2005 525i brake pad replacement

[pookie]

My co-worker asked me to assist with the pad replacement on his 5 series. I'd like to help but I've never done one before. I assume its just like changing the pads on any other vehicle. But is there anything different that I should know about? For example, I thought the same thing on my wife's Mazda3, only to find out for the front pads you need a special tool that rotates the front piston as you push it back into the caliper. Just curious if I'll run into any of that on the BMW.

And any other tips I should know?

Also where should he order pads from? He currently has factory pads and is looking for some that have lower dust as, and I can't make this up, "they are gettting his wheels dirty."

[pookie]

After reading the thread on the 08 1 series pad change it seems I answered my first question and it doesn't sound like I need any special piston/caliper tool. So one down.

Other tips and parts questions still apply though?

[Jase007]

Some say "NOT" to lube caliper guide pins if single puck floating caliper. That's the instruction on my E39 ('97 - '03). However, if I don't they stick and creak. I lube the caliper guide pins with synthetic caliper grease even though exposed to elements, can attract dirt/dust and affect the rubber bushings guide pins pass through.

See what it looks like when you get "in there" and make a judgement call.

[cmartin]

Ask them if they want dust or noise. If they are picky most/many ceramic or semi-metallic pads make noise at some point in their life. Usually the dusty OE material pads are quiet. Their choice.

[John Clay]

I would say "I'll only help if you agree that the way to deal with a dirty wheel is to wash it."

[Jase007]

Also where should he order pads from? He currently has factory pads and is looking for some that have lower dust as, and I can't make this up, "they are gettting his wheels dirty."

I switched to Mintex = red dust instead of the paggid/jurid BMW black.

I then switch to Akebono Euro Ceramic (Ultra or something like that) 1 MILLION times better on the dust front ... stopping power is about the same, little less bite.

[ausgeflippt951]

I switched to Mintex = red dust instead of the paggid/jurid BMW black.

I then switch to Akebono Euro Ceramic (Ultra or something like that) 1 MILLION times better on the dust front ... stopping power is about the same, little less bite.


Good to know, thanks. Time to replace the brakes on our '05 E46.

[pookie]

Thanks for the help.

He found a package deal for pad, rotors, and sensors. (Recommended by someone on bimmerfest) I assume the sensor is one that relates to the warning light in the computer system that the pads need replaced. Any info on that?

And total street driven car, owned and driven by a middle age guy, no craziness. Based on these facts does he need slotted or cross drilled rotors? Or just the plain vented ones to match factory? I looked and he just has plain vented rotors on now. I told him to go with the same unless you guys tell me he should switch to something different.

[tdatk]

Thanks for the help.

He found a package deal for pad, rotors, and sensors. (Recommended by someone on bimmerfest) I assume the sensor is one that relates to the warning light in the computer system that the pads need replaced. Any info on that?

And total street driven car, owned and driven by a middle age guy, no craziness. Based on these facts does he need slotted or cross drilled rotors? Or just the plain vented ones to match factory? I looked and he just has plain vented rotors on now. I told him to go with the same unless you guys tell me he should switch to something different.
Stock vented rotors. Drilled rotors are just wrong. Slotted OK for track use.

[Jase007]

The sensor is a brake pad wear sensor ... just like p-cars. Typically on one rear and one front. I've re-used mine for several pad changes. Just make sure when you pull from old pads .... you get the copper omega "U" shaped part that wraps around the plastic sensor end. This piece likes to stay in the old pads.

Would be a good time for a fluid flush ... easy to do ... old fashioned pump the pedal way works best. IF you do this ... don't let reservoir go dry or allow air to get into system. Evacuating air from BOSCH ABS on BMWs is a dealer/Indy-trip to computer cycle the ABS pump / for purging. I've used the Motive for most of the fluid flushes and then finish off with old fashioned way .... person pumping the brake pedal .... hold pedal down, close off bleeder.

[Potomac-Greg]

The sensor is a brake pad wear sensor ... just like p-cars. Typically on one rear and one front. I've re-used mine for several pad changes. Just make sure when you pull from old pads .... you get the copper omega "U" shaped part that wraps around the plastic sensor end. This piece likes to stay in the old pads.

Would be a good time for a fluid flush ... easy to do ... old fashioned pump the pedal way works best. IF you do this ... don't let reservoir go dry or allow air to get into system. Evacuating air from BOSCH ABS on BMWs is a dealer/Indy-trip to computer cycle the ABS pump / for purging. I've used the Motive for most of the fluid flushes and then finish off with old fashioned way .... person pumping the brake pedal .... hold pedal down, close off bleeder.

On the ABS pump/purge is that a "must do" or a "should do" for a brake fluid flush?

[Jase007]

I would categorize it as a "it would nice in a perfect world" do. :)

Just like changing tranny fluid by dropping the pan doesn't get the fluid in the torque converter, if you don't cycle the ABS pump, you aren't getting all the fluid. My assumption is that there is a very small amount of fluid in the ABS pump that won't get flushed. Not a big deal.

Redneck way of changing ABS pump fluid (not responsible for repercussions) is flush fluid, bleed, go for a drive and lock 'em up multiple times (think dirt roads or snow storm) getting the ABS to kick in ... lots. :lol: Come back from drive, re-flush / bleed as necessary.

FWIW, I've only done the "redneck" thing in the GMC Suburban, and it was on snow. Been flushing and bleeding BMW brakes since ~1988 using ATE ... never had a problem.

[pookie]

Thanks for the tips guys, I knocked it out last night. I got a nice case of Sweetwater brews for my troubles.

Only two little snags did I run into. 1) the jack points/ride height. The only ones I could find were on the side, which worked but I'm so used to having a center jackpoint that it made me chuckle. And the car was so low I had to get out my old tiny jack to get underneath it. Which had I known I wouldn't have had to fumble around the garage looking for the stupid thing. 2) the brake fluid bottle up underneath the cabin air filter on the driver side. Wasn't hard to get to, move a couple things, but I didn't know that going in. So after I looked and couldn't find it I had to look online to figure it out. Which also would have been fine but sorting through the weeds to find where it was on that model took longer than I expected.

Other than that done and done. Now, when my wife's Mazda needs to be replaced maybe I can talk her into the 5 Series wagon...

[Trak Ratt]

... And the car was so low I had to get out my old tiny jack to get underneath it. Which had I known I wouldn't have had to fumble around the garage looking for the stupid thing. Could have just driven it up on a 2x4 or the like for more clearance.

[Jase007]

Could have just driven it up on a 2x4 or the like for more clearance.

That's what I do. 2 on one side and one on the other to get the harbor freight std. aluminum jack under it.

The manual tells you not to but you can jack up the rear by the differential, place the jack stands on the rear side factory "jacking" rubber pads/points. Jack the front up under the center of the engine ... on the THICK aluminum front suspension subframe cross bar. Not the oil pan. There are two there ... pick the one towards the rear of the car. Place front jack stands under the front side rubber "jacking" pads/points.

When jacking the front ... make SURE the jack pad doesn't slip forward/rearwards and come off the aluminum subframe cross member.

[pookie]

I thought about using a 2x4. But it was cold and rainy. He came over pulled in the garage, I turned on the heaters. We ate dinner before I got to work, and wasn't going to wait for the garage to warm back up after him pulling back out and back in. I'm a wuss...

[86911TLCAB]

Are you not supposed to jack up by the rear diff? i have done that a few times on the e30...is that incorrect?

[Jase007]

E30 bushing is "more robust" IMHO & car is lighter.

For whatever reason... they say not to on E39. Perhaps diff bushing(s) are softer? (not solid rubber but like front control arm bushings with center ring/whole suspended by rubber webbing to the outer rubber/metal sleeve).

Hasn't been a problem in either case.

[86911TLCAB]

good...thanks...

[N0tt0N]

Changed the rear pads on Tina's 2006 M5 before the HPDC two weeks ago. Very straightforward, I guess because of the unexpected single-side piston design. Unfortunately, the 'omega' insert for the wear sensor not only refused to come out but the Bakelite portion broke off. I tied up the sensor with zip-ties and Tina had to cancel the wear warning each time she started the car.

When the wear sensor came in I went to install it yesterday. At first I was impressed by the care taken by BMW to protect the harness connector for both the wear sensor and the hub speed sensor connections. The sensor cables both run into a rectangular box where they connect to the harness. However, when I opened the box it was packed with dried mud. I removed it all with a pick and found the two long barrel connectors. Strangely, the sensor connectors that come in the lower rear holes in the box have grommets that fit into the box shell. The higher front holes where the harness connectors come in do not. WTF? That's is right were the mud being flung off the wheels would go. I am considering splitting a set of grommets to seal the front harnesses. Any reason not to?

P.S. This car is huge.

[Potomac-Greg]

I used a brand name ceramic (can't recall brand but got them from TireRack) on my MB 320 GL and while dust levels are WAY down, I really notice a lot less bite. I really need to stand on it for a hard stop and with my little trailer (about 2,000# with no brakes it requires a LOT of planning. :shock:

I may switch pads to dustier/stoppier pads.

I use YouTube to get a first look at how to tackle a job like this. I did a friend's Lotus Elise and I'm glad I saw a video first.