318ti front suspension refresh

[roundel]

The 318ti is getting pretty wobbly up front and a peek up under shows that the bushings and ball joints are toast. I have assembled the following parts list. Anything look like its missing to this list. I want to replace the control arms (soup to nuts) and tie rod ends.


Collision Catalog - 1997 - BMW - 318TI
front suspension, suspension components, control arm Left 1 $168.66 $33.73 $134.93 $0.00 $134.93
Collision Catalog - 1997 - BMW - 318TI
front suspension, suspension components, control arm bracket Left 1 $45.44 $9.09 $36.35 $0.00 $36.35
Collision Catalog - 1997 - BMW - 318TI
front suspension, suspension components, control arm bracket Right 1 $45.44 $9.09 $36.35 $0.00 $36.35
Collision Catalog - 1997 - BMW - 318TI
front suspension, suspension components, control arm Right 1 $168.66 $33.73 $134.93 $0.00 $134.93
Collision Catalog - 1997 - BMW - 318TI
front suspension, suspension components, control arm bushing Left 1 $36.13 $7.23 $28.90 $0.00 $28.90
Collision Catalog - 1997 - BMW - 318TI
front suspension, suspension components, control arm bushing Right 1 $36.13 $7.23 $28.90 $0.00 $28.90
Collision Catalog - 1997 - BMW - 318TI
steering, steering gear, outer tie rod Left 1 $100.32 $20.06 $80.26 $0.00 $80.26
Collision Catalog - 1997 - BMW - 318TI
steering, steering gear, outer tie rod Right 1 $100.32 $20.06 $80.26 $0.00 $80.26
You Save $140.22 Sub Total: $560.88
Shipping Charge: 29.95
Total: $590.83

[cmartin]

I was very happy with the arms that come with ball joints for ~$60, cheaper version is ~$45. Also, the bracket/bushing together are ~$20 ea. After maybe 70k miles everything was still tight.

[roundel]

I was very happy with the arms that come with ball joints for ~$60, cheaper version is ~$45. Also, the bracket/bushing together are ~$20 ea. After maybe 70k miles everything was still tight.

Source?

[cmartin]

Just checked http://www.rockauto.com/, similar prices to above.

I've used bimmerparts, pelican and tischer depending but in this case you get a few more choices and can save substantial $$ with rockauto.

[roundel]

Just checked http://www.rockauto.com/, similar prices to above.

I've used bimmerparts, pelican and tischer depending but in this case you get a few more choices and can save substantial $$ with rockauto.

Holy Crap! Rockauto could get the some pile o parts (although not OEM) for $239 delivered! That is over half off! Thanks for the heads up Chris!!!

[smdubovsky]

If you're doing it all, might be a good time to go to the M3 arms/bushings? (more caster IIRC) Pricier but still prob less than your orig quote. Don't know how different a 318 is to the other cars.

[cmartin]

That is over half off!

Good news. I use them all the time and so far so good. Keep an eye on the shipping, my only gripe. Common discount coupons too.

I just returned a few parts and the process was seamless. You are on the hook for shipping so it's not painless but I got my $$ back quickly.

[roundel]

If you're doing it all, might be a good time to go to the M3 arms/bushings? (more caster IIRC) Pricier but still prob less than your orig quote. Don't know how different a 318 is to the other cars.

That may be true, but this is the wife's daily driver. She did not notice or at least complain about how it handles now. New stuff will feel glorious to her. I already have an M3. I don't need to try to build another. ;)

[roundel]

I noticed when I was replacing the control arms that the sway bar end links also looked like the joints were shot so I have them inbound. The control arms and tie-rods were a snap. Just need to fiddle with the alignment. I tried to make the tie-rods the same length as the ones I took off, but measuring the tires front and back I am toe-out by an inch :bang:

Rock-Auto is cheap! Thanks for the link.

[cmartin]

Glad its working out for you. Usually you can group items to safe on shipping, but if not it's usually not a bad deal anyway.

tie-rods the same length as the ones I took off, but measuring the tires front and back I am toe-out by an inch

btdt about 10 times, good luck.

[roundel]

btdt about 10 times, good luck.

Is there any issue with aligning with the car dangling on a lift? Does that make the toe change from what it is with the car supporting itself?

[Roo]

Yep, toe changes with suspension compression.
The car should be on the ground and normally loaded (i.e. half tank of gas, golf clubs in the trunk, etc).
All alignment rigs I've seen are four-post drive-on systems.
A good shop will roll the car fore/aft often to help settle the suspension during adjustments.

[roundel]

Yep, toe changes with suspension compression.


I wish I was smart enough to measure the toe before I started yanking parts off. Oh well, it is easy enough to lower to measure and raise to adjust.

[junkyard_sal]

You know where take the car for a proper alignment. Our guy Ceasar. I just bought a ball joint separator from HF but it sounds like you tackled most of this already.

While the car is on the lift you might want to use a pry bar on to see if there is movement in the rear subframe bushing and similarly on the differential bushing. I have access to a 12 ton press and could haul the diff out to the press when I am working on my m3.

The m3 offset CABs are a nice touch but they can only be used with certain years of Control arms on the e36s. 95 e36 m3 arms work with offset CABs later years had the increased castor built into the arm so a centered bushing was used. In general the m3 bushings are harder than regular non-M car bushings.

[roundel]

On the initial test drive to see how the handling felt after measuring with a tape and adjusting, it felt fine at 1st, but then the drivers front caliper started to stick. So rebuilt that and drove the car to work yesterday. It felt OK, but the steering wheel was a bit tilted to the left going down the road and it felt a bit darty at higher speeds. I figured it was a tad toe out based on the darty feeling so I planned to shorten the passenger side tie rod (the tie rods are infront of the steering axis of rotation on this car). Before I put it on the lift, I measured to verify it was toe out. It wasn't. It was quite toe in. So I lengthened the drivers side 1/4 turn. My adjustment did succeed in straightening the wheel, but I am not convinced I am not still a bit too toe in still. The steering wheel wobbles subtlety above 70 MPH. It does not feel like a wheel balance issue and I do not recall a wobble before I tore it apart. I am thinking of adding a 1/8th of a turn to each side to see if that improves the high speed feel.

[Roo]

A good 4 wheel laser alignment is under $100.00 down here (southeast Va).

[roundel]

True. But where is the sport in that? I have had fun feeling the result of changes and taking measurements. Maybe after I have it where it seems good, I'll get it measured with lasers and see what settings I like. :cool:

[Bulldog9]

Afternoon, this is my first post in the BMW forum, been a member in the Porsche forum for a year or so. I'm in Alexandria, want to get a fresh alignment on my E36 M3, feels a bit numb on center, caster feels off. I see Ceasar mentioned above? Did a search, but a google genius I am not........