The Ultimate DIY Cool Suit Thread

[Fritz]

There is no way for me to take credit for this as my own idea, but I will try and share info that is helpful for others looking to make their own cool shirt setup.

Every one knows what they are and many of us want them, but the cost is often quite high. The concept is easy, run cold water through a shirt. Done. The execution looks simple enough, but finding the right pieces can be a challenge. Here's a parts list:

Cooler - Engel UC13 or UC19
http://www.engel-usa.com/images/uc19.jpg
This is an airtight cooler with a locking strap and one inch of insulation. Very solid and can be found from many vendors. I found the best deal here.

http://www.austinkayak.com/products/3533/Engel-19-Quart-Dry-Box-Cooler-UC-19.html

Connectors

You need some of these:
http://www.quickcouplings.net/osc/images/PLCD22004.jpg
http://quickcouplings.net/osc/product_info.php?products_id=193&osCsid=851967ba26facda09d0bf45c5000cc67

And some of these:
http://www.quickcouplings.net/osc/images/PLCD17004.jpg
http://quickcouplings.net/osc/product_info.php?products_id=178&osCsid=7cbccfe63de60cb2d77515af208b575e

They also carry them with other fitting ends, but the main thing is the valved CPC fitting which prevents it from leaking all over the place when disconnected. I bought a few others that are non-valved in order to allow the shirt to air dry inside the lines once cleaned.

Then you need hose. I used the 1/4 ID flexible vinyl hose. I've seen mention of 3/8 inch hose, but the flow is still the same through the fitting itself. I'm looking to pick up some hose insulation as well.

The Rule 360 pump seems to be a common selection as is the Attwood Tsunami 800. Both are $20-$30 from a boating store.

A livewell timer will allow the suit to cycle on and off to maximize your comfort level.


Expect updates shortly as I'm building it over the next few days and will try and take pictures of the progress.

[HoodPin]

Cool! But the real question.....are you gonna make the shirt, too? :)

[Elfer]

that is awesome...

[smdubovsky]

If you're buying connectors anyway... Get one pair of the red fia mandated ones that will pull free if tugged on hard enough.

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=5271

[Fritz]

If you're buying connectors anyway... Get one pair of the red fia mandated ones that will pull free if tugged on hard enough.

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=5271

Ew.. $54 or $9.. Hard call. ;) I guess if you are racing FIA, you may want to start off by getting those. But what a crock.. Wouldn't mind paying a little more, but 500% is ridiculous.

[Fritz]

Cool! But the real question.....are you gonna make the shirt, too? :)

I already own the shirt. The shirts are well made and comfortable and worth the money from a time perspective. The ones that are nomex also use the fire proof sewing thread so it is fully compliant. for single layer suits.

[VaSteve]

Fritz you wanna partner up? I'm opening a Chinese sweat shop in my basement to make my kids school uniforms...maybe I could have them make shirts too.

[Fritz]

Fritz you wanna partner up? I'm opening a Chinese sweat shop in my basement to make my kids school uniforms...maybe I could have them make shirts too.

Excellent idea! I'll buy any shirts those tiny little fingers produce for $20 a piece.. $25 if they are nomex.. :D

[HoodPin]

..... $25 if they are nomex.. :D

..of course I hope you're only adding a $.14 label that says "NOMEX". :D

[smdubovsky]

Ew.. $54 or $9.. Hard call.
They can be found for less elsewhere but are still more expensive.

[Vicegrip]

I have seen the $9 ones pop apart when pulled hard enough. Might not have been designed to but they did.

[smdubovsky]

The true dorki way would be to compare the white & red ones to see how to mod the white ones:) I have a pair here somewhere that I haven't installed yet. I'll dig them up & take pics.

[Fritz]

So I completed the assembly of the cooler last night and ran a test this morning. Here is a quick write up on how it went.

I went to home depot to get the parts to go through the walls of the cooler. From left to right they are:

3/8" MPT to 1/4" barb
3/8" FPT Coupler
3/8 threaded pipe - 2 inch galvanized (Which is too long)
3/8" FPT to 1/2" MPT - Reducer
1/2" FPT to 3/4" barb 90 degree elbow
5/8" cut washers

http://dorkiphus.net/porsche/attachment.php?attachmentid=27550

Here is a dry fit of the assembled components:
http://dorkiphus.net/porsche/attachment.php?attachmentid=27551

It was then time to drill some holes into a brand new airtight cooler. As you can see, the holes for the wires are very very snug. The holes for the pipe fittings were equally tight and needed to be opened a bit to get the parts through. I measured to ensure there would be enough space for the washers and tried to keep all the connecting points as high as possible.
http://dorkiphus.net/porsche/attachment.php?attachmentid=27552

I then did a test fit with everything.
http://dorkiphus.net/porsche/attachment.php?attachmentid=27553
http://dorkiphus.net/porsche/attachment.php?attachmentid=27554

Once I was sure everything looked good, I then started the final assembly. I removed and roughed up the insulation on the inside of the pipe holes to allow for the adhesive silicone caulk/sealant to have a place to bond to. The main concern is water running between the washers and getting into the innards of the cooler itself.
I then used the thread tape and a pipe wrench and put the 1/2 to 3/8 reducer on the pipe. I installed the 90 degree elbow onto one of them as it would be impossible once it was sealed in place.

Important thing I learned:
Two inch pipe is too long! I had to use my dremel to remove 1/4" off the length in order for it to be tight enough on the cooler. The better solution is probably to put a few extra washers on the outside...

Now I put a bunch of caulk all over the inside of the wholes and the area where the washer would be touching. I also put a little around the pipe before putting the washer on. It was just a matter of wrenching it all down in place. I did not use any caulk on the outside fittings, but did use the pipe thread everywhere. Here is the completed cooler.

http://dorkiphus.net/porsche/attachment.php?attachmentid=27548

http://dorkiphus.net/porsche/attachment.php?attachmentid=27549


And here it is running!
http://dorkiphus.net/porsche/attachment.php?attachmentid=27555

I'm very happy with the final results. The flow is great and this is with the shirt hanging 4 feet above the cooler. I used the 3/8 inch coupler so I can later remove the barb fitting and install one of the threaded CPC connectors.

Here are roughs for the total costs:

Home Depot fittings and tube $20
Engel Cooler $41
CPC Fittings $10
Silicone adhesive $6
Rule 360 pump $21
Total excluding shirt $88



Hopefully this keeps others from running around trying to finding things on their own. Let me know if you have any questions.

[BlackTalon]

:cool: Thanks!




...can't wait for you to finish the first batch for exclusive sale to Dorkis... :twisted:

[Trak Ratt]

:cool: Thanks!




...can't wait for you to finish the first batch for exclusive sale to Dorkis... :twisted:
and the full blown article in DVor!

I bought a used, smaller Cool Shirt with the intention of upgrading to the larger cooler.

Fritz how about the timer control unit? You doing that next?

[Fritz]

Fritz how about the timer control unit? You doing that next?

I'll post the stuff about the timer when I pick it up later this week. Plus I also have to make a mount of some sort. I'm leaning towards aluminum strips and a couple of well placed bolts and washers in the passenger floor pan.

[tdatk]

Excuse the ignorance as I have not seen one of these, do you fill the cooler with Ice/ little water before going out? If so would it make sense to put in a baffle around the bilge pump and route the return with a flex poly hose to flow over the ice on the opposite side so hot returns to flow over the ice before it can get picked up by the pump ?

[VaSteve]

Excuse the ignorance as I have not seen one of these, do you fill the cooler with Ice/ little water before going out? If so would it make sense to put in a baffle around the bilge pump and route the return with a flex poly hose to flow over the ice on the opposite side so hot returns to flow over the ice before it can get picked up by the pump ?



If the driver is driving it shouldn't be a problem. ;)

[VaSteve]

T
Connectors

You need some of these:
http://www.quickcouplings.net/osc/images/PLCD22004.jpg
http://quickcouplings.net/osc/product_info.php?products_id=193&osCsid=851967ba26facda09d0bf45c5000cc67

And some of these:
http://www.quickcouplings.net/osc/images/PLCD17004.jpg
http://quickcouplings.net/osc/product_info.php?products_id=178&osCsid=7cbccfe63de60cb2d77515af208b575e

They also carry them with other fitting ends, but the main thing is the valved CPC fitting which prevents it from leaking all over the place when disconnected. I bought a few others that are non-valved in order to allow the shirt to air dry inside the lines once cleaned.

Fritz, are these the ones that fit the "official" shirt? I want to order a couple (or whatever the non-valved ones are) so that I can drain my shirt/lines between events.

[Fritz]

Fritz, are these the ones that fit the "official" shirt? I want to order a couple (or whatever the non-valved ones are) so that I can drain my shirt/lines between events.

Yeah. They fit my shirt which is the fast technologies version. I believe both fast tech and cool shirt use the same connectors.

I'm going to place an order tomorrow morning for some of the 3/8" connectors and we can combine orders if you want to split the shipping. Goal is to get them here by Thursday so I can take them to Porschefest.

[Fritz]

Excuse the ignorance as I have not seen one of these, do you fill the cooler with Ice/ little water before going out? If so would it make sense to put in a baffle around the bilge pump and route the return with a flex poly hose to flow over the ice on the opposite side so hot returns to flow over the ice before it can get picked up by the pump ?

Tim, I was thinking the same thing initially. I could add a tube off the end of the return and route the water to wherever, but then I remembered that high G turns and braking are gonna mix it up pretty well. :D

I will be adding some protection for the pump cause I plan on using blocks of ice or frozen water bottles and they have been known to break the pumps. :(

[VaSteve]

Fritz, I'm in. One of each male and female. Will PM you.

[Fritz]

Fritz, I'm in. One of each male and female. Will PM you.

If you want to drain the shirt after an event, you'll need two of these.

http://www.quickcouplings.net/osc/images/PLC17004.jpg
http://quickcouplings.net/osc/product_info.php?products_id=175&osCsid=851967ba26facda09d0bf45c5000cc67

If you only plug in one, it won't drain because there is no air vent. So attach two and blow into one of them. Or use your compressor. :)

I'll add them to the order.

[Trak Ratt]

How about making an attachment for your air hose with the other end of the quick release??

If you want to drain the shirt after an event, you'll need two of these.

http://www.quickcouplings.net/osc/images/PLC17004.jpg
http://quickcouplings.net/osc/product_info.php?products_id=175&osCsid=851967ba26facda09d0bf45c5000cc67

If you only plug in one, it won't drain because there is no air vent. So attach two and blow into one of them. Or use your compressor. :)

I'll add them to the order.

[Vicegrip]

A toothpick snapped in 1/2 works too. Gently prop both valves open hold one hose well above the other and the shirt will syphon drain. One end stuck in the hose of a shop vac for a few min will pull out much of any remaining water. Running a shot of alcohol through the cooler pump lines and shirt to clean the lines and kill the bugs works too.

[Fairfax 944]

After borrowing VA Steve's cooler for race school at VIR 2 weeks ago, I decided it was time to build my own.

Note that there are two non-compatible types of hose connectors, the FAST brand, and the Cool Shirt brand. Make sure your shirt matches the connectors.

As background, there are very inexpensive medical coolers similar to a cool shirt cooler for sale on eBay. Search "cold therapy" on eBay. I bought one sight unseen. It has the same dry break hose connectors as the FAST system, and the Rule 360 gph pump. It would have been perfect, but the liquid capacity was only 5 quarts, so that wont' work. I did take the pump out.

The best cooler I could find is the Engel 19 quart cooler. It is available from www.austinkayak.com for $41.99, shipping included. This is one of the few coolers that is sealable.

As to the pump, I had the Rule 360 gallons per hour. This is what is used in the genuine Cool Shirt system.

The design required figuring out how to get a waterproof connection through the side of the cooler. I went with what is called "Faucet Extenders". These are used to connect the water supply to your kitchen faucet through a thick counter top.

The toughest part of the job was drilling through the cooler. The cooler is weak Styrofoam with thin brittle plastic on each side. When I was drilling through it using a wood auger, the outer plastic cracked. So, I used 1" washers which repaired things nicely. I found that it is best to drill using a spade drill bit, as shown in the picture.

As to the electrical connection, Pep Boys sells a male/female 12 volt plug called an alternator connector. I bought this in order to wire in VA Steve's cooler to my car, so I already had it on hand.

So the parts I used were:

Engel 19 quart cooler - $41.99
Rule 360 gph pump (I had this)
FAST system hose ($100, I had this as I bought it at VIR to get Steve's system to work)
Set of Faucet Extenders - $8.68
Set of 4 #10 X 1/2" stainless screws to mount pump $1.18
(2) 1/2" to 1/4" hex bushing $5.60
(2) 1/4" barb to 1/4" pipe $4.58
1 PVC right angle 1/2", threaded on one side $0.36
2" piece of 1/2" PVC pipe $0.94
6" of clear 3/4" tubing
2 1" washers $2

Total Price Without Hose and Pump $65.33
The hose previously cost me $100, but you could go much cheaper if homemade. It was nice having the FAST system hose, as I didn't have to mail order the connectors or mess around with that.

[VaSteve]

Its like deja vu all over again!

[Fritz]

Looks good. There is no right or wrong way, unless of course it doesn't work and sets your car on fire. ;)

[Fairfax 944]

TOTALLY INFERIOR TO THIS MASTERPIECE!! (http://dorkiphus.net/porsche/showthread.php?t=26029)

:D:D

Just kidding. Looks good. There is no right or wrong way, unless of course it doesn't work and sets your car on fire. ;)

Uh, I should have read your thread yesterday. Didn't see it, but yours looks a bit more sturdy then mine. It took a lot more time than it should have, didnt it?

If there is a way for the moderators to move my post into your thread, might make it a little easier for people to find it all in one thread.

[APKhaos]

Meh. Its a bilge pump in a box. They'll both work just like a bought one. :)

[Fritz]

Uh, I should have read your thread yesterday. Didn't see it, but yours looks a bit more sturdy then mine. It took a lot more time than it should have, didnt it?


I always expect things to take longer then expected, but this was more so. It was probably trying to determine the best way to get through the sides. I first looked at bulkhead fittings for fish tanks and agricultural use, but they are too big and expensive. Then when I got the pump at West Marine I looked through their thru-hull fittings and they wouldn't work. Then I thought of a PVC solution, but couldn't find the right pieces.
But then Andy reminded me what he had done with his, and simple is best. Plus I looked at Tony's cooler at Tech and realized it's not rocket science. Keep most of the water from falling onto bad things, and you're okay. :)

Have you figured out the mount yet?

[Trak Ratt]

The one I bought used came with a simple slab of metal with some inexpensive straps.

Cool Shirt offers this:

http://www.hrpworld.com/client_images/ecommerce/client_39/products/3995_hdr_2_l.jpg


Saw a nice Pro system for $6.9K! (shirt sould separate) http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=6957

[Elfer]

TOTALLY INFERIOR TO THIS MASTERPIECE!! (http://dorkiphus.net/porsche/showthread.php?t=26029)

:D:D

Just kidding. Looks good. There is no right or wrong way, unless of course it doesn't work and sets your car on fire. ;)

Just modify to add a hose running to the engine - quick eject on the shirt, and the fires out.. ;)

[HoodPin]

Nicely done Fritz!

FWIW, I would recommend drilling all the holes in the cooler as high as possible, to minimize issues with potential water leakage.

[HoodPin]

The other thing you can do to help keep the water cool is to line the inside of the cooler with Danica Patrick pictures......

[Fairfax 944]

After looking at the cooler last night, I see that the silicon is not adhering too well to the cooler. It's like there is an oil film on the surfaces of the cooler. I'm going to remove the silicon, sand the relevant areas of the cooler to get better adhesion, and re-silicon.

[HoodPin]

After looking at the cooler last night, I see that the silicon is not adhering too well to the cooler. It's like there is an oil film on the surfaces of the cooler. I'm going to remove the silicon, sand the relevant areas of the cooler to get better adhesion, and re-silicon.

You primarily want a solid seal on the inside of the cooler, where the water is. I would recommend using silicon in the gap between the inner & outer walls of the cooler, and then fab up some gasket material (cork, rubber, etc) to put between the flange and inner cooler surface.

[smdubovsky]

Instead of just sanding (which just puts the oil down in scratches) consider cleaning w/ something that even attacks the base plastic a little. Toluene, xylene, etc. Then maybe sand a little.

[Vicegrip]

You primarily want a solid seal on the inside of the cooler, where the water is. I would recommend using silicon in the gap between the inner & outer walls of the cooler, and then fab up some gasket material (cork, rubber, etc) to put between the flange and inner cooler surface.
There are groups of plastics that silicone does not stick to well. Window grades even less so. Better to have a seal that is based on compression than a sealent.

[Dr K]

Please add a pair for me - also for draining shirt. Thanks! Trade them for the 1-1/2" aluminum angle iron you need (and I've got)? Free delivery, too.

[Dr K]

Saw a nice Pro system for $6.9K! (shirt sould separate) http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=6957

Yes, but after 2000 uses, you'll break even from the savings on bags of ice...

Someone posted a piezoelectric idea on Dorkiphus 2-3 years ago. Nifty idea, but the one linked above draws "a maximum of 16 amps"!

[realroadrage]

If there is a way for the moderators to move my post into your thread, might make it a little easier for people to find it all in one thread.

No problem; threads merged.

[LPM911]

No problem; threads merged.

good work, but now...

Nicely done Fritz!

FWIW, I would recommend drilling all the holes in the cooler as high as possible, to minimize issues with potential water leakage.

FWIW, I would recommend drilling all the holes in the cooler as high as possible, to minimize issues with potential water leakage.

you can say that again!!! :lol:

[realroadrage]

good work, but now...





you can say that again!!! :lol:

I was waiting for someone to point that out (or for Tony to delete his own dupe). :)

[}{arlequin]

i'm sure nasa has some kind of liquid cooled suit if you really want to go all-pro

[VaSteve]

At the surplus shops, they no longer need it. :(

[HoodPin]

What are you talking about?? :?

[Fritz]

Please add a pair for me - also for draining shirt. Thanks! Trade them for the 1-1/2" aluminum angle iron you need (and I've got)? Free delivery, too.

Doh.. Placed the order last night. :(

[Lupin..the..3rd]

What are you talking about?? :?
I think that was a no more space shuttle reference.

[Lupin..the..3rd]

Fritz, I'm in. One of each male and female. Will PM you.
Whatever floats your boat. I'll take two females please. At the same time.

[Trak Ratt]

Whatever floats your boat. I'll take two females please. At the same time.
Destined not to end well boy-o! Unless;

http://t1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRsOfzSX8z2VKjIxEUCoSKLdrEpeObA1 BaPq4JFy8pIhHCeN9arz31M35Pc (http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.freakingnews.com/Pictures/2/Conjoined-Twins.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.freakingnews.com/Conjoined-Twins-Pictures--1306.asp&usg=__Gs5RdLt4n6Sq1DuqS-L5kpmRePY=&h=759&w=750&sz=78&hl=en&start=21&zoom=1&tbnid=n0rFqUHz46L5sM:&tbnh=142&tbnw=140&ei=hSpATo6rHMWzsALO7qAj&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dconjoined%2Btwins%26start%3D20%26um%3 D1%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN%26tbm%3Disch&um=1&itbs=1)

Would make for some interesting... :oops:

[}{arlequin]

I think that was a no more space shuttle reference.

yup. wall-e doesn't need a spacesuit to operate

[Der ABT]

little late to this but two things i may suggest,
the return line, i would put a little extra tubing to limit the amount of air bubbles, probably not a problem with a 360gph pump but just a thought

second as for pumps, im a saltwater fish tank guy.....look on craigslist or at a local fish store. Maxijet, 600, 900 or 1200 work perfect for this application and are small then he pumps here (run between 10-20 bucks) and is easy to make fit the tubing.

I actually made a cool child seat for my daughter, if anyone has a child seat im sure they know how hot the baby gets sitting in it.....i had some pumps and tubing left over. three minutes and it was working great. now i just need to get the patent and make millions so i can buy a gt3 or gt2 rs and buy better laptimes :twisted:

[Fritz]

second as for pumps, im a saltwater fish tank guy.....look on craigslist or at a local fish store. Maxijet, 600, 900 or 1200 work perfect for this application and are small then he pumps here (run between 10-20 bucks) and is easy to make fit the tubing.


I have two dozen fish tank pumps sitting here. They are all 120volt AC.. Where did you find the 12volt versions??

[magnetic1]

little late to this but two things i may suggest,
the return line, i would put a little extra tubing to limit the amount of air bubbles, probably not a problem with a 360gph pump but just a thought

second as for pumps, im a saltwater fish tank guy.....look on craigslist or at a local fish store. Maxijet, 600, 900 or 1200 work perfect for this application and are small then he pumps here (run between 10-20 bucks) and is easy to make fit the tubing.

I actually made a cool child seat for my daughter, if anyone has a child seat im sure they know how hot the baby gets sitting in it.....i had some pumps and tubing left over. three minutes and it was working great. now i just need to get the patent and make millions so i can buy a gt3 or gt2 rs and buy better laptimes :twisted:

Me too. Another suggestion is aquarium bulkheads for the inlet/outlets. They will seal and you wont need to worry about the silicone mess.

[Trak Ratt]

Me too. Another suggestion is aquarium bulkheads for the inlet/outlets. They will seal and you wont need to worry about the silicone mess.
Pics boy-o, or at least a link?

[realroadrage]

Pics boy-o, or at least a link?

Google is your friend (http://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=aquarium+bulkheads&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8#q=aquarium+bulkheads&hl=en&client=safari&rls=en&prmd=ivns&source=univ&tbm=shop&tbo=u&sa=X&ei=yhdBTuXyE8Lo0QHi2uymCQ&ved=0CFIQrQQ&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&fp=de14fbd16c9644ba&biw=1331&bih=668). :)

[Trak Ratt]

Google is your friend (http://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=aquarium+bulkheads&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8#q=aquarium+bulkheads&hl=en&client=safari&rls=en&prmd=ivns&source=univ&tbm=shop&tbo=u&sa=X&ei=yhdBTuXyE8Lo0QHi2uymCQ&ved=0CFIQrQQ&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&fp=de14fbd16c9644ba&biw=1331&bih=668). :)

Not the same
Why guess
Rules is rules

[magnetic1]

Not the same
Why guess
Rules is rules


Sorry, it was late at night :)

Yea, that is the general idea. But they come in different flavors. Some w/ barbed hose ends too.

Something like this, etc. They come either as slip fit or threaded so you can put appropriate barb/fitting on.

http://www.aquabuys.com/p/pa_bulkhead_kit_1.html
http://www.aquabuys.com/p/pa_bulkhead_kit_75.html

McMaster also has:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#barbed-tube-bulkheads/=djkhy0
http://www.mcmaster.com/#pipe-bulkhead-tank-fittings/=djkj19

OOO LOOK! McMaster has "through wall" cool shirt fittings too! Screw the whole bulkhead thing and just get this. Even has flow control so when it is disconnected, water doesnt come shooting out. (the non flow control ones are cheaper). However, unlike the aquarium bulkheads, I dont see a rubber gasket seal.

http://www.mcmaster.com/param/images/qdtubecouplings/socket_btw.gif

http://www.mcmaster.com/#quick-disconnect-tube-couplings/=djkjlw
Non-flow control: http://www.mcmaster.com/#quick-disconnect-tube-couplings/=djkl7g

[Fritz]

So I figured a base was in order to keep the cooler from skulling me in the middle of turn one. Here's what I came up with.

I bought some aluminum flat stock from Home Depot. It's inexpensive and came in all sorts of lenghts and widths. I got 4 feet of the 1 1/2 by 1/8 stock and 3 feet of the 2 by 1/8 stock. It was easy enough to cut with a hacksaw.

Here it is laid across the base of the cooler.
http://dorkiphus.net/porsche/attachment.php?attachmentid=27595

To bend it, I used a propane torch, a C clamp, and some scraps of plywood and a pair of vice grips. It made a decent impromptu press break. I had to heat the aluminum for about 30 seconds to make it reasonable to bend.
http://dorkiphus.net/porsche/attachment.php?attachmentid=27596

Then I drilled a few holes and bound it all together.
http://dorkiphus.net/porsche/attachment.php?attachmentid=27597

And here is a close up of the base. As you can see, I'm taking advantage of the strap provided with the cooler to lash it too the base securely. The spacer will give enough rise to get over the uneven floorboards. The flat washers should keep it from pulling through the thin sheet metal.
http://dorkiphus.net/porsche/attachment.php?attachmentid=27598

I think it should pass tech without concern and can be removed quickly with 4 bolts if it interferes with the passenger. What do you think?

[smdubovsky]

looks good!

[Trak Ratt]

So I figured a base was in order to keep the cooler from skulling me in the middle of turn one. Here's what I came up with.

I think it should pass tech without concern and can be removed quickly with 4 bolts if it interferes with the passenger. What do you think?
Looks real nice! And I agree, shouldn't be problem with tech either. I'd round the ends on the uprights some and swap the positions of the brackets. That way the strap would have less angle and something between it and the floor.

[Vicegrip]

If it were my setup I might be inclined to make the uprights about 1 inch tall. less metal, easer to install and remove the cooler and same holding power in a wreck. Flat stock the size of the cooler base with off the shelf Stanly brand trunk corner brackets would work too.

I also find it easer to service the cooler by removing it to dump water or recharge. I have the hold down strap go under the hold down plate and over the cooler. As you have the strap routed throught the cooler loops it you might have to restring the strpa each time rather than loosen it and slide it over to one side.

[pjalexandre]

Looks good. As long as you bolt it down tech is going to be ok.

BTW: your cooler is the exact same one you get from OG with a new FAST cool suit.

I made a simpler mount using 4 pieces of alum angle stock to make a base that the cooler sits inside and then run a strap from under the alum base holding down the cooler through the side tabs built into the cooler. Cooler doesn't budge and I can just pop the cam strap to take out the cooler between races.

[Fritz]

I'd round the ends on the uprights some and swap the positions of the brackets. That way the strap would have less angle and something between it and the floor.

I'm with you on the rounding. That's in the plans, but probably not for this weekend.

If it were my setup I might be inclined to make the uprights about 1 inch tall. less metal, easer to install and remove the cooler and same holding power in a wreck. Flat stock the size of the cooler base with off the shelf Stanly brand trunk corner brackets would work too.

Also agree. They don't need to be as tall as they are. The length allowed it to be bent without a break press, but I think I'll likely cut them down when I get the chance. I like the idea with the trunk corner brackets.

[Dr K]

But you're holding it upside down! ;)

[Fritz]

But you're holding it upside down! ;)

Upside down? I don't think so.. I'm mounting it to the roof just to be different..

[Trak Ratt]

...
I made a simpler mount using 4 pieces of alum angle stock to make a base that the cooler sits inside and then run a strap from under the alum base holding down the cooler through the side tabs built into the cooler. Cooler doesn't budge and I can just pop the cam strap to take out the cooler between races. worth-less w/o pics :roll:

Upside down? I don't think so.. I'm mounting it to the roof just to be different..inside or outside :? might make a diff for tech

[Charlie Stylianos]

Saw this on ebay. 41 minutes left.

Cheap beginning to a cold suit solution.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Breg-Polar-Care-300-Cold-Therapy-NICE-/290745859890?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43b1cdbf32

[magnetic1]

FYI, those things are going to be harder and harder to find. Some jackasses sued those companies saying they got frostbite.... used to be tons on Ebay. Now hard to find :(

[El Duderino]

OOO LOOK! McMaster has "through wall" cool shirt fittings too! Screw the whole bulkhead thing and just get this. Even has flow control so when it is disconnected, water doesnt come shooting out. (the non flow control ones are cheaper). However, unlike the aquarium bulkheads, I dont see a rubber gasket seal.

http://www.mcmaster.com/param/images/qdtubecouplings/socket_btw.gif

http://www.mcmaster.com/#quick-disconnect-tube-couplings/=djkjlw
Non-flow control: http://www.mcmaster.com/#quick-disconnect-tube-couplings/=djkl7g

Sorry to resurrect such an old thread, but the summer is F.A.S.T. approaching and I'm looking to DIY my own version of this.

The post quoted above seems to have gone under the radar. I would love to see if anyone has implemented the above bulkhead solution. Seems it would be much cleaner and easier.

Again, any feedback on working bulk head solutions (aquarium or otherwise) would be much appreciated. Seems they might have a bit of trouble making it through the depth of the cooler vs. think aquarium glass.

[turkis_tii]

You might want to switch to silicone or latex tubing, especially on the shirt part. PVC will harden when cold. Good luck with project!

[Dr K]

You might want to switch to silicone or latex tubing, especially on the shirt part. PVC will harden when cold. Good luck with project!

If it's cold enough for the PVC to harden, you don't need the shirt...

[Vicegrip]

his tip is a good one as the tubing contains 32 deg water when in use. Regular clear from the fish or hardware store will be stiff in use.

[ausgeflippt951]

Sorry to resurrect such an old thread, but the summer is F.A.S.T. approaching and I'm looking to DIY my own version of this.

The post quoted above seems to have gone under the radar. I would love to see if anyone has implemented the above bulkhead solution. Seems it would be much cleaner and easier.

Again, any feedback on working bulk head solutions (aquarium or otherwise) would be much appreciated. Seems they might have a bit of trouble making it through the depth of the cooler vs. think aquarium glass.


"I'm the Dude. That's what you call me. That, or His Dudeness, or Duder, or El Duderino, if you're not into the whole brevity thing..."


Welcome, dude.

[El Duderino]

Sorry, it was late at night :)

Yea, that is the general idea. But they come in different flavors. Some w/ barbed hose ends too.

Something like this, etc. They come either as slip fit or threaded so you can put appropriate barb/fitting on.

http://www.aquabuys.com/p/pa_bulkhead_kit_1.html
http://www.aquabuys.com/p/pa_bulkhead_kit_75.html

McMaster also has:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#barbed-tube-bulkheads/=djkhy0
http://www.mcmaster.com/#pipe-bulkhead-tank-fittings/=djkj19

OOO LOOK! McMaster has "through wall" cool shirt fittings too! Screw the whole bulkhead thing and just get this. Even has flow control so when it is disconnected, water doesnt come shooting out. (the non flow control ones are cheaper). However, unlike the aquarium bulkheads, I dont see a rubber gasket seal.

http://www.mcmaster.com/param/images/qdtubecouplings/socket_btw.gif

http://www.mcmaster.com/#quick-disconnect-tube-couplings/=djkjlw
Non-flow control: http://www.mcmaster.com/#quick-disconnect-tube-couplings/=djkl7g

"I'm the Dude. That's what you call me. That, or His Dudeness, or Duder, or El Duderino, if you're not into the whole brevity thing..."


Welcome, dude.

Thank you Collin. Now abide and give me some responses to my question!! :-)

Anyone have any good suggestion for bulkhead fittings?