CV boots torn.

[roundel]

While I was swapping pads last night I notices that both outer CV boots were spooging. They are torn. Is this time for new half shafts, or is re-greasing and replacing the boots an option? Any horror involved in this repair?

[Jase007]

No horror ... easy peasy like a BMW. I'd replace boots, clean and repack and call it a day. You may find the cv-joint toast after you get in there ... then it is time for "plan B". Some here swap half-shafts side to side to change direction of force on joint .. haven't done it but sounds like a good i-deer. :)

Make sure you have the socket to break the axle nut loose before you start. Impact wrench helps too.

Good luck.

[Jazzbass]

You can rebuild and re-grease. It is a crappy, nasty, dirty, job. See here:

http://dorkiphus.net/porsche/showthread.php?t=5790

I went this route 3 yrs ago when one of my boots started cracking (it never split). When I disassembled the CVs I found that they weren't worn too much, and has no pitting. So I cleaned and flipped the joints so that going forward the other side of the CV would wear. No problems since. If I were to do it again, I'd probably just replace the whole axle. Especially on a 1986 and up car, when the outer CV can't be disassembled (it's part of the half shaft) and the axles are already 22 yrs old. But that's me after having done this job almost 10 times so far on my and other cars. I've come to hate CV joints.

It becomes a question of what your time is worth. Get two new axles and replacement is a 2 hour and $600 job. Rebuild and regrease and plan on being there at least one whole day, maybe two, and figure $100 for boots/grease/etc.

Whatever you do, order new CV bolts.

[86911TLCAB]

It is actually relatively easy...If unsure how long the boots may have been ripped, you should pull them and have someone take a look who can ensure no scoring or issues...and rebuild them. its about 30 bucks to rebuild and 250-400 to buy new...tito

[OldTee]

No. You can buy a repair kit. See PET. However you have to remove the axle to do the job. Lots of torque to remove and replace the nut. Loosen them before you lift the car.
ARF

[Trak Ratt]

What Jazz and others said. Where did you get your car tech inspected for the last DE?

[roundel]

What Jazz and others said. Where did you get your car tech inspected for the last DE?

It was inspected at my local shop and I inspected while swapping in the track pads Thursday. They were not noticeably cracked or leaking then so I am certain that the issue happened this weekend. I put new SS brake lines in so we were in there for a while.

Thanks for the info everyone. I may just have to replace both shafts. With my wife and kiddies, I NEVER will get a day or two to repack. I can see it now. I would be up to my elbows in grease and one of the boys would say, "I have to go poopy!" :bang:

[pookie]

Invite Tito over to do it. He likes this job.

[roundel]

Rereading Jazz's post, it looks like I have no option to rebuild since mine is an 86. I need to replace and will get all new bolts.

What size nut is on the axle? I just replaced the bearings on the rear of my M3 a couple of months ago, so it will be interesting to see how similar this shaft removal is.

[86911TLCAB]

Its just fun to get dirty once in a while...makes my day job seem easy...tito

[HoodPin]

Whatever you do, when re-installing make sure the bolts are torqued to proper specs. If 12-point/triple/square (like 944's) what may "feel" tight, may not be tight enough. If they loosen, the grease makes a mess under there. I replaced a half shaft, and had the bolts come loose twice following tightening by "feel". Using a proper torque wrench I was amazed by the amount of pressure required, and they haven't come loose since (but I can't recall the torque setting :oops:).

[Redroc]

On a semi-related note - I have a CV boot that is starting to sling some grease. Since the CV's are probably original on my car, I was going to go the clean, expensive route and just replace the half-shaft. Is there any issue with just replacing one side? I wouldn't think so, but just checking.

[HoodPin]

On a semi-related note - I have a CV boot that is starting to sling some grease. Since the CV's are probably original on my car, I was going to go the clean, expensive route and just replace the half-shaft. Is there any issue with just replacing one side? I wouldn't think so, but just checking.

Replacing one side should be fine. I've found that the boot closest to the muffler tends to go most often. 944's use 6 12-point/triplesquare bolts at each end. Must be torqued to spec. I can loan you the 12-point socket if don't have one. They're available online, but tuff to find locally. I believe you need the 8MM (you can confirm size with a 6-point allen, but risk stripping if used to remove/install).

[Trak Ratt]

IIRC ’44 variants use a VW axel. These tend to be cheaper to replace than buying CV joints, boots etc separately. Even without factoring in your personal labor. Might want to shop around before jumping in.

[}{arlequin]

for the record, i've been through this job twice already, second time w/ all the tools in the world at my disposal, including a super duper needle-nose for the mother of all spring clips, as well as a 2ton press for separating and assembling the cage onto the axles...


...and i'll never do this again. much easier to simply buy new axles and replace them. they're what... $200-$250 each? well worth it in light of wasting 4 hours of your life. once replaced, you can take your sweet time (when you have some free) and rebuild the old one, to put away on the shelf and keep as a spare.

[Redroc]

Replacing one side should be fine. I've found that the boot closest to the muffler tends to go most often. 944's use 6 12-point/triplesquare bolts at each end. Must be torqued to spec. I can loan you the 12-point socket if don't have one. They're available online, but tuff to find locally. I believe you need the 8MM (you can confirm size with a 6-point allen, but risk stripping if used to remove/install).

Actually the leaking boot is inboard passenger side, so go figure?!?! Thanks for the tool offer Tony but I have a whole set of the 12-pointers. When I replace the half-shaft I may look into converting the CV bolts to standard allen bolts. They seem less prone to strip out when all covered with grime and goo.

[OldTee]

Another hint. Clean with brake clean and put a dab of nail polish on the bolt. If the nail polish is cracked the bolt is coming loose.
ARF

[Trak Ratt]

Another hint. Clean with brake clean and put a dab of nail polish on the bolt. If the nail polish is cracked the bolt is coming loose.
ARF
Good tip! What's your fav color?

[KFJ]

Good tip! What's your fav color?

OldTee definitely strikes me as a Fuch Me Red fan

[Trak Ratt]

OldTee definitely strikes me as a Fuch Me Red fanLOL X2, will have to check when he comes down to pickup his EZ-up

[thomschoon]

believe you need the 8MM (you can confirm size with a 6-point allen, but risk stripping if used to remove/install).


NAPA usually stocks them as a set of drivers which you can put in a socket, I think it was about $8 last year when I bought some. they are on a bubble pack card on the LISLE rack.

[roundel]

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/imgdsply.cgi?pn=91133202414-M60

this x 2 is all that is needed, right?

[88carrera]

for the record, i've been through this job twice already, second time w/ all the tools in the world at my disposal, including a super duper needle-nose for the mother of all spring clips, as well as a 2ton press for separating and assembling the cage onto the axles...


...and i'll never do this again. much easier to simply buy new axles and replace them. they're what... $200-$250 each? well worth it in light of wasting 4 hours of your life. once replaced, you can take your sweet time (when you have some free) and rebuild the old one, to put away on the shelf and keep as a spare.

I second this. This has got to be the worse job ever. I normally love repairing things, but in this case I will gladly pay to NEVER do repair cv's.

[realroadrage]

I second this. This has got to be the worst job ever. I normally love repairing things, but in this case I will gladly pay to NEVER do repair cv's.

I can imagine the only thing worse is doing this job in a garage at VIR late at night with a bunch of drunk Dorkis heckling you.

[Jazzbass]

I can imagine the only thing worse is doing this job in a garage at VIR late at night with a bunch of drunk Dorkis heckling you.
That was your brakes. We were sober when we were heckling you about the CV.

[realroadrage]

That was your brakes. We were sober when we were heckling you about the CV.

You have a better memory than me. :XX

[aelred]

Just had both rear sets replaced last week as part of my $2500 "oil change". :XX

The right rear boots were shot, the left were pretty worn (replaced a while ago), so I had all of them done. 188.36 for parts, 6hrs labor was 564.

[Redroc]

You have a better memory than me. :XX

I liked how Michael and Jazz did most of the work but there were 4 or 5 of us with CV grease on us. That stuff migrates.

[Trak Ratt]

I liked how Michael and Jazz did most of the work but there were 4 or 5 of us with CV grease on us. That stuff migrates.Yeah, have to watch out where you sitz :p

[realroadrage]

I liked how Michael and Jazz did most of the work but there were 4 or 5 of us with CV grease on us. That stuff migrates.

Fixed that for you.

[OldTee]

Good tip! What's your fav color?

Buy em at the dollar store. Color today is blush!.
ARF

[type954]

When I replace the half-shaft I may look into converting the CV bolts to standard allen bolts. They seem less prone to strip out when all covered with grime and goo.


hmmmm, i thought the triple square was less prone to stripping than the allen..... with the triple square (actually, with the allen also) and as mentioned, use some solvent (previous poster said brake cleaner) and spray into the head of the bolt to clean the grease out, then tap the triple square wrench (or allen) into the head before you put torque to loosen.

[HoodPin]

hmmmm, i thought the triple square was less prone to stripping than the allen..... .
That's my belief too. And the first time I properly cranked them down to the requisite 30 ft/lbs, I was amazed how much effort was required to generate the proper amount of torque. I believe that grabbing the triple-square/allen bolt from the center creates less leverage than a traditional bolt grabbed around the outside. If these bolts are not properly torqued, they WILL come loose.

[Redroc]

Hmmm so my idea that the 12-pts. strip out easier may be wrong.

However, another reason I was thinking of converting to std. allen bolts is accessibility to the CV bolt. I have the Lisle 12-pt. bit that someone posted about earlier. It's a lot bigger than it needs to be - about 3" long and flares out in the back to accept a fairly large socket (15mm I think). Once you have the whole assembly together (bit, socket, extension, & socket wrench) it's rather unwieldy. In addition, the CV joint has to be rotated in the perfect position to be able to access the CV bolts. You have to remove one bolt and then rotate the CV joint to gain access to the next one and so on. And the CV boot still tries to push the bit assembly out of the way. I've seen long allen bits (about 6" long) that don't flare out at all before the socket adapter. I would think these allen bits would be a lot easier to use since you would be able to get to the CV bolt without interference from the CV boot. This would make torquing and untorquing easier with less chance of the bit getting cockeyed and messing up the bolt.

Just me pondering.....