Any reason not to get a Bendpak MD-6XP?

[ruffyz]

I'm probably going to invest in a lift and settled on the MD-6XP, mostly because of size constraints. I need something that will allow a normal car to park in the lift spot without the lift getting in the way. Does any one have any personal experience with this specific lift?

[Potomac-Greg]

Looks like a nice unit. Ground clearance may be an issue (solved by laying boards on either side of the lift). And once up, there is very little access to the mid-belly of the car. I've had a similar lift and can say that there are not many jobs that require access to the mid-belly (exhaust work, harness installation...).

[tamathumper]

I don't have that exact model, but mine is quite similar based on the pictures I see on the BendPak site.

I made ramps/runners out of double-stacked 2x16s on each side of it to solve the clearance issue, but I'll make something better when I get the time. The 968 at US stock height would never clear it, and it still wouldn't even with the runners if I left the lift pads on.

I've done a full clutch and flywheel job, including removing the central exhaust, so the access to one end and the center is just fine IMHO. If you have a rear-engined variant obviously you'd move the lift so you're driving on in the other direction.

The portable control unit is a royal PITA. Put it somewhere that it won't get knocked over, and secure it to the wall. Also put it somewhere that gives you an escape route in the event something goes wrong. Mine fell over one day and broke the cap on the reservoir, spilling hydraulic fluid all over the floor. At the same time, it jammed the lift button into the floor and start lifting the car into the air. All while I was in it! :bang:

I had to jump out, into the puddle of hydraulic fluid, re-right the control unit, and lower the lift back down, then clean up that huge puddle of fluid. :grrr: It would have made a lovely post in the "Failure IS an Option" thread.

I have the 6000 lb. scissor lift from Harbor Freight, and I use four of the Harbor Freight tall jackstands under the car when it's up in the air. I bought the lift at my last house, and four men were able to get it onto a liftgate and move it to my new house. The lift cost $900 (combo of sale and coupons), and the high jackstands were something like $60 each.

[Dr K]

I have a similar mid-rise lift, with a very similar model name (don't remember exactly) from Greg Smith. I was considering the BendPak when I bought it to get American-made, but found out they're all made in China. Greg Smith will load it in your pickup, and it's easy to get it off with an engine hoist at the home end. I borrowed both the pickup (and driver - Thanks, OldTee) and the engine hoist.

Does the 25% coupon work for the Harbor Freight one? If so, it would be about $1013 (plus delivery). The Greg Smith is just under $1300. What's the price on the BendPak. MANY on this board have or have had the Greg Smith, and I'm not aware of anyone with a problem with theirs.

As said above, there isn't much you can't get to on the mid-rise, and even less on a REAC Porsche. All of our non-sports cars (including the Prius) easily fit over the lift, but the 911 (admittedly low) barely fits driving up on a double-thickness of 2x12s. I removed the little spring-loaded clips that keep the lift-pads from sliding off the ends of the arms, and take off the lift pads to get the car on and off--very easy. Like tamathumper, the 911 wouldn't fit over with the lift pads on. Unlike Allen, I trust the lock on the lift and don't put the car on jack stands, although I do (sometimes) lower it on to the nearest lock height.

I used to keep the control unit leaning against a door until I saw how Jazz had mounted his just inside his garage door. By copying that, I put the not-small unit in a totally unused space which both allowed me to walk completely around the car, and also to get to it much more easily.

[Nerfbar]

Greg Smith for me too. One of the best things I ever bought. This is the best time of year since prices are usually lowest. Check the internet price for discounts. If you drive up there and reference the internet price they'll give it to you.

[vascott99]

I have the same model and love it...My only problem the arms are not long enough for SUV's. they come with the extensions to lift it by the floor and I have had to use shims to make it work...

Otherwise a great solid product. I had to create a ramp using four 2x11x16 pieces of board and I used a circular saw to cut the edges at an angle...I drive the car on it and no problems...It takes a few times to get your car on it correctly...but once you do it a few times no issues...

[Dr K]

...It takes a few times to get your car on it correctly...

Really?? Maybe if I'm really tired. I find the loading very forgiving.

[TurboPooch]

Like mentioned above, I have a different model but it is one of the best, most used garage tools I have bought. I feel safe when working under the car. The only time I wish I would have had a post lift was when I installed an RS shifter on the 911. Was a little bit of a pain crawling between the scissor section. Read this thread about delivery http://dorkiphus.net/porsche/showthread.php?t=29362 as they are heavy. Post 31 I talk about the ramps I made. One of these days I'm going to cut the floor and re-pour the concrete to have the top of the lift even with the floor so I can get rid of the ramps.

[vascott99]

Really?? Maybe if I'm really tired. I find the loading very forgiving.


In the beginning...;-)

[ruffyz]

Thanks for the feedback guys. I we going to go with the bendpak because I thought I could get way without some wooden ramps. the website claimed the min height of lift point is 4.75 inches but the internet (random corvette forum) claims that some parts of the lift are up to 6 inches high. I'll do more research and let you know what I find.

[APKhaos]

My Rotary parallelogram is another variant on the low rise lift. As for loading, you'll need ramps for any kind of sports car. I've never had a problem with regular street cars. My race car occasionally snags the lift when unloading if I'm not careful to have the arms positioned just right. I need more ramp height.

Some thinks to consider:
- Wood ramps are best positively fixed to the garage floor. Nothing worse than trying to load your car solo and having the front tires push the ramp rather than climbing it. For some reason Hoosiers seem to be good at the push rather than climb thing.
- Track width varies a lot, so it you want to use the lift for various family & friends cars even occasionally, you'll need to move the ramps to suit.

[Dr K]

Jazz also has the parallelogram lift - very stable but not as tall. Jazz built really light ramps.

My ramps are VERY heavy, so never move, even with Hoosiers. But it is nice to occasionally be able to remove the ramps once the car is up for easier access, esp. if on a rolling seat. That said. I'm a little too tall for a rolling seat, and in the past year have taken to sitting on a mat, which makes the car just the right height.

Don't worry about the height of the lift - just build ramps. And I assume the Bend-Pak is the same as mine in that removing the pads from the arms lowers the highest point by about an inch.

You still haven't listed a price on the Bend-Pak. Unless things have changed, it's Chinese and you might want to seriously consider the Greg Smith or even HF, as many of us have those and have no problems between us (except VaSteve, whom I think got a faulty pump which was quickly replaced - correct?).

[ruffyz]

Bendpak is around 1900 shipped, which I was ok with assuming it was low enough to not need ramps, but I'm not so sure it's worth the significant extra cost.

[Dr K]

I'm 15 minutes from Tyson's corner. Come by and see the Greg Smith one. PM sent.

Peter

[BlackTalon]

Ramps are a signifcant extra cost???? Most people make them out of 2xs.

[Potomac-Greg]

Bendpak is around 1900 shipped, which I was ok with assuming it was low enough to not need ramps, but I'm not so sure it's worth the significant extra cost.

Ramps are cheap; and a lift that doesn't need ramps is either going to be a whole different animal, or something recessed in the floor. And that's obviously much more pricey.

[N0tt0N]

Here's what I use. No ramps needed for my Cayman. Easy access to everything without the footprint of a post design. Portable. Love it. YMMV

http://www.ezcarlift.com/

[HoodPin]

Here's what I use. No ramps needed for my Cayman. Easy access to everything without the footprint of a post design. Portable. Love it. YMMV

http://www.ezcarlift.com/

I do like that! That would be very handy at the track. I may have to work it into the budget. ;)

[N0tt0N]

HoodPin: I also purchased several of the accessories including:

1. The drive-over adapters - basically casters on springs that allow you to leave the lift setup, offset the lift so you can drive over the two cross pieces, and then re-allign it under the lift points. Very useful for a one car garage like mine.

2. The work table adapters - basically a set of shortened cross pieces that allow you to lay a piece of stainless wrapped plywood over the lift and use it as another work surface for engine/tranny building since it can be raised and lowered.

3. The rough surface adapters - could have made these as they are just steel plates that allow you to use the lift on soft tarmac or gravel (i.e., in the pits). This is needed as the lifts eventually winds up on four steel rollers about 6-8" long that would sink into any soft surfaces. The steel plate basically spreads the load.

A note. The two cross pieces are different. One of them has a screw rod that synchronizes the simultaneous lifting of both sides of the lift. The other is just a cross piece for stability during the lift. I found that if you orient the lift with the screw cross piece at the front of the car (at the front lift points directly behind the front wheels) then this gives you the option of removing the back cross piece, if needed, to access anything in the middle of the car in front of the rear wheels. This works out better than most scissor lift designs, I think.

[ruffyz]

Ramps are a signifcant extra cost???? Most people make them out of 2xs.

I meant I was willing spend the extra $500 for the convenience of not needing ramps. As it turns our the BendPak lift is no lower than the Greg Smith lift, so there really is no reason to spend the extra money. Wood ramps are indeed cheap and necessary.

After seeing the Greg Smith lift in person I do think GS is the way to go. I'll probably order it and try to get it picked up after our Lemons Race in Feb.

[ausgeflippt951]

Here's what I use. No ramps needed for my Cayman. Easy access to everything without the footprint of a post design. Portable. Love it. YMMV

http://www.ezcarlift.com/


That's pretty neat -- very tempting. Price seems a bit high for what you get but I would consider that over a scissor lift due to its portability.

Is it basically just a big spare-tire jack (worm-n-screw)? Neat.


Edit: any chance you'll be bringing it to any DE's this year? It'd be cool to see it in person.

[Jazzbass]

Jazz also has the parallelogram lift - very stable but not as tall. Jazz built really light ramps.


Here are my ramps. Been in use for almost 7 years with no issues. My 911 stays parked on them most of the time. Lift is a parallelogram style by Rotary:

http://dorkiphus.net/porsche/showthread.php?p=154818#post154818

[Dr K]

Here are my ramps. Been in use for almost 7 years with no issues. My 911 stays parked on them most of the time. Lift is a parallelogram style by Rotary:

http://dorkiphus.net/porsche/showthread.php?p=154818#post154818

Do you still have problems with the clips coming apart? I remember at one point you said they are so light, if you had to do it over you'd make them just one long piece. Still feel that way?

[Jazzbass]

Do you still have problems with the clips coming apart? I remember at one point you said they are so light, if you had to do it over you'd make them just one long piece. Still feel that way?
The clips turned out to be 100% worthless. In the end I've ended up just lining them up next to each other and driving up them - they don't separate when driving on/off and it's never really been a problem. Not bolted down or to each other in any way. And real each to simply move one section out of the way when working.