[N0tt0N]

Question: How loose/tight should an anti-roll bar (ARB) be?

I spent the last two days tearing down the front end on my 2002 Boxster S, cleaning up what I'm keeping, and putting together/configuring what I'm adding. I'll post more later but I am putting it all back together now and have bolter and torqued the corner plates and diagonals and the ARB seems pretty tight. That is, I have to exert enough pressure to think, huh, I thought they were supposed to rotate fairly freely. The bar is larger than the stock one I took at and I'm concerned the bracket that wraps around the ARB bushing has a shorter loop and is pinching down on the bar too much. The bracket is sandwiched between the corner bracket and the side member of the subframe. There is enough room above the current bracket for a longer bracket so I'm thinking I need to fab that unless someone knows of a part that works for a GT3 ARB on a 986 Boxster. Here's a picture.

[APKhaos]

Question: How loose/tight should an anti-roll bar (ARB) be?

The ARB should rotate freely, without any binding. The idea is that when both wheels deflect up or down equally the ARB goes along for the ride. Its only when one wheel is deflected more than the other that the ARB is twisted to apply anti-roll force.

If you have fitted a larger than stock ARB then you will need a matching larger than stock brackets and bushes to mount it.

[N0tt0N]

Thank you. I figured as much but thought I would double check with the geniuses before proceeding.

It has the correct bushings on it. After doing a little research with dry eyes this morning I'm even more confused as the bracket shown in the GT3 PET appears to be substantially different but it is the same part number as the 2002 Boxster S - mine is just a brass/galvanized looking strap-type bracket. I strangely didn't write down the part number or take a picture of what I installed so I'll have to take it off and see. Luckily getting the bushing doesn't require that I drop the corner plate and the diagonals like installing the bar did - just back off the two corner plate bolts around the bar and slide them out.

Thanks for taking the time on this beautiful holiday! And, thanks to any Veterans out there and those that have gone before.

[N0tt0N]

After removing the corner plate I could slide the bushings and clamps outwards to remove them.

It may be a question of inadequate lubrication

The bracket is the correct part.


The bushing fits correctly as I would expect some compression to avoid noise.


And while the bushings do not have part numbers you can see that the new one (foreground in bracket) is larger than the old one (background through new one).


I notice that the old one is like glass inside while the new one looks like the inside of a tire. You can see and feel the cords embedded in the rubber. I put a dab of Royal Purple grease on there originally trying to avoid over-lubing it but it is dry as a bone now. So, I'm going to put more grease and try again. Maybe there is a break in period - I don't see how the bushing would avoid binding with those threads until it made them conform to the bar?

[APKhaos]

Could be the clamping force that is causing the stiction, or misalignment that is causing the bar to bind. It should be easily movable by hand before you connect the links.

[N0tt0N]

That's what I was originally thinking and hoping not. I took off the UHMW-PE tape I had added to the bar as friction reducer to remove increase the tolerance. I rubbed in more lube into the barrels of the bushing and a little but on the outside in case the bushing was binding in the bracket. Tightened the bolts down and while it does not drop down so the bars are hanging straight down it turns a lot easier.

After I had put in the trailing arm and torqued down the right side corner plate and was ready to move to the left side I picked up the left trailing arm and saw the curve in it and thought, 'Foch! I didn't pay attention to the orientation on the right side!". So I went and looked and found this.



Huh, I can't tell which way I put it in. In fact, I can't see a curve at all. The PET is no use given it doesn't show the curve either. Maybe it is just the angle of the picture. I'll hold up the left one for comparison. WTF!



Looks like a trip to the dealership. Luckily I used lots of lube...

[slbates]

I use Krytox GPL on my sway bar bushing. Stays put and doesn't mess with the rubber.

[N0tt0N]

Thanks, do you know which GPL it is? I see a 105 (PFPE) and a 205.

The part on the tension/diagonal control arm shows 996.341.143.03 while the PET shows 996.341.043.06. I know sometimes the last two digits are revisions (and sometimes not) but I actually can't find the installed part number anywhere except eBay. Typo on the parts cast? . Calling dealer to see if they have the PET part and decide if I need two. Also considering some alternatives to the OEM part. Always sumpin'

[N0tt0N]

Ordered parts overnight. Moving on since there is plenty else to do!

[slbates]

Originally Posted by N0tt0N

Thanks, do you know which GPL it is? I see a 105 (PFPE) and a 205.

The part on the tension/diagonal control arm shows 996.341.143.03 while the PET shows 996.341.043.06. I know sometimes the last two digits are revisions (and sometimes not) but I actually can't find the installed part number anywhere except eBay. Typo on the parts cast? . Calling dealer to see if they have the PET part and decide if I need two. Also considering some alternatives to the OEM part. Always sumpin'

I use 206 for rubber and o-rings.