jpg

Bearing tapped in.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/C5B50AED-01B4-4196-AC13-2AE48A4C2A5B_zpsuub0gvvr.jpg

Spacer sleeve added.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/34E35D46-4AED-46D1-B051-EAAE339B2DAB_zpszuu49a3r.jpg

Locking ring inserted.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/6CACAF2E-C0D4-4D72-B942-F7D74ED88252_zpsvnlnzh42.jpg

In theory this should have been it. Pretty easy stuff. Unfortunately, that was not the case today. After installing the locking ring, we noticed that it was not sitting deep enough in the IMS groove. It turns out the spacer sleeve was sticking out too far and thus blocking some of the groove where the locking ring should slide in. We tried tapping the bearing farther, but it wouldn't budge. At this point, we started measuring the thickness of the spacer sleeve.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/52B50550-5454-482F-83AF-8DF81EF0303F_zpspoq7enaq.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/4D500B47-4D6A-4C13-94A5-26C5CAA4D742_zpsxsafxvgh.jpg

Oh oh! Thanks Pelican. We quickly touched it up with some 200 grit sandpaper, cleaned it, and sure enough, it now sits flush with the edge of the groove. The locking ring finally fit properly too. This cost us an unplanned 2 hours worth of work. Final installation.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/CFFD8BF1-F1B1-4C66-88FB-66E7A927AF28_zpsa3hxfuyo.jpg

The next step was to complete the crankshaft carrier assembly. To that end, the rods for pistons 4 - 6 had to be installed. Old and new bearings and bolts.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/05FEF5C7-5855-45CC-A860-EFA99679CB3A_zpsuhaech56.jpg

Aaand done.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/50D0DD91-9B52-4698-B0E7-A04960941EBF_zpshdxp5r6f.jpg

Time to add the rest of the parts.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/A8680EFB-2141-4A8B-AC82-FDF52424881A_zpst2nu3592.jpg

Completely finished.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/BCD1CFC6-B883-4ADB-B678-8AE9D3B89574_zps4c5j2zw5.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/652EF933-27AF-4DF9-B271-16FF66839F1C_zpsmjsin1la.jpg

Back to case cleaning later in the week. I'm excited about assembling the short block soon!

[N0tt0N]

Great job, man!

[Lupin..the..3rd]

Might be worth considering an IMS upgrade WYIT. The stronger aftermarket bearings, or the oil pressure-fed bearing upgrade are popular retrofits to avoid trouble down the road.

[Rob VN]

Mihnea,
Good progress, you might beat Santa Claus.

You might consider removing the seal on your new IMS bearing so it gets lubrication although I suspect this new IMS bearing may out last the car. About how much did you have to shave off of the Pelican spacer, oops I guess it was 0.04".....

I am enjoying following your project.

Regards,

Rob

[987kmns]

About how much did you have to shave off of the Pelican spacer, oops I guess it was 0.04".....

I am enjoying following your project.

Yep that was it, but the locking ring wasn't engaging properly before and later it did, so I felt much better about the installation.

Thanks!

[987kmns]

So we made a bit more progress on the engine today. Namely, we finished cleaning the 4 - 6 case half, installed the 1 - 3 case half back on the engine stand, and dropped the crankshaft carrier into it.

Here are some shots of the 4 -6 case half all cleaned up. Not perfect, but it'll do.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/2395F1C8-5F22-4885-B26A-67C05695E20F_zpsh1cpfjl7.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/8667C186-B2AB-4EFB-AD7A-92E040212B1F_zpsgwcj9j8i.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/0B9424C8-ADF2-4B9F-9ACF-ECE93FC8C12E_zpsiuvzhfdc.jpg

1 - 3 case half back on the stand.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/83C69184-8B11-4D5D-BA24-C15CC8FF9195_zpscpiv9p4d.jpg

Crankshaft carrier installed.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/F59F2A15-49A8-4FD4-9046-13BA5A4377FF_zpsuwu7sgkx.jpg

Engine set to U4 in preparation for piston #1 to be installed.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/3701C32A-E331-470D-9D47-C048746B03C2_zps7zkepcd3.jpg

[roundel]

I nominate this thread for the Hall of Fame! Please keep the pics and progress reports coming.

[Jazzbass]

I nominate this thread for the Hall of Fame! Please keep the pics and progress reports coming.
Good call. Not sure why I didn't do that earlier :roll:

[smdubovsky]

I nominate this thread for the Hall of Fame! Please keep the pics and progress reports coming.

I think that was apparent by the first page or two;) And at only 20-something posts(?) at the time may be the 'youngest' HoF member ever;)

[987kmns]

Thanks guys for the HoF induction for the thread. Much appreciated!

Now, for a little more progress. First thing today, we got pistons 1 - 3 ready for installation. The rods were connected to the pistons using the wrist pins and all 6 circlips. Then, we replaced the rod bearings right before inserting them into the cylinders.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/1E12BACA-7A53-4043-9ECB-52CA4D9B6ACC_zpsyj7byrvj.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/595B5807-0A33-4AB9-84DD-6E99B8C1933A_zpsepjacteg.jpg

Next, we flipped the case 180 degrees. At the far end, you can see my ghetto replacement for a Porsche tool that is supposed to hold the crankshaft carrier in place while the case is upside down. The near end (by the flywheel) already has two permanent bolts installed, so doesn't need the temporary measure. You can see them both if you look closely. One is in the chain guide housing area and one is outside, just to the SW of cylinder 3 in the photo.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/F36BC642-380D-4A6A-8D11-94C3A667DBBB_zpsgbpuozrj.jpg

Piston #1 installed. Set crank pulley to position U4 for this.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/63746BD1-B7B8-4574-889F-2C2E1A72C789_zpsrip3n2cv.jpg

Piston #2 installed. Set crank pulley to position U5 for this.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/2748668B-DF32-4562-8D4F-BA48FF318049_zpskvryhbmm.jpg

Piston #3 installed. Set crank pulley to position U6 for this.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/29AE0804-F384-468D-BBFE-33EDC7BC72B7_zps9pqmwahq.jpg

Next we practiced the installation procedure for the #4 - 6 piston installation. Here we pushed piston #6 into the cylinder and used the alignment tool to set it at the correct hight where the wrist pin can be inserted. Obviously, the connecting rod is currently on the block, so wasn't used for this procedure.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/E5C2A041-483D-41D4-9C76-A0350AA57E4F_zpsndl1qdnz.jpg

And finally, here is a screenshot from the bore scope of the circlip correctly installed on piston #6. This was just a dry run. Later this week we are planning to bolt the crankcase halves together and carry out the #4 - 6 piston installation.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/8837382f-1e58-49d2-93ce-1463fb17604b_zps645882ee.png

[ausgeflippt951]

I'm continually impressed by this thread. Particularly how quickly you seem to be going. Not many DIY'ers can say they have rebuilt a motor in the matter of a few weeks.

[987kmns]

After the short block is assembled and there is more space around the garage, I'll have to clean the last few parts (cylinder heads, valve covers, etc.) so that will take some time. I'd be happy if it's done by the end of January. That'll give me enough time to bring the Cayman back and work on prepping it for next season.

[Rob VN]

Mihnea,

What shape is your motor mount bushing in? Pelican and others sell just the bushing to be pressed in. Likewise the trans axle mounts can be replaced by ones from the 996. Porsche charges a lot of money for the 986/987 bracketry.

I presume your tool suite pops out the circlips?

Did you notice any additional wear on rod bearing #6 since it is the furthest from the oil pump?

Good Luck and have a Happy Holiday. Go easy on the fumes,

Rob

[987kmns]

Mihnea,

What shape is your motor mount bushing in? Pelican and others sell just the bushing to be pressed in. Likewise the trans axle mounts can be replaced by ones from the 996. Porsche charges a lot of money for the 986/987 bracketry.

I presume your tool suite pops out the circlips?

Did you notice any additional wear on rod bearing #6 since it is the furthest from the oil pump?

Good Luck and have a Happy Holiday. Go easy on the fumes,

Rob

Rob -

The engine mount is fairly new as I just replaced it this past spring. I have been getting just the mount inserts from Pelican for my Cayman as well as the Boxster. On the most recent update, I went ahead and purchased a press so I could press the new mount in myself. (I think I saw one of your articles on the Wevo mount way back and you had a press, so...) In the past I used to bring them to a shop.

I don't have a special tool to pop the clips out with. I just used a small screwdriver and kept my finger on top of the clip so it wouldn't fly across the room, or my eyes, when released.

The thrust face on the #6 rod bearing was the most worn of them all.

Happy Holidays!

[987kmns]

Today we joined up the half cases and completed the piston installation. Last image of the 1 - 3 case.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/8123D988-700A-4F83-A35C-2A0D77A10F70_zpsxekq9l9d.jpg

Ion added the Drei Bond, but I didn't take any photos because we were in a rush to complete the installation within the 5 minutes specified before the sealant cures. Here is the 4 -6 case bolted down. Some advice is to use a thin sharpie to mark where you want the Drei Bond to go according to your manual. Then, you can just follow that line while squeezing out the Drei Bond.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/136F7312-DE4F-432E-8F5D-1EAAD55BF99C_zpsfilh7328.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/10F0B1FE-8725-4CAF-ABD9-8FB4B2450ECA_zpscauhga2u.jpg

Getting ready to install piston #6. Set crank pulley to U6.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/B9F48818-BF63-412D-8A84-657213D6E6C8_zpsng5m2zol.jpg

Here is our piston compressor. Piece of crap. I would go with Martin's suggestion of getting a fixed size one. This one was troublesome to work with.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/029A1287-33D2-44F8-9D33-D77DDC842910_zps0cg8demw.jpg

#6 done.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/FD864D84-090A-47B4-8C8A-BE75D479EDC9_zps6nyf6ygw.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/9fe41c0d-7336-4e4c-a99f-0fd799e95d1b_zpsda8270d9.png

Getting ready to install piston #5. Set crank pulley to U5.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/8C740AAE-886E-4332-BC7E-DA792E5B2494_zpstgvqy1bj.jpg

#5 done.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/0e8e4508-8fcb-4ebc-a717-5aac724e0715_zps0b63f1d3.png

Getting ready to install piston #4. Set crank pulley to U4.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/76396918-8F05-4565-B818-1FE82934D372_zpsgznge0y7.jpg

#4 done.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/597776CF-4BC8-4D6D-A8D5-C7548D98C5C3_zps9qji7xfp.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/7a91018e-b4dd-40d3-b6a2-e3e9cc0df83b_zps56302c13.png

As it sits at the end of today.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/9F745975-B658-438E-8009-EE49B7D00E68_zps1zf1nekp.jpg

Next up is the completion of the short block. We need to finish up the sump, IMS flange, and oil pump console installation. Most of those parts need to be cleaned too, so it'll be a bit of work.

[roundel]

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/9fe41c0d-7336-4e4c-a99f-0fd799e95d1b_zpsda8270d9.png

Money shot!

[N0tt0N]

Well done, brother! That's awesome.

[987kmns]

Thanks guys! It should be smooth sailing from here on out until we get to the timing.

[Rob VN]

Mihnea,
Nice work. The circlip installation is what spooks me on a rebuild but you made it look easy. Have you seen the Youtube multi-part video on 986 engine rebuild? He goes through setting the cam timing sort of quickly but with your tool set it should doable.

+1 on the press. I originally got it to service the many Volvo suspension bushings in the family fleet. There is only so much you can do with a bench vise. My Harbor Freight press needed an intervention by my local machine shop after I bent the top piece above the bottle jack. The jack was stronger than the top structure. Now it is stronger than the jack.

Rob

[987kmns]

Yep. That guy is awesome - especially since he tackled the rebuild early on when there was a lot less info about it out there and made his own tools.

The circlip installation is fine once you practice and increase your confidence. Ion and I spent a while practicing installing each piston on the 4 - 6 case, in my kitchen, making sure to (1) index the tool for correct circlip orientation and depth and (2) also figure out how to use the bore scope for circlip orientation and assessing proper installation. We used both the indexing and the bore scope for added confidence. With regard to the actual insertion of the clip using the tool, we never had any issues with a circlip not being seated properly. Including pistons 1 - 3 and the practice we did on 4 - 6, we installed 15 circlips and the installation was perfect the first time, every time. Finally, say you mess up - what's the downside? Just a little wasted time as you quickly unbolt the case and clean the sealing surfaces again. Assuming that you do the piston installation right after joining the cases, the sealant should be easier to clean as it wouldn't even be fully cured. This thought process gave me more confidence in tackling the job. With your level of experience, I think you'll see it's a non-issue once you practice once or twice.

[987kmns]

Today I started cleaning the next round of parts. Here they are.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/80DDBDC7-FB0C-4A33-BDA8-59DB87061251_zpsqune6lzx.jpg

I focused mostly on the oil pan for now. Nasty starting point.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/D2FCAEEA-1AF7-4B0A-92BE-AB23308231C5_zpswr3jbzqn.jpg

I think the oil pan was removed at some point and reinstalled with a lot of sealant.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/4202428C-23E8-4988-8308-F00D5299C3D2_zpseixcnsgc.jpg

A lot of sealant was necessary because it looks like someone cleaned it with a grinding wheel in the past. Sweet. We'll have to see how it seals for me.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/37183804-B8CC-4FB9-BF2E-9CBC3F3EF158_zps5mppykb0.jpg

Looking a little better.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/23886B7D-014A-4D50-9180-D01987DA7B74_zpsckekbzhg.jpg

I think I'm going to take a break for a few days. Happy Holidays everyone!

[N0tt0N]

Yum! Gotta love that 5900 generously applied! Your sump pickup didn't look clogged so I guess most of the 5900 was still attached to the pan face and you scraped it off?

The stock oil pan actually has a burled face to it that ripples under a scraper knife, I assume for adhesion although it IS made in Belgium... Maybe that's what you noticed?

Enjoy your time off. Funny, with my time off I hope to do what you're doing when you're not taking time off... Where does all the time go?!?!?!?!

[987kmns]

There was a little bit of 5900 in the pickup as well. I had done some cleaning on that before taking the photo. Luckily, most of the gobs of 5900 stuck to the pan and have now been removed.

Yep, I know what you mean about the ripples on the sealing surface of the pan. My photo doesn't how it, but in some areas those seem to have been ground off, that's what had me worried.

[Rob VN]

Mihnea,
To try and keep up with your project I've been reading my $8 Ebay shop manual. They go so far as to want the crank shaft pulley seal installed deeper than the old one to ensure the new seal rides on a fresh spot on the crankshaft.

What do you plan to do with the cylinder heads? In distant past I would leak check the valves sealing with gasoline. At your mileage I'd guess your valve stem seals are toast and probably the valve guides too. I've read that the 986 valve guides actually last longer than the 9A1 valve guides because the 986 ones are longer.

Anyway enjoy your time off. I'll be playing with my new Sears ATV lift that Santa brought me.

We came back from visiting the grand kids in Atlanta. The Porsche sign is off the old headquarters building on Hammond Drive in preparation for the move to the new HQ at what used to be the Ford Taurus plant I believe. Our new Cayenne diesel returned a calculated 36.8 MPG and is still breaking in. I'm happy with that.

Regards,

Rob

[HughA44s]

Mihnea, Enjoy seeing the progress and impressive attention to detail!
V/R
Hugh A.

[987kmns]

Rob - That's awesome news regarding your new Cayenne diesel. My tow vehicle for the Cayman is my wife's DD, which is an 08 Cayenne S. The V8 tows nicely, but MPGs are appalling. I'm looking forward to a used diesel when the prices come down a bit.

I'm planning on leaving the valves (and heads in general) alone. The wear seemed very reasonable and I wasn't burning any oil, so I'm not going to touch them. I will do some valve cleaning and the gasoline test (or similar) soon.

Make sure to post a link - or better yet - a thread here when you get going on the Cayman.


Hugh - Thanks a lot!

[987kmns]

There is a little progress to report today. I finished cleaning and assembling the oil sump plate. Here it is cleaned up, ready for installation.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/3360B5DF-0CC9-43FC-9DD8-48CFFCCA9D24_zpsmrl3y0vd.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/6EC39195-E84E-4396-9D0B-A51964BD4627_zpsoiqnbrid.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/43D27035-8DB8-431E-8A1C-B2664E891E59_zpsdt77sjwr.jpg

Then it was time to install the in-sump AOSs and oil pick-up tube.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/07BF6A71-F29C-4269-AC19-BFFC6F1D1DA0_zpsyirnmoye.jpg

Here is the bead of Drei Bond, masterfully placed by Ion.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/CA16A88D-83EE-4870-B666-55DBE972CA0A_zpsxdzatjbn.jpg

And done.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/1180E91E-77DE-45CC-AEB6-6E06C4B2BF66_zpsjljohmlx.jpg

Next, I installed the chain ramps. Old and new to compare the wear.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/E170DBC9-3C2B-4328-9356-69D7BD652251_zpskd0itiay.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/6DDDC59B-5685-4ED9-BCE2-9D7A01CECF28_zpsv1volxxz.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/16C46784-EC6A-4EF2-A9C6-F47A42BA4E63_zpsagtcpik5.jpg

Chain ramps and chain ramp bolts ready for installation. I cleaned, greased the bolts, and replaced the o-rings.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/1955FBD9-36D4-4211-8144-41E44ABDA40B_zpsi77mhctu.jpg

Chain ramps in place on both banks.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/2580704F-F87B-46E0-99DF-A6847910EC1C_zpsjnlyvpsh.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/ED0FFF63-55A9-4874-9281-C13DC7C48A38_zpsqrsuhgz6.jpg

To finish up the short block, I need to install the water housing and oil pump, but I'm missing one of the metal gaskets for the water housing. While the part is making its way here, I will go back to cleaning parts. It's time to start working on the heads.

[Rob VN]

Mihnea,
OK on your heads, my thinking was that all the carbon on your piston tops might have come from the valve stem seals since your rings and cylinder bores were in great shape. I don't have an immediate project for the Cayman but am anticipating a clutch job after this upcoming season of AX is done.

I did try to buy a used diesel Cayenne but they hold their value quite so well that for a few more pence we got a new one locally. This will be my wife's DD also. The towing capacity is quite robust which will come in handy towing the Habitat electrical trailer to the different job sites. Hard to believe the diesel is now the base model Cayenne but that works for me and it seems to get better mileage than the eHybrid. My son told me I'm the only Cayenne owner obsessed with fuel mileage. This is the same son who told me I was too old to have a mid life crisis when I bought the Cayman at age 64....

Obligatory question: is your water pump 4 years or older?

Happy New Year

Rob

[987kmns]

The water pump is newer than 4 years (probably 1 or 2) as I've been replacing belts, water pumps, spark plugs, etc., etc. as I piled on the miles.

It's never too late (or too early for that matter) to buy a Cayman, if you're a person who enjoys driving. By the looks of things, a gen 1 Cayman like ours can be had for Toyota Camry money or cheaper. If you can do your own maintenance, than the ownership cost is reasonable too and I would argue that the Cayman is a better car...:)

I'm always surprised by how many folks make the (wrong) assumption that owning a Porsche is not feasible for the average person.

[ausgeflippt951]

Looking great! Happy new year, all.

[987kmns]

Looking great! Happy new year, all.

Happy New Year to you too, Colin, and the rest of the Dorki family.

[987kmns]

Today I started out by replacing the oil cooler (warmer) o-rings, cleaning it, and installing it.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/853793FD-5AA7-494A-93B7-92BA84410739_zpsfm7jliff.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/1E2BF434-CBFE-47A7-A4E3-36D2E647E2C9_zpsopej46bi.jpg

Then, I started cleaning bank 1 components. First up was the valve tappet housing. Dirty.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/4F2A61AF-E7B1-4C94-AC04-743B07392617_zps4nkpepik.jpg

Better.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/99E68BBD-2052-4277-B1A4-96713B98A7FA_zpsc8r7kdfo.jpg

Then I moved on to the valve cover. Dirty.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/631F984A-46BC-4C86-8C0D-5436913725C0_zpspfjyxhqy.jpg

Better.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/9D044BE7-76FE-43EF-9460-090C668C71DE_zpsmtd2fz9o.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/D7F160A6-A78A-44AF-BAAC-73136C3C7BE9_zpsmx0vfwnl.jpg

Last thing today, I tackled the head. I forgot to take before photos, but I can show that on bank 2. Here it is cleaned up.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/1D29DB79-ABC6-48A4-9CE5-A6A65AFBC6A5_zpsfid9o9cw.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/2F60ABBA-5FEF-4505-B008-E8BD06285457_zpsdh1qj36n.jpg

Valves are a little cleaner too.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/572A3C1F-79E6-4188-9CB0-12DF86ACF28A_zpssjh6wqac.jpg

Finally, I decided to check the valve seal on the head by filling the head with some ChemDip. It looks like a perfect seal to me. The hope is that the ChemDip will help with the carbon deposits as well.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/41100B98-B3AE-4D47-AEE8-53F31A603156_zps8mpobcgt.jpg

All said and done, this took 8 hours. I am hoping to repeat this entire process for bank 2 this weekend. After that, I can get busy installing the heads.

[987kmns]

Tonight I finished cleaning the bank 1 head. I was able to clean the intake valves, but the exhaust valves have deposits that seem to be as hard as diamond. There may be a business opportunity there for me...

Anyway, here is the finished product.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/9D27A5F4-5296-4407-87F7-F2940D07649E_zpsxizx2cre.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/CA0BC30B-1846-45A5-85B0-80BB34B10820_zpsnabhtdre.jpg

As promised, here is what the bank 2 head looks like before cleaning.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/C9687B00-A9E6-4509-9CD1-94CAF6307F4B_zpsa5wjs9mc.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/B725E110-6D7C-4757-99BE-6B80985EF2F0_zpsx0pwdaph.jpg

The plan is to clean all bank 2 components tomorrow.

[Rob VN]

Mihnea,
You are rolling right along. Have you thought about having your injectors cleaned? I continue to be obsessed with the source of all the carbon build up on your pistons. One of the members on 986 Forum told me about RC Fuel Injectors. They clean and flow check your injectors for way less than new injectors.

When you clean the larger engine pieces are you using a parts cleaner machine or tub?

How were you able to install the RMS and the pulley seal? Did you use the Porsche tools or a substitute? I could see some PVC adapters being pressed into service. I noticed that Samstag sells the RMS tool for about $275 while Suncoast is asking $336. Maybe you can borrow them.

Regards,

Rob

[987kmns]

Rob - I actually already had the pistons professionally cleaned and serviced a couple years ago. They also calibrated the jets, but it seemed that the pistons were performing all right even before the service. These services usually send you some printouts indicating before and after performance. Mine were improved by the cleaning and calibration process, but they weren't too out of whack to begin with.

I don't have a parts cleaner on hand due to the limited space in my garage, so cleaning the parts (large and small) has been a struggle. I've been using various plastic bins, metal trays, etc.

I haven't yet installed the front pulley seal or the RMS. In the past, I replaced these using the trusted PVC adapter method. I use a rubber mallet to slowly push the seal in, moving around the perimeter and I use a digital caliper to measure how far it's gone on all sides. Porsche recommends using their tool, which drives the seal in to an exact - predetermined depth. In my case, I like to vary the depth because there end up being some wear marks on the crank, so that same exact area may not seal as well anymore.

[987kmns]

Ion came over today and we made some good progress together. We started off by cleaning all bank 2 components. Then, we moved on to cleaning the old head bolts. There are two different metal grades for the OEM head bolts. The lower grade requires replacement, the higher grade (found on later engines) can be reused. In my case, I had the higher grade bolts and opted to reuse them. Here they are all cleaned up.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/E9EEDF4D-C5CB-4263-9CF6-4B19C88FDEC7_zpsulwulyj8.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/E90886EE-58D4-473E-8F5F-2FD31366DE5E_zpsmwjzofwx.jpg

Here is all the bank 2 hardware before being cleaned.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/FD140DE1-945D-4DDC-975A-A39DFCC71BE8_zpspowh2tqh.jpg

The engine ready to receive the cylinder 4 -6 head.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/D6FE0A02-D66F-4827-921D-BB537AD95DC9_zpshwxqgnyf.jpg

Head gasket on.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/1343AA03-F875-469B-BD88-88014575B02F_zpsgpzskx0d.jpg

Cylinder head on.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/67361638-C2F8-4E83-8B4C-4CA472CECAA1_zps0jxdgsdy.jpg

Head bolts in and torqued.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/A66B8C10-34CB-4ED9-888D-7016507C5120_zpsmxc41agg.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/B7A4A509-5A52-4835-BB43-EEA45D724142_zpsw9ztozdr.jpg

Block getting bigger. Getting there.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/43BB1760-A8E1-4161-8594-E87B10B9D86E_zpsfsla98cp.jpg

Valve tappet guide installed.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/6AE0CB7A-6789-4EA7-9F6E-5CEE303A1533_zps0gtymgr5.jpg

AOS vent line chuck attached, camshaft position sensor installed, and a cable harness bracket also installed.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/2C5EDAB9-4FA5-4962-8600-583F470C0CF1_zpsoh0cckxu.jpg

Time to repeat the process on bank 1.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/E29801DB-E730-4D21-8407-12B893F0FF3F_zps7pgdj97n.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/CAAB7BB4-5310-48EE-8382-C5FE1DA392A8_zpsjrhwrcin.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/F5A1F21E-8C28-446F-A79E-DFAC09D7C803_zpslnwubviv.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/BEA91E9A-440E-4E2B-B653-F34C28C9333F_zpsvprq0geq.jpg

Finished product for tonight.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/5A424F2A-E1C6-431F-A063-5924E9DD1D8C_zpsjthphmuy.jpg

[N0tt0N]

What are you going to do with all that free shelf space? Lol. Well done!

[BillC]

Wow! It's really starting to look like and engine.

Are you sure you're doing that right? :p

[987kmns]

What are you going to do with all that free shelf space?

I'm going to have to take down the shelves in order to drive the car out of the garage. Space is tight.

Wow! It's really starting to look like and engine.

Are you sure you're doing that right? :p

No.

[Lupin..the..3rd]

These photos are really nice, keep 'em coming!

[987kmns]

These photos are really nice, keep 'em coming!

Thanks! Will do.

[987kmns]

Today we made less progress than yesterday, but still got some good work done.

The IMS bearing flange was installed. Here is a sequence of photos with one component being added in each picture.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/73A33541-DF34-4A54-8963-C88BBC872C71_zpsligmta6r.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/6B473533-3CAE-4373-86BA-A039C18B012C_zpshhmzyp53.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/BB39EE5E-A046-42CA-B23A-7BE41098E27D_zpsamldfsa9.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/838D326C-44C4-4B79-BFFC-DD69F95B370B_zpsdvd0nh27.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/93BB0436-7645-40AB-8015-C3171B5479D8_zpseufdm68p.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/E74B1CEA-C0CF-4A67-B766-E689DCEF8CAB_zps0lepwye1.jpg

Then it was on the getting the VarioCam units ready for installation. Camshaft assembly ready for disassembly.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/02D4B619-F02C-459F-AB2E-6457DAE16F1B_zpsdoxzklyf.jpg

Wear on chain rail.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/3F432928-C191-49C6-8F3D-B1B1BE9E5D83_zps9dc5kvm8.jpg

VarioCam unit separated for cleaning.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/DDA19AEC-2506-418C-8531-E3B31AAC7ED6_zpskewc3reg.jpg

Old vs. new chain rails.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/7968DCC1-7B83-4035-808D-51C7FB7DFEC4_zpsle8lqzyb.jpg

Then, we spent the rest of the day making the left-hand threaded tool to compress the VarioCam units prior to installation.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/0A82CC32-B667-4BF2-BF0E-30BA1B2AFC89_zpsgqgfdgsb.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/5BC10671-C062-4FAD-A4E2-BA0C9CF1D3D8_zpss2cxp60o.jpg

Time to install them.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/F1645797-C515-4786-8FE5-D0921A741A50_zpsogju7k0p.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/F53260F3-6F68-4005-8501-23C687712B33_zpsol1gceps.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/F53260F3-6F68-4005-8501-23C687712B33_zpsol1gceps.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/FA29E215-8861-49AF-B6F4-A7129ED94061_zpsm5m4hali.jpg

And the camshaft allocation on bank 1 is finally complete.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/99D292AF-860B-4179-9E0A-32EDE8229A52_zpsqvoic5jh.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/24D3FF59-7A0D-478F-AF93-915F64B08EA6_zpsr4zvsqib.jpg

[Nerfbar]

A new centerpiece? This is the best porn I've seen all week. Pistons, cylinders, cranks are all over the place but this is the first time I've seen pics of the vario so I could start to understand how it works. Thanks.

[N0tt0N]

Barry, and your Cayman has Vario Plus which is even cooler! :)

[Ryan]

I know nothing about motor rebuilds or Boxsters, but fun thread to read. keep it coming...

[Nerfbar]

Barry, and your Cayman has Vario Plus which is even cooler! :)

What's the plus? It should be minus; minus the IMS.

[N0tt0N]

VarioCam is a single advance adjustment (something like 14degrees via a solenoid acting on the chains) to the intake valves that is triggered at a fixed RPM.

VarioCam Plus is a continuous advance adjustment (better via a rotary vane) to the intake valves PLUS it actually has a separate cam lobes that are used at low RPM (with less advance) and at high load/RPM (with more advance) using a different valve tappet that locks the center portion up or down to contact those lobes rather than the main ones.

[Nerfbar]

VarioCam is a single advance adjustment (something like 14degrees via a solenoid acting on the chains) to the intake valves that is triggered at a fixed RPM.

VarioCam Plus is a continuous advance adjustment (better via a rotary vane) to the intake valves PLUS it actually has a separate cam lobes that are used at low RPM (with less advance) and at high load/RPM (with more advance) using a different valve tappet that locks the center portion up or down to contact those lobes rather than the main ones.

I'm snowed. We need someone to take one apart on their dining room table so I can see a picture.

[N0tt0N]

Coming soon to a dining room table this summer - a 2008 3.4. This winter is another 2002 3.2 like this one :)

[spiffyjiff]

I'm snowed. We need someone to take one apart on their dining room table so I can see a picture.

and I need someone to explain this entire thread to me in english (i'm so "engineerically" challenged. sigh.) :? :oops: :cry:

you 2 are def my new heroes.

[N0tt0N]

If I hadn't found Dorki (and Rob VN on Planet-9) and the folks that hang out here I'd still be staring awkwardly at the cashier while waiting in the lobby at the dealership for my windshield wiper fluid to be changed. This place is awesome and inspiring!

[HughA44s]

Somehow the phrase "anally retentive" keeps coming to mind when ever I look at this thread.
Continued great stuff!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[BMAN]

Are the new, smooth, chain rails same as the original? Did the chain cut slots into the rails of the original? Or are the new rails a different design?

[987kmns]

Are the new, smooth, chain rails same as the original? Did the chain cut slots into the rails of the original? Or are the new rails a different design?

Amazingly, the new chain rails are NOT a new design. The wear on the old ones simply shows how much the chains have sliced through the plastic. On one of them, the chain had gone clear through.

[987kmns]

Coming soon to a dining room table this summer - a 2008 3.4.

I probably need to look into changing the chain ramps on my Cayman 3.4 as well. Camshaft deviation numbers are starting to go up. Not nearly as bad, but I'd like for it to be in better shape for the track.

[987kmns]

A new centerpiece? This is the best porn I've seen all week. Pistons, cylinders, cranks are all over the place but this is the first time I've seen pics of the vario so I could start to understand how it works. Thanks.

I know nothing about motor rebuilds or Boxsters, but fun thread to read. keep it coming...

Somehow the phrase "anally retentive" keeps coming to mind when ever I look at this thread.
Continued great stuff!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thank you gents!

[BMAN]

the chain had gone clear through.

Wow! Novariocam

[DonNewton]

While catching up with your progress, I noticed you mentioned the head bolts. In the air-cooled world, you really don't want to reuse your "stretched" head bolts. Is this accepted in the water-cooled engines (presumably the deltas from cold to hot are more/better controlled?). I really don't know, just asking.

[987kmns]

While catching up with your progress, I noticed you mentioned the head bolts. In the air-cooled world, you really don't want to reuse your "stretched" head bolts. Is this accepted in the water-cooled engines (presumably the deltas from cold to hot are more/better controlled?). I really don't know, just asking.

I was surprised by that too (but in a good way due to the cost savings). The factory manual specifies that 10.9 grade head bolts can be reused, but not some of the earlier, lower grade. I can post the exact grades that need to be replaced and those that need to be reused later.

[987kmns]

Ion and I got some more work done today. First off, we cleaned the front console and oil pump. Here they are ready to go back together.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/8453A05A-D20F-4549-B826-CAAA508E90F5_zpsygwapxjo.jpg

Oil pump assembled. Gears missing at this point.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/42E21CC4-0501-4B1A-A86C-46CD2719F00D_zps4ur4ykkr.jpg

Block ready for front console installation.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/7CFAD6AC-EF1B-4E8C-B8A5-098CAC607044_zpss7tjswag.jpg

Front console installed.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/32D82671-09AC-45DF-A773-B7FB35E2EAB0_zpscjzwwxxh.jpg

Oil pump gears installed with a new OEM pump drive shaft.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/C568993D-7DFF-48C4-8035-B0F39ABAD62F_zps5fgyl2k7.jpg

Oil pump installed.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/5A7636BF-9DAA-423D-AFFA-96B3324703AA_zpsqc24c2yh.jpg

The IMS to crank chain tensioner then went in.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/9D2EEB45-84E1-4691-8EE7-1FB29151DFA8_zpsdbqpzyn7.jpg

In the meantime we boiled some lifters in fresh oil and brought them down for installation.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/0F93DB85-EC01-4A6C-BBC9-D03451D34A5D_zpsl9jeyvrf.jpg

Lifters installed.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/C5B86FEF-22F3-4E5C-9970-03264214B8C6_zpsiue9mvez.jpg

Bank 1 camshafts installed.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/249FCE55-68A6-4785-8499-EA8367451C62_zpsoorocikm.jpg

The end is now in sight.

[Nerfbar]

Did you cook them on the stovetop in your kitchen?

[N0tt0N]

Beignets! :cool:

Almost there!

[987kmns]

Did you cook them on the stovetop in your kitchen?

Of course.

[Nerfbar]

Of course.

I think we need a new thread to post the most outrageous things that wives have put up with to allow husbands to pursue this hobby.

[N0tt0N]

Reading Dorki would have to be on that list...

[ausgeflippt951]

I think we need a new thread to post the most outrageous things that wives have put up with to allow husbands to pursue this hobby.

Ain't that the truth.

[987kmns]

Quick update tonight. We got the bank 2 camshafts installed and finished the timing.

Bank 2 VarioCam chain guides (old vs. new).

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/610C86DB-6088-4CD2-ADB8-DFD74E9B719C_zps9vubiyjb.jpg

Lifters installed.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/46C99864-7714-4E56-B035-0819BFF93FF9_zpsuiwmzoeo.jpg

Camshafts installed.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/EF9D11CC-C7E0-4D24-9762-FB42355415D2_zpsoub3wjcs.jpg

Bank 2 chain tensioner installed.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/5EF7E17A-A4D4-4BF8-959A-A772B6976D36_zpsa4hjrssx.jpg

Bank 1 timing done.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/D19BA4D3-6F93-42F6-9BF4-E8024B4E2025_zpswr696jah.jpg

Bank 2 timing done.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/7FDCE362-29D6-4466-B2D0-ECA873882ACB_zpsmymaehyr.jpg

And that's it. The next step is to add the valve covers, tackle a few odds and ends, and put the engine back down on the ATV jack.

[N0tt0N]

Did you wonder why some parts are marked Intake/Exhaust and others are marked Einlass/Auslass? LOL! Yeah, let's mix up those E's! Great job man! Can I borrow your solenoid compressor tool you built? :)

[BMAN]

Let me know when you're ready for a DFI. Cheater parts are welcome!!

[987kmns]

Can I borrow your solenoid compressor tool you built? :)

Absolutely!

Let me know when you're ready for a DFI. Cheater parts are welcome!!

Anytime

[Rob VN]

Mihnea,
You are making great progress. I await ignition.

I admit to putting my 1962 Ford 390 flywheel gear in the oven while the flywheel went in the freezer when living at home in 1964. My Father was party to that caper.

Rob

[987kmns]

Mihnea,
You are making great progress. I await ignition.

I admit to putting my 1962 Ford 390 flywheel gear in the oven while the flywheel went in the freezer when living at home in 1964. My Father was party to that caper.

Rob

I've been using the kitchen in some unapproved ways, but I like to think that I always cleaned up the evidence.

[987kmns]

Tonight we finished the engine assembly. Tomorrow I'll tackle the auxiliary components. I'll leave some pics to show the progress.

Bank 2 valve cover installed.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/4A9BD2AA-FFC4-4308-95E6-969417192D1B_zpstzozlngy.jpg

Bank 2 oil pump installed.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/2F1C98E2-41DB-4B57-92A0-AF4D032457F8_zpsukuuctto.jpg

Spark plugs.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/F151AE7D-ECCB-42DF-8E71-29A82C876554_zpsvnqejq5e.jpg

Spark plug tubes.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/6B5AA58F-DA31-40A1-84CF-9B9C9192231F_zpsxvwi3rxw.jpg

Ignition coils.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/CC2CC993-84A7-4412-A1A3-0EB99DF20A96_zpsatkekroo.jpg

We then repeated the process on bank 1.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/9BD395BC-B289-4720-B85B-722FA83E9E49_zps4gbkbfnz.jpg

Next, we installed the headers. Without.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/E907D19A-9FA1-421F-B6D1-9B7FE474EDD3_zps6t8omp9q.jpg

With.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/66723A50-4657-441F-A114-7FDCDD3F338B_zps99tcyxvt.jpg

And final product for the night. Ready to be moved to the ATV jack. (We actually got it moved over, but I didn't take a picture as I couldn't feel my fingers with the garage door open for the engine hoist.)

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/D11EB6FE-2DA9-49C6-8A02-47E01C14CD47_zpshwex5rdk.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/85FEB7F2-B713-461C-A3B5-90301B0EBFC8_zpsaupadbxb.jpg

[Nerfbar]

I've been using the kitchen in some unapproved ways, but I like to think that I always cleaned up the evidence.

Perhaps if you'd cooked your lifters in olive oil with a little butter.

[HughA44s]

I vote for a Dyno run after completion - The results determine a passing grade or not. Neat Stuff!!!!!!!!!

[987kmns]

So here was the starting point this morning - engine on ATV jack, no auxiliaries installed.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/02ED7173-FC41-4D58-967A-A4E61C19E54B_zpshwdfy5dj.jpg

I didn't take many photos today, but below are some taken along the way as we installed the auxiliaries.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/10DEE8C6-6641-46D6-9F99-69941326C0F0_zpspumcq6km.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/A7221CDE-346F-4DC6-AB65-36FF04E7E7AE_zpspa8bvtvo.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/52843DB0-6F0F-4924-A11C-D9942B9BCC18_zpsrvavbral.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/819D0131-287D-401B-86D3-CAD20B478445_zpss1fxtk5q.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/530C3F2D-0B59-4E61-AECE-47A919BEE97A_zpsoau6ick0.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/548B3904-77B4-4E72-AA44-139E9FCBE947_zpsqn5fnxvs.jpg

And here is the last photo for today.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/50F7112B-2CD3-4F2D-9250-2572CED2993B_zpsqdqh6qsd.jpg

[spiffyjiff]

hurry hurry and fire it up, will you?!? the suspense is killing me!!! you guys are in the home stretch. awesome man, simply awesome.

[N0tt0N]

Minhea,
I have two BMW tire hangers to smooth the tranny install :) At this point it look like the most painful remaining step :) Great job - depressing actually given how fast you've done it. Sigh... :)

[HughA44s]

Got to ask - Don't know how many engine rebuild threads I have read where people did not have oil pressure on initial start-up and can't figure out why. Did you remember to prime the oil pump? Don't know if it is required on these engines or if the config requires it but had to ask.

Again - Great Stuff.

[987kmns]

Thanks guys. On the oil pump question, I did try to prime it as best I could with engine oil. I am also planning on taking out the fuel pump fuse on first start up to give the oil pump a chance to generate some pressure before really turning the engine over quickly. Based on the design, it looks like it would take a long time to get oil all the way out to the heads.

[N0tt0N]

And you primed the chain tensioners

[smdubovsky]

Fluid will take path of least resistance. It will displace almost all the air, filling all the tubes, and then suddenly develop oil pressure everywhere at the same time. You can't develop multiple bar of pressure at the mains while there is still an empty passages/tubes going out to the heads. If you used assembly lube it should be fine while you crank (w/o fuel pump fuse as you mentioned.)

[Rob VN]

Mihnea,
+1 on cranking with the fuel pump fuse pulled.

Rob

[987kmns]

Yep.

And a little more progress today. Transmission is in and motor and trans are back on their mounts. It won't be long now.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/E6455513-C3FE-4367-BDBA-73E1BE84A324_zpsiqia9usr.jpg
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/874BC7E8-B7D4-43DC-BF0C-685CC6E9EE4F_zpsprp6jfps.jpg

[ausgeflippt951]

Hot damn! Able to fire it up tonight?

[987kmns]

No, sadly the next time I'll be able to work on it is Thursday, so hopefully then.

[987kmns]

Since I didn't get a chance to work on the car today, I don't have any updates. Here are a couple photos I edited on my phone. I was just playing around with some psychedelic colors.

First, the valve tappet housing, which is a beautifully made piece and also incredibly light to hold.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/7E0FE8D3-C207-45D4-A193-354E976AD7AC_zpsh2qpsncp.jpg

And then the tappets installed in the head.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/1BB2FCFB-E552-498F-8589-6F700F5F0A90_zpskmhb5txf.jpg

[987kmns]

Well, it started and it runs well. Off to bed. More details tomorrow.

[roundel]

Congratulations!

[N0tt0N]

Woot! Way to go, man! Congratulations to you and Ion. Very impressive.

[BMAN]

Off to bed.

4am post, I guess so.

Congrats!

[ausgeflippt951]

Wow, 4:12am ON A SCHOOL NIGHT?!

Congratulations!

[vranko]

Congrats! Very impressed.

[Jazzbass]

Well, it started and it runs well. Off to bed. More details tomorrow.
Such a small post for something so significant. Congratulations.

[987kmns]

Thanks guys! It's been a fun project. I will try to post a small video and new camshaft deviations at some point today.

EDIT: Here is the small video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zu4p2rbW0r0

[spiffyjiff]

you two are the man. (grammatically incorrect but sentimentally spot on :) )

[ausgeflippt951]

Is your wife away on rounds or is she just that awesome? ;)

Did you remember the rotary girder and headlight fluid?

[spiffyjiff]

Did you remember the rotary girder and headlight fluid?

why you gotta be like that, cut it out will ya?? cuz we all know it's blinker fluid. not headlight. sheesh.

[987kmns]

Is your wife away on rounds or is she just that awesome? ;)

A fortunate combination of both. Now, if I could only get her to do some DEs ;)

Did you remember the rotary girder and headlight fluid?

Obviously!

[N0tt0N]

Only Air-cooled Porsches need Blinker (sometimes erroneously referred to as Headlight <scoff>) Fluid (Part# 930-485-542-53). Water cooled, including 924/944/928s already have fluid, silly boy. Its the Turboencabulator you need to ensure is correctly degaussed.

[HughA44s]

Very Cool!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Rob VN]

Mihnea,

Nice job done amazingly quickly.

Rob

[Lupin..the..3rd]

DIY M96 rebuild in 6 weeks flat. :shock: Impressive stuff, nice work!

[987kmns]

Thanks guys! And here are the final camshaft deviations.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae315/mihneabirisan/Boxster%20S%20Engine%20Rebuild/986CamDeviationPostRebuild_zps63479db4.png

As I understand these are factory-like values or better.

I got to drive the car a few miles tonight and I have to say that the engine is transformed! The smoothness is incredible. It has more low end torque and more top end life. All the work was definitely worth it. Because I opted to retain some major components that seemed to be in good shape, the price tag came in at just under $2k, which is extremely cheap for an M96 rebuild. I'm very happy.

A big thank you to my brother, Ion (fcotanis), for all his help and my wife for not divorcing me while I used our kitchen as a workshop and disappeared to the garage for the past 6 weeks.

[987kmns]

DIY M96 rebuild in 6 weeks flat. :shock: Impressive stuff, nice work!

Yeah, one week for each of the 6 cylinders.

[ausgeflippt951]

That's genuinely impressive! Fantastic job; you are definitely worthy of such a good end result.

[spiffyjiff]

Awesome, guys! Too bad you didn't have a dyno before/after so you could measure the actual power gain.

And Mihnea, be honest, cuz we all know what this project REALLY was - a trial run for your preemptive track car rebuild!! :p

[BMAN]

the engine is transformed!

a trial run for your preemptive track car rebuild!! :p

No doubt. It's on!

[987kmns]

And Mihnea, be honest, cuz we all know what this project REALLY was - a trial run for your preemptive track car rebuild!! :p

No doubt. It's on!

It's not a secret. It'll be a while though as I need to pony up the cash to buy those fancy internals.

[987kmns]

A big thank you to my brother, Ion (fcotanis), for all his help and my wife for not divorcing me while I used our kitchen as a workshop and disappeared to the garage for the past 6 weeks.

I don't know how I overlooked this. A huge thank you also goes out to Martin (N0tt0n) for his support throughout. He was gracious enough to lend me some tools that would have been quite expensive to source otherwise and shared his knowledge with me when needed. Thanks man!

[N0tt0N]

Bah! I wish could claim even a tiny bit of credit. It was great getting to watch sibling interaction.

M: Did you put assembly lube on the bearings
I: Not yet
M: Do that
I: I will
M: Do that
I: I am
M: Mix the lube with oil
I: I'm going to use just the lube
M: with oil
I: ...
M: with oil
I: ...
M: Are you going to put on more than that?
I: I put on this much
M: Maybe more?
I: This is how much I put on
M: I don't think more would be bad
I: ...
M: That looks good the way you did it. Should we go ahead and put this together?
I: I thought we were going to stop here
M: Don't you want to put it together (holding torque wrench)
I: ...
M: Lift your end of the crank
I: I am lifting it. Be careful.
M: I am being careful
I: Gently
M: ...
(etc.)

All this was actually in very even and quiet tones - like watching Seinfeld with the sound turned way down.

It was impressive watching such an effective team. <envy>

[987kmns]

Ha ha. That continued pretty much the same way for another 5 weeks or so.

[Gatorlapis]

Are the green bits from inside the tension chain unit? or the pads?