Heat exchangers (Cheap repairs)

[William Miller]

Prepairing for winter:
I need to extend the life (breifly) on the stock heat exchangers while I make some final decisions for next year.

I took a close look at the heating system Saturday to figure out why the engine fan blows, but the volume of air comming out of the vents is dismal.
The heat in my cab blew hot and strong. (Could melt your shoes!)

Here's what I found:
One of the tubes below the engine tin (A/C side) had some holes in it. Bigger than a quarter. I didn't have time to pull the A/C compressor so I just clamped on a short section of tube that was slit to go over the other one.

One of the orange tubes had a few holes in it so I replaced that one. (I learned that the flapper cable bracket gizmo had changed somewhere between 81 and the set of flapper boxes that were on my cab. The old type are a PIA.)

Heat exchangers:
Several of the tubes that allow acess to the barrel nuts were rusted out so that hot air is escaping both above and below the heat exchanger.

Also there is the typical gaps rusted out where the heat exchanger tin meets the header pipe before crossing under or collecting.

The exhaust pipes themselves are in good condition and Ken had already installed a test pipe and aftermarket muffler. The muffler needs an end fixed.


Yesterday I went to the parts store and bought some muffler repair paste.
I also bought some fender washers and 6 1/4 x4" bolts to run up thru the holes and close up both the top and bottom ends.

It's the best I could come up with on my own.
Any thoughts? So who has tackled these in the past?

With what I fixed on Saturday there is a little improvement.
I'm just trying to get a few months out of this.
I also don't want to pull the exchanges at this point because the nuts are pretty ugly and I don't want to start a bigger project that that my turn out to be.
Since these HE are pretty much toast, when the time comes. I might just end up cutting them off at the tubes to remove them so I can be really carefull with the nuts.

BTW, I have the HE's from my brothers 2.7 will the tubes big enough for a 3.0? I know the SSI's I had on the Cab were the same design, but were the tubes bigger?

[Trak Ratt]

1. Since these HE are pretty much toast, when the time comes. I might just end up cutting them off at the tubes to remove them so I can be really carefull with the nuts.

2. I have the HE's from my brothers 2.7 will the tubes big enough for a 3.0? I know the SSI's I had on the Cab were the same design, but were the tubes bigger? 1. Best idea, 2. will fit through 3.2 (but smallish for 3.2)

[William Miller]

1. Best idea, 2. will fit through 3.2 (but smallish for 3.2)
Thanks
I haven't looked at those closely, but may be worth keeping out of the landfill for now!

Any ideas on temp repairs?

[smdubovsky]

Lots 'o JBWeld;) Do you have the electric aux fan in the engine bay? W/o it (the old style many backdate to) the heat is pretty lousy - no airflow unless you're really reving it.

SMD
________
Yamaha Fj1200 Specifications (http://www.yamaha-tech.com/wiki/Yamaha_FJ1200)

[William Miller]

Lots 'o JBWeld;) Do you have the electric aux fan in the engine bay? W/o it (the old style many backdate to) the heat is pretty lousy - no airflow unless you're really reving it.

SMD

Still have the fan and right now it probably works almost as good as backdated heat. I'll have to look closely at the early HE's, but I did use the fan with my Cab which had the SSI's. That would almost burn my toes with my shoes on!

Will JB hold up to the temp of the header?
That's why I bought the exhaust repair goop hoping it would.
I bet it will put out some nice fumes mixed with the oil burning smell i often get!

[turbo23dog]

Bill,

I'm in the same boat and looking for a solution that will delay the ineveatable. I get only minimal heat and on the few "chilly" mornings we've had in the last 15 days. With both levers up during the 10 mile jaunt to work, I don't find it getting too hot that I'd want to shut them off.

The regular JB weld won't stand much heat. I tried that on a cracked exhaust manifold on my Merkur 2.3L 4 banger and the stuff ignited after about 5 minutes of idle. Luckey for me nothing else caught fire. :shock: :bang:

I think there is a JB weld made for high temp applications but I think I"ll wait to see you if try that and how that works!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :lol:

I was also thinking of a product I've seen on parts chain shelves that is called exhaust bandage. This might be used to wrap up the area where the exchanger meet the pipes but wouldn't do much for the rest of the tinwork areas.

[smdubovsky]

JB weld wont take the header heat, but it will easilly take the heat exchancer heat (as long as its not in direct contact w/ the header). I've used it to fix holes in mufflers on several occasions - it outlasted my jeep...

FWIW, the exhaust bandage stuff is worthless. Will last about a week then falls off (esp if it gets wet). Lasts long enough to get through emissions. Thats why I resorted to jbweld for a long term fix;) I've only used the regular temp stuff - I didnt know a high temp version existed.

SMD
________
The cigar boss (http://thecigarboss.com/)

[William Miller]

Bill,

The regular JB weld won't stand much heat......

I was also thinking of a product I've seen on parts chain shelves that is called exhaust bandage. This might be used to wrap up the area where the exchanger meet the pipes but wouldn't do much for the rest of the tinwork areas.

Good to know about the JB weld.
Saw the wrap / bangage on the shelf.
The open areas I have on the ends are mostly about 1/8 - 1/4" at the most.
I haven't opened up the stuff I got in the tube to see how thick it is, but If it's probably a paste I think I can pack it in the cracks and get a better seal than that bandage.
Hope it works.