[BlackTalon]

Installing new wiring/ fixtures requires a permit. But that does not mean people don't add those items without drawing permits. I suspect the majority of DIY basement finishing projects are done without permits.

[DonNewton]

Ahem, as one who deals with this on a daily basis (and just talked to the Fairfax Co. Building Dept on Wednesday), you are "legally" required to have both a structural permit and an electrical permit for this work. Now, is someone going to come into your house and provide you with a stop work? Probably not. But, should one of your neighbors call about the work you're doing, the building inspector WILL pay you a visit, and you will receive a "Stop-Work" and can be fined. A lot of my work involves redesigning and rebuilding homes that have burnt to the ground because of unpermitted work. So, choose wisely.

By the way, even though I live and work in San Diego, I just did plans for a master bath renovation for friends of mine in Burke. Delivered the plans today (thanks USPS). The IBC (International Building Code, the basis for the VA/Fairfax Co building/municipal code) is your friend. If you're in suburban MD, check with the applicable building codes. Additionally, those who told you about fire blocking? They're your friends. . .

[slocumda]

Metal studs are good choice because they are light, no saw dust and very easy to cut and install. If you need additional blocking for attaching things to the walls you can attach 1/2" cdx plywood between studs no problem. You should be able to find them at supply houses frequented by commercial contractors. Hope this helps, Doug

Originally Posted by Rick K

Hey guys,

I'm working on finishing my basement and want to finish up the framing this weekend so I can move to getting the drywall attached. I already have the treated 2x4s that form the base attached to the cement floor - and now need to finish the rest framing.

I was planning to use wood to finish up. But has anyone used aluminum? Are there pros/cons to either?

TIA

[Trak Ratt]

Originally Posted by Richard Curtis

i could easily be wrong about this, but I thought if you're finishing your basement, and installing new wiring/fixtures, that you'd need an electrical permit. Again, I could easily be wrong.

X2 in VA anyway.

[Richard Curtis]

Originally Posted by DonNewton

Ahem, as one who deals with this on a daily basis (and just talked to the Fairfax Co. Building Dept on Wednesday), you are "legally" required to have both a structural permit and an electrical permit for this work. Now, is someone going to come into your house and provide you with a stop work? Probably not. But, should one of your neighbors call about the work you're doing, the building inspector WILL pay you a visit, and you will receive a "Stop-Work" and can be fined. A lot of my work involves redesigning and rebuilding homes that have burnt to the ground because of unpermitted work. So, choose wisely.

When we had our basement finished many years ago, the contractor did NOT get permits. When we discovered this some time later, we went through the permitting process. Not an easy thing (the guy had to come from Baltimore). Had to cut holes in the wall in several places to show the fire blocking. And the inspection was very, very thorough (and expensive). Luckily, there were no problems other than finding the money to pay the bill. I don't recall that our taxes increased either, at least noticeably.

We were told by a contractor friend that without the permit, we would be facing problems when we sold the house.

[Rick K]

Thanks all. Will do...

[ScottinSSMD]

Nows the time to future proof the floor above or any chases to your attic before you close it in. Same goes for if you have any possible plans to update your kitchen, etc. Otherwise, you will be tearing out ceilings for runs. Even though you are building for yourself, just think of any work the next owner would possibly want.

[Dr K]

Originally Posted by ScottinSSMD

Nows the time to future proof the floor above or any chases to your attic before you close it in. Same goes for if you have any possible plans to update your kitchen, etc. Otherwise, you will be tearing out ceilings for runs. Even though you are building for yourself, just think of any work the next owner would possibly want.

Conduit

[ludwig]

Good quick guideline:

http://www.fairfaxcounty.gov/dpwes/p...ts/details.pdf

I would recommend permits, especially to check electrical work if you're hiring it out.

If you have wood down already, I would use wood studs. I like the weyerhauser "framer select" lumber which is nice, clear, pretty straight, not too wany, and has the crown already marked on it. Buy mine from Smoot in Alexandria. Not too much more expensive than the twisty crap at H-D. You can get it delivered.

You need fireblocking to block smoke/flames from traveling from one area to another. The top plate(s) on a wood stud wall will generally accomplish this in typical interior wall construction. If your stud walls are greater than 10 feet in height, then you would need additional blocking. Check your local codes. The fire blocking around the perimeter and in the floor/ceiling space is where it gets tricky. Take a look at some of the diagrams in the .pdf above.

[Rick K]

Ok, have the rough framing done.

Prior to attaching the rest of the wood studs, I installed the moisture barrier in pieces that I overlapped by a few inches. The barrier comes w/ a "ready-to-go" adhesive strip on the (6mil) plastic to handle any overlapping sections, but that strip didn't seem like enough to create an air-tight block...so I used gorilla tape for the seams as well. Will this do the trick, or should I look to another adhesive? Hopefully its overkill for what's needed.

On another note, Home Depot workers continue to astonish me (although they shouldn't at this point). I asked 5 different people in the building materials, paint and flooring section where the moisture barrier was and got blank stares.

Thanks