Cayenne S 2007-2010 (957) High Pressure Fuel Pump (HPFP) Replacement DIY

[987kmns]

My 2008 Cayenne S with 96,000 miles has been exhibiting fuel system issues. The problems started with long crank intervals and continued with loss of power, rough running, and eventually going into limp mode. Using my Durametric tool and the "actual values" menu I determined that the issues pointed to the HPFP. I compared the "fuel high pressure set point" and "fuel high pressure actual value" measurements and noticed that (1) at idle the car will require about 40 bar while the system was generating around 5.5 bar and that (2) the actual pressure value was unable to follow the set point value as throttle was applied. At full throttle the car will require about 120 bar, while my car was struggling to put out 20 to 30 bar. Also worth noting is that the low pressure fuel system (2 in-tank pumps) is supposed to supply a nominal pressure of about 5.5 bar. In other words, my high pressure system eventually failed completely and the car was simply running (poorly) on the low pressure system alone. Others here have had similar symptoms leading to the replacement of the HPFP. Following is a DIY replacement of the HPFP. I took the DIY route because Porsche will charge about 4 to 5 hours of labor for this job, which is actually reasonably simple for a DIYer. I sourced a remanufactured HPFP with an updated PN from Suncoast Porsche. There is a $90 core for the old pump and the total cost was around $850 after returning the core.

[987kmns]

Here are some step-by-step DIY instructions:

Remove the driver's side and rear engine bay cowling. Twist the plastic fasteners 90 degrees and they will pop out. Use a T25 torx to remove the two torx screws securing the rear cowling piece to the side pieces. Here is the engine bay with the cowling removed.

57100

The pump is located on the back of the driver's side engine head.

57099

There is a triangular metal shield behind the pump that needs to be removed first. It is number 16 in the diagram below. It's held in place by three 10mm bolts, number 17 in the diagram.

57103

The photo shows what you can actually see, looking at the engine. Indicated are some items that will make life easier if removed.
57098

Here is the shield, finally removed.

57097

I then removed one of the torx bolts for the engine hoist hook and zip tied it out of the way to give myself more room.

57107

Next, it's time to undo the high pressure fuel line going to the fuel rail.

57109

Now, remove the three bolts securing the pump to the block. Two of them are really long (labeled number 14 in the diagram above) and one is short (labeled number 13 in the diagram above). Leave number 15 alone as it does not go through the pump housing. All three are 10mm. Here is what the long ones look like.

57096

It's time to remove the pump. Jiggle it back until it comes out of the block. I don't have a picture of the electrical connector, but once the pump is free of the block, turn the pump until you can see the connector and undo it. You'll have to lift on a tab to free the connector. The low pressure fuel hose feeding the pump is flexible and can be removed after the pump is out. Here is the removed pump.

57110

And the low pressure line free.

57111

This is how all the parts are laid out. The three shield bolts screw into the top of the long pump bolts, which are threaded at the top.

57112

Prior to reassembly, it is important to determine whether the HPFP "clutch" has fallen off the end of the camshaft or not. The diagram below will help clarify the design. Number 5 in the diagram is the "clutch" while number 6 is a plastic stopper that is supposed to keep the clutch attached to the camshaft.

57102
57101

In my case, the plastic stopper had fallen apart and allowed the clutch to fall off and down into one of the underbody linings. I failed to notice this during the disassembly process and proceeded to install the new pump without the clutch. Unfortunately, the camshaft will not drive the pump without the clutch, so I had to redo the entire procedure, but first I had to purchase a new stopper.

57113

Here is the stopper and clutch together, as they should be attached to the camshaft.

57114

FOR NEXT STEPS PLEASE GO TO PAGE 4, POST #40.

[ausgeflippt951]

Great writeup, as always.

[N0tt0N]

Nice job! Thanks for sharing!

[BlackTalon]

Nominated for HOF

[Dr K]

Excellent write-up, photos, and labeling!

HOF?-->Thanks, Jazz.

[personalt]

can you tell me what value you read to get the high pressure value. I have a 2009 base and dont see any values about the fuel pump pressure.

My 2008 Cayenne S with 96,000 miles has been exhibiting fuel system issues. The problems started with long crank intervals and continued with loss of power, rough running, and eventually going into limp mode. Using my Durametric tool and the "actual values" menu I determined that the issues pointed to the HPFP. I compared the "fuel high pressure set point" and "fuel high pressure actual value" measurements and noticed that (1) at idle the car will require about 40 bar while the system was generating around 5.5 bar and that (2) the actual pressure value was unable to follow the set point value as throttle was applied. At full throttle the car will require about 120 bar, while my car was struggling to put out 20 to 30 bar. Also worth noting is that the low pressure fuel system (2 in-tank pumps) is supposed to supply a nominal pressure of about 5.5 bar. In other words, my high pressure system eventually failed completely and the car was simply running (poorly) on the low pressure system alone. Others here have had similar symptoms leading to the replacement of the HPFP. Following is a DIY replacement of the HPFP. I took the DIY route because Porsche will charge about 4 to 5 hours of labor for this job, which is actually reasonably simple for a DIYer. I sourced a remanufactured HPFP with an updated PN from Suncoast Porsche. There is a $90 core for the old pump and the total cost was around $850 after returning the core.

[87turbolook911]

Subscribed

[Vicegrip]

Thanks for the great writeup. Based on what I have been hearing it looks like this repair will not be uncommon.

[987kmns]

can you tell me what value you read to get the high pressure value. I have a 2009 base and dont see any values about the fuel pump pressure.

I used my Durametric tool to connect to the DME and clicked on the "Actual Values" menu under the Engine Management tab. If you scroll through the list (there are lots and lots of different sensor readings) you will see both "Fuel high pressure set point" and "Fuel high pressure actual value". Check the selection box next to these values and they'll be displayed at the bottom of the screen. The setpoint is what the DME is requesting from the pump and the actual value is what is being delivered.

[joep]

Very good writeup indeed, and good to know!

[GreyP!g]

First up I've got to say this has been an excellent write up and gave me the confidence to tackle my first adventure into the world of Porsche repairs.

I'll tell my story so far.....
The missus was driving and noticed smoke coming from the car after the CEL came on. On inspection of the vehicle running I could see a wisp of smoke at the right rear of the engine block. The engine cranked and was slow to start and was running rough.

The diagnosis
Searching the Internet with the symptoms took to me to pages like this of HPFP failures and the service campaign WA29. I contacted the local stealer who was able to confirm that my HPFP was replaced under that replacement program. I ordered a OBD code reader and obtained a fault code of P1026 that again identified the HPFP.

The uncertainty
Of all posts I had read, there was no mention of smoke prior to any pump failure. Of all these posts that talk about HPFP failures, just how do they fail? i just couldn't find anything that describes what the mechanism of failure is!

The removal
What part number do I have? Time to remove my pump. Again thanks to this write up I tackle the task and have it out in 30 minutes. After removal of the clutch I have a small black cap and 20 plus small plastic fragments on the inside of it. While reassembling this small black cap inside the clutch it pretty much disintegrated and fell to the floor. The HPFP part number I have is the same as the old pump number in this write up which shows a 2010 production date in line with the service campaign. The small plastic pieces I have once apon a time used to be the stopper.

My current theory
I'm not convinced the pump has actually failed. The pump turns and feels intact. There are no obvious signs of failure. The OP determined the new pump did not work without the stopper installed. Could it be that I just need a new stopper? And how many pumps have been replaced that may not have been shagged?

Ok whadasyallreckon?

[987kmns]

My current theory
I'm not convinced the pump has actually failed. The pump turns and feels intact. There are no obvious signs of failure. The OP determined the new pump did not work without the stopper installed. Could it be that I just need a new stopper? And how many pumps have been replaced that may not have been shagged?

Ok whadasyallreckon?

Small correction - I determined that the pump will not work without the clutch, not the stopper. My stopper was disintegrated too. When I removed the pump, the clutch fell into my underbody lining and I didn't realize it because I didn't know of its existence. I then went on to mount the pump without the clutch, which will not work because the camshaft will not spin it. The stopper is simply meant to make installation easier such that the clutch won't fall while trying to reinstall the pump.

To be honest, I don't think smoke was part of the failure symptoms of my pump. For what it's worth, my old pump which had failed also spun happily and there were not noticeable external signs of its failure. From what I understand, the pumps actually don't fail. It's the built-in one-way pressure valve that fails, thus making it impossible for the pump to generate pressure. The valve and pump are one single unit and would need specialized tools to repair. I'm pretty sure that's what the rebuilt pumps have replaced.

Finally, does your code reader have the ability to read the vehicle's "actual values"? If so, I would highly recommend checking to see if the generated pressure value matches the set point value. That's how I decided that my pump had failed.

[GreyP!g]

Thanks for that. I think you just shot down my theory.:(

My failure was sudden and I'm hoping the smoke was just the stopper dying. Probably not!

I've already ordered my $99.82 ease of installation stopper which I will pick up from the local stealer on Wednesday. I'll do a test fit to eliminate the theory and report back after that.

I'm not overly familiar with the capabilities of my code reader but I'll have a browse some of the menus on it when I get the pump refitted.

[Markar]

Hi new member here, I just ordered a new pump at $897.00 and thank's to this right up I found out about the stopper. Do I have to order this stopper separately? and the price is $70.00? and what is the part nb? and yes i do have smoke before the failure at 103,000 miles I wish i could do this work by myself but i don't have time. My Indy is doing it for me. Dealer wants $800 to install plus parts.

[987kmns]

If the stopper is broken, like mine was, it would be nice to replace it. It is no strictly necessary to make things work, but it would make installation much more difficult for your mechanic if it is missing. IIRC the price was about $70, yes. The PN for the stopper is 948-105-114-00.

[Markar]

Thank you, I just pick one up from Porsche of Rockville cost me $45 , I think they have the best prices in this area.

[PorscheTX928]

I have a pretty good scanner that actually allows me to see alot of additional information than what is usually available from a cheaper OBD scanner.
I just finished putting in about 1K dollars redoing low pressure fuel pumps, FPR and fuel filter. Now I find out that it might have been my HPFP all along. Ok, this part looks like it should be around 100 bucks, add Porsche mark up, around 400-500. I start looking and the cheapest price I can find is 1K????
I do not want to throw away another 1K to find out I have something else wrong. Has anyone looked into rebuilding, fixing, or salvage yard parts? I just dont see why this part is so expensive especially since it seems to be a common failure point.

[987kmns]

I start looking and the cheapest price I can find is 1K????
I do not want to throw away another 1K to find out I have something else wrong. Has anyone looked into rebuilding, fixing, or salvage yard parts? I just dont see why this part is so expensive especially since it seems to be a common failure point.

For some reason, these pumps are very expensive. I did look at salvage parts, but with prices in the $600 range for those, I decided it's safer to go with a new part where at least I can expect some mileage out of it.

[cmartin]

I picked 2008 see pumps listed as right and left, is it high and low pressure? Just curious.

[987kmns]

I picked 2008 see pumps listed as right and left, is it high and low pressure? Just curious.

No, those are the in-tank pumps. They are part of the low pressure system and they are significantly cheaper than the HPFP. The HPFP is on the driver's side cylinder head, right up against the firewall.

[PorscheTX928]

Yes, the low pressure fuel pumps are mounted inside the gas tank on the left and right side right under passenger seats. You have to open up both to do anything with either pump since they have inter-connecting fuel lines. The FPR is mounted on the opening above Right fuel pump, and the fuel filter on top of the left pump. I will tell you that the fuel filter and FPR should probably be replaced if you mess with pumps. I have seen many instances where pumps were replaced only to have similar issues which turned out to be the filter or FPR. My Filter was filthy, at 85K miles. I have replaced everything - Fuel Filter, FPR, and L and R pumps. MY 2008 CS is running better, but now I am getting something similar to the OP...So, I thought I would ask about the HPFP. I posted this in another forum, but the forum seems to be dead, no one responding.

Repost:
I have had a fuel delivery problem with my 2008 CS now for a few months. I have replaced the FPR, filter, and two fuel pumps...but am still having issues with a long crank time and pretty crappy running over 2K RPMs. Sometimes, usually when car is cold, the car will run perfectly, but once it heats up, it begins to act up.
I have a car scanner that can read some of the Porsche values so I decided to check on the high pressure at start up, and after running for awhile.

Ok...so after car warms up, the fuel pressure set point goes to 0.00...actual stays constant at around 5K mbar....at this point, you can give it gas and the actual value might go up to 6500 mb, but thats it....set point does not change.

I turned off the car and back on...I get a fuel set point of 40,000 mbar...actual around 32,000 mbar....car seems to run pretty good right after a restart...I gave it some gas, and the fuel set point went to 51000 mbar and the actual kept pace at 49800 mbar. BUT, after a few minutes the setpoint drops to 0.00 and stays there, and the actual again stays at 6500 despite giving it some gas. trying to bump it up.....

So what does all this mean? Seems like my HPFP is dying out after the car warms up...although even at start up it does seem to be running that well as it takes awhile for the car to start. Could it be a bad relay? Which relay is for the HPFP? Perhaps I can swap it out with another similar relay to test. Is there something else that would trigger the HPFP to turn off? Thanks in advance for any help.

__________


Also, if anyone has any questions regarding the low pressure pumps...I would be glad to help. Main things when working on them is (Do them on empty fuel tank!!!! Otherwise, you will be dunking your hands...have 1/4 tank or less and its not too bad, Depressurize fuel lines before disconnecting battery, work slowly and keep track of lines[sucks to forget a connection].)

[987kmns]

I had the same issue with the high pressure set point disappearing after a while, even with the Durametric tool. I don't think that it actually is a problem with the car, but rather a connection problem through the OBD2. The reason I say that is that I saw the set point drop out quickly sometimes and much later into a drive cycle other times, but the problems still existed even with the set point there. Replacing the pump fixed the car's performance issues, but did not fix the set point dropping out issue.

With a healthy HPFP, the actual value should track the set point almost perfectly. I had the same symptoms - the car ran better with a cold HPFP and worse once the engine/HPFP warmed up.

[PorscheTX928]

Im pretty sure the HPFP is my issue. I do have a question about your DIY project. Is it possible for the problem with my pump to just be the cam stopper? You said that you didnt notice it when you removed your old pump because it has fallen apart. Is it possible that the stopper was the original cause of the pump not working? I am guessing the cam turning helps build pressure in the pump? I was going to take off my pump today to check, but it rained all day. It would be great if all I needed to replace was a 70.00 stopper.
I have an 08 Cayenne S, and the cheapest I have found the pump has been 936.00...I just put 1200 putting in the low pressure pumps, FPR and filter, I hate to spend another 1K on this car....especially since my funds have also been going to a project 928 im working on.

If its doable, i may take the pump out and leave it out until i get the new pump. And, if its the cam stopper, I can replace that and see if that is the issue.

[987kmns]

Unfortunately, no.

The cam stopper is only useful when assembling the components. It holds the HPFP clutch in place on the end of the camshaft. When I first assembled everything I didn't notice that the clutch had fallen out completely since the stopper wasn't there to hold it in place. I ran the car with the new HPFP and had the same symptoms as before. After removing everything again, I noticed that the clutch was missing and fished it out of the undertrays. Then I got a new stopper to hold the clutch in place while I installed the new pump again. With the new HPFP now engaged on the camshaft all issues were fixed.

As a side note, the HPFP "clutch" is just an aluminum piece that serves as an adaptor between the end of the camshaft and the nose of the HPFP. You are correct in that the HPFP is driven by the camshaft.

[PorscheTX928]

I am excited. I was able to locate a used HPFP for 199 Euros. Around 210 USD. I figure if it only lasts a year, it will be worth it. I just through almost 1500 into the rest of the fuel system so if I get a year off the used pump or at least 6 months, it will give me a little time to recoup from this hit to my wallet. At 200.00, it was a chance im willing to take.

I ordered stopper just in case from a supplier for 41.00 along with a gasket that is not mentioned in this post. Not sure if it is needed, but it was only 2.96 so I figured to replace just in case.

I will update once I get part and install....this has been a long road for me...and I would be happy to get fuel and performance issues out of the way once and for all. I have had start and performance issues for close to 6 months now, so if this is the last step, I would be a very happy p!g owner. Current symptoms are erratic idle, long starts, and complete power loss if you accelerate rapidly. I can get up to 60-70 with no problem as long as it is a slow, steady acceleration. Because of this, I havent driven it much on my hour and a half commute because I dont trust it. Oh, I also get the P1026 code, and have the lack of pressure as mentioned in my previous posts.

[lubridges]

This was a very good read. Curious if your check engine light activated at any time during the degradation of performance with the pump?

My mech has indicated that my pump may need replacement and the cost are ~$1200.00 (very pricey)

Regards,

Lucien

[PorscheTX928]

lubridges - Yes, ck engine light will trigger codes, especially 1024, it seems. But you will get codes for just about everything because it is making everything else run crappy. So I got misfire codes as well. Well, 1200 sounds just a little high...most say other than being hard to get to, this is a pretty simple job. As mentioned, one person had pump out in 30 min. I have seen the pumps as low as around 800.00. So if you choose to put it in yourself, you can save a little money. Make sure you get the newest part # if u are buying new. There have been several upgrades and versions of the HPFP, so make sure you are not buying an old version. For my 2008 Cayenne S (no turbo) it is 948-110-315-07

[987kmns]

I also got codes while the pump was failing. Also experienced misfires and all kinds of other codes per above.

[PorscheTX928]

Ok....I received the stopper yesterday, so I was able to do the HPFP switch out today....it took me about 4 hours total...but to get the pump out it was pretty quick....30-40 min...I had some issues with the piece between the pump and the cam- it fell off when i pulled the pump out and I had to crawl under the car and search for it....it was stuck in a spot that was very hard to get to. Also, once the new pump was on, I had a bad fuel leak that took about an hour to fix...it was the small hose on top that is not very flexible. I bent it a little so it fit better and it solved the problem. I took the engine hoist eye completely off because it was in the way. I also removed a few other things to make room...I have huge (Fat) hands....with little hands, it would have been a snap.

Also, no one has mentioned, but there is a gasket on the pump that needs to be replaced. I order it and it cost around 3.00...the gasket on the old pump was bad. The stopper was worn down also so I am glad i purchased it. My cayenne now runs better than it did when i purchased it. I am taking my gf out tonight!!!! Woo hoo...unfortunately, I still have to go back in and put the plate back on, and the engine hoist mount, and the vanity engine covers....but Ill leave that until my hands heal a bit....you will get them scratched up squeezing them through very narrow openings.

[987kmns]

Glad to hear the new HPFP cured the problem!

[thedude2u]

Hello all. I`ve been monitoring this thread for some time as I have recently had the HPFP replaced on my 2008 CTT. I had the same symptoms. Rough idle, hesitation/jerky acceleration, and eventually stalling (scary when driving!). There was no noticeable smoke with any of these conditions, but I`m sure it could be possible given the rough running conditions.

Normally this is a job that I would take on myself. The OP did a good job writing up the swap and it looks easily within reach of the average shadetree mechanic. However, my wife and I were moving across country and my tools were in storage over 2000 miles away. So I swallowed my pride and took the car to the dealer to have the pump replace at ~$2k.

The pump replacement seems to have fixed all of the issues. I haven`t experienced any crank/idle/stalling issues since. However, I have a new problem now that I think may be related to the pump install. The engine/transmission now seems to be surging a low/part throttle and the upshifts have become very harsh. When I am cruising around town (low engine load) and going on/off throttle, the engine seem to apply to much power and then too little causing the acceleration to oscillate. It honestly makes you kind of queasy after awhile.

Is there a calibration procedure or software update that is supposed to be done as part of the HPFP replacement? I don`t have any active codes currently (at least visible by OBD). I don`t have Durametric currently (thinking about buying a kit) so I can`t monitor the current rail pressure to see if it is out of spec. It just seems coincidental that these symptoms started happening right after the pump replacement. It`s driving my wife and I crazy!

Any ideas? Anyone else with similar symptoms?


P.S. I know I`m not living in VA currently, but I thought I would post since this is one of the better HPFP threads I found online. I`m originally from Roanoke and graduated from VT. That counts, right?!?! :)

[boxs]

MY CAYENNE STOP ON THE HIGHWAY :(
I plug it to diagnostic tools and i have this message (camshaft pos. sensor bank 2 range )
I had change the camshaft sensor on both side and the engine still not running
Rough Sound smells Gas .
Do the engine skip a tooth ?
Helpp !!!

[Dr K]

We've gone international. Unfortunately, Boxs, I can't help you. Good luck, though.

[Parenn911]

Great thread, excellent write up!

[missing951]

Hi I am experiencing somewhat of a different problem. I have 2008 Cayenne V6 which also has a HPFP for its direct injection system. I keep getting a CEL (check engine light) that comes and goes. No drivability issues, no power loss although it runs a bit ragged at startup.

The code that comes up consistently with my Durametric is P0674:

P0674:
Fuel rail pressure sensor - inappropriately high - Upper limit value exceeded, test conditions are not-completed, fault is currently active and is not causing a DTC light.

Sometimes also accompanied by

P1057:
Warm up catalyst efficiency below threshold bank 1 - Value below lower limit value, test conditions are not-completed, fault is not currently active and is not causing a DTC light

I have replaced the Fuel rail pressure sensor, but unfortunately I don't have an appropriate fuel pressure gauge to measure the actual values. The V6 ECU does not report the fuel pressure like it does on the V8s for some reason so I can use the Durametric to get the actual values.

Could a failing HPFP cause a too high pressure condition? I was thinking the nonsensical too high reading had to be an electrical fault of some sort thus the replacement of the sensor. I have not dug into the wiring harness or anything like that yet because it will be a nightmare to get to. A previous post mentioned that it is the check valve in the pump that tends to go(preventing it from building pressure) rather than the mechanical pump itself. Is there a built in relief valve as well?

I've been stumped by this for some time but since there was no change in drivability (just the CEL) I have let it linger. Any thoughts?

[nasocbr]

Hi all,

I have the same problems with my HPFP and I am planning to replace it soon.
How can I get the photos from the DIY instructions on the first page?
I am a bit concerned about this "clutch" and mounting.
Is there a calibration procedure or software update that is supposed to be done as part of the HPFP replacement? i don't have Durametric or any other software.

Thank you

[tmiller02]

ditto.... any idea where the pictures are?

[Jazzbass]

Photobucket used to be a free image host but about a year ago they turned off free hosting and broke millions of bbs posts like this around the world. Hopefully the original poster will edit his post with images uploaded here directly.

[987kmns]

Pump drive:

57115

Pump drive with clutch and stopper for illustration purposes only. The clutch and stopper are attached to the camshaft first as shown below.

57116

The following photo shows what the camshaft looks like with the clutch removed (I'm using a mirror to see).

57117

Now, with the clutch and stopper installed.

57118

Finally, it is time to reinstall the pump. The low pressure fuel hose gets connected first. Then, the electrical connector as the pump is lowered into place. I found that it helps to roughly orient the pump drive the same way as the notches in the pump clutch. Jiggle the pump into position. Install all the bolts and shield and you are done. Here is the finished product.

57119

Old pump PN:

57120

New pump PN:

57121

I hope this helps. I wouldn't say that any of this work is very complicated, but it does require patience as the space between the pump and firewall is very small and you have to work by feel most of the time. The job took about an hour and half to complete the first time and 55 minutes the second time.

[johnt000]

This is a great write up! Doing the pump now and this is alot of help, especially the last few pics! Thanks!

[993bug]

First up I've got to say this has been an excellent write up and gave me the confidence to tackle my first adventure into the world of Porsche repairs.

I'll tell my story so far.....
The missus was driving and noticed smoke coming from the car after the CEL came on. On inspection of the vehicle running I could see a wisp of smoke at the right rear of the engine block. The engine cranked and was slow to start and was running rough.

The diagnosis
Searching the Internet with the symptoms took to me to pages like this of HPFP failures and the service campaign WA29. I contacted the local stealer who was able to confirm that my HPFP was replaced under that replacement program. I ordered a OBD code reader and obtained a fault code of P1026 that again identified the HPFP.

The uncertainty
Of all posts I had read, there was no mention of smoke prior to any pump failure. Of all these posts that talk about HPFP failures, just how do they fail? i just couldn't find anything that describes what the mechanism of failure is!

The removal
What part number do I have? Time to remove my pump. Again thanks to this write up I tackle the task and have it out in 30 minutes. After removal of the clutch I have a small black cap and 20 plus small plastic fragments on the inside of it. While reassembling this small black cap inside the clutch it pretty much disintegrated and fell to the floor. The HPFP part number I have is the same as the old pump number in this write up which shows a 2010 production date in line with the service campaign. The small plastic pieces I have once apon a time used to be the stopper.

My current theory
I'm not convinced the pump has actually failed. The pump turns and feels intact. There are no obvious signs of failure. The OP determined the new pump did not work without the stopper installed. Could it be that I just need a new stopper? And how many pumps have been replaced that may not have been shagged?

Ok whadasyallreckon?

I have the same issue with the disintegrated black cap - 2009 CTTS. Well for the turbo it's flat like a penny. I wondering if my pump really failed, or was she running crappy because of a faulty cap.

[Kk1340]

Curious on where you sourced the pump as I might be helping my brother in law do this job. Thanks

[Patrick3000]

Curious on where you sourced the pump as I might be helping my brother in law do this job. Thanks

These guys have been a good source for parts, just purchased a 996.1 Aerokit front bumper cover and it arrived in a few weeks from Germany. I purchased on Black Friday, during the sale. Suspect that you may see some after Christmas sales, tomorrow 😊

https://www.getporschesilverspringparts.com/?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=1398316288&gbraid=0AAAAAC_1M7nWxOT7kNx9C21YSkZjhDL_H&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4PLC6-zZkQMVh2VHAR0dGzCAEAAYASAAEgLpsfD_BwE

[tomekz]

BTW, these pumps can be fixed. I wasn't going to pay $2200+ for a new pump, took a few apart and learned how to fix them. In most case only o rings are needed. Less than $50 in parts to fix these. Does require some special tools I made and a vacuum chamber.