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OldTee
03-24-2007, 01:32 PM
I am starting to remove the heads on Michelles Carrera. I put my HF allen and began to twist. I stopped. It was taking quite a bit of pressure and did not move so before I screw the pooch I decided to ask some silly questions.

First, let me say, I am off to buy a 10MM socket allen of good quality for whatever mega bucks it takes for one. Now I am wondering if people use impact wrenches on these things. If not, I am in for some exercise and muscle taxing not planned for today.

I know I'll get some class A advice, so I'll say thanks now. :)

ARF

Rick V
03-24-2007, 03:07 PM
John, I personally don't use an impact gun on my allen bits, you can if you feel the need, I just don't.
If you put a small amount of valve grinding compound (fine grade) on the end of the bit, then tap (lightly) into the bolt hole, it should bite nicely and not round off. The compound just helps to "grab" better and not round out the hole.
Don't make me have to come up there and break something loose for you again. :) ( I will if you need me to) I won't be too far away from you next weekend. I'm running some erands for dad.

OldTee
03-24-2007, 04:26 PM
Job done. Better Allen, bigger breaker bar, sore muscles.
ARF

Dr K
03-24-2007, 04:46 PM
DR says NOT to use quick movements on frozen bolts, but rather use a long bar and slow pressure. I've seen it work. The physics make sense because you don't want to break that old bolt in half...

Peter

markwemple
03-24-2007, 06:15 PM
Don't know. I've found that many stikes on the bolt, kinda like an inpact gun but with less pressure, works well, especially on rusted stuff. You're less likely to break something. A long bar can twist something off very easily and gives you less "feel". FWIW

Trak Ratt
03-24-2007, 08:58 PM
:drums:Don't know. I've found that many stikes on the bolt, kinda like an inpact gun but with less pressure, works well, especially on rusted stuff. You're less likely to break something. A long bar can twist something off very easily and gives you less "feel". FWIW ta-dum :D

markwemple
03-25-2007, 07:56 PM
So is that a note of approval, DR?

OldTee
03-25-2007, 11:43 PM
Now what?
ARF

cmartin
03-25-2007, 11:54 PM
Nice work

I might suggest supporting the rods, they can nick the case. I covered the small ends with pieces of inner tube, I've also seen them tied to the head studs.

Dr K
03-26-2007, 12:42 AM
Now what?
ARFNice "WYIT," John :D

Trak Ratt
03-26-2007, 07:24 AM
So is that a note of approval, DR?
No.
Most everyone can come up with different ways to accomplish almost everything. What ever strums your guitar :|

Vicegrip
03-26-2007, 07:55 AM
For removing stuck nuts i have found impact to work better and be less likely to snap off bolts. Start soft and let the gun induce some shock and vibration to help loosten the rusty, crustys holding the fastner in place. Heat on the nut helps too if you can get to it.

Rick V is spot on, hard impact and socket heads dont get along. 6 side socket heads suffer from smaller grip surfaces to the size of the bold than standard hex heads. they also want to splay open where as a hex head bolt is trapped inside the socket. (in which case the socket is wanting to splay open) If the hex tool is stripped or dull at the end you can cut the end off with an abrasive wheel to get a fresh sharp end. Keep cooling the metal as you go as grinding might heat the metal enough to detemper. I have a set of standard L shaped inexpensive hex drivers that I cut the short legs off of to make them into hex bar stock. I can use them in a same size socket when I need a long reach drive tool. I also use them to shock the bolt head when they are stuck by sticking one of the hex bars in the fastner and smacking the hex bar with a hammer. This works most of the time as you can put a good shock inducing hit on a solid bar with no leg or socket on it.
I had a barrel nut deep in a machine once that was stuck tight to the stud. Another wrench that worked for me tried all kinds of things to get it free. . Thankfully he did not beaver the socket up trying to get the barrel out as if it stripped it was the end of the machine due to cost of repair over value of the machine. I ended up heating the end of some of some hex bar stock almost white hot, sticking it in the barrel and letting the nut soak up the heat. Then flipped it over so the working end was still heat treated and much to my happy suprise cranked the sucker right out with little torque. :)

What is the reason for the rebuild? What you got planned for the motor?

BlackTalon
03-26-2007, 10:08 AM
What is the reason for the rebuild? What you got planned for the motor?He's retired, and needs something to keep busy with during the day :lol:

Good work getting it all apart, John. Lots of people wish they had dads who would rebuild their motors for them. Michele's prertty lucky!

OldTee
03-26-2007, 11:09 AM
q 1: see anything wrong?
q 2: not asked but is this a neat PU truck?

BlackTalon
03-26-2007, 11:13 AM
q 2: not asked but is this a neat PU truck?Yes. Made me wonder why you would even consider driving the 911 to Hershey... :lol: