front camber recomendations

[Mackpipes]

I have lowered my car to a point were my camber is now comming back out to zero. I am having some rubbing problems on the inner lips of the front fenders (which have already been trimmed). I would like to dial in more camber but my factory adjustment is maxed out. Can anybody recommend an after market manufacturer of camber plates without (and here's the catch) going to a mono-ball setup. I'm afraid if I go to a mono-ball the ride might be too much for the street.

P.S.- I don't want to raise it. :roll:

Thanks,
Ted Thomas

[BW911]

Ted, how low is it, measuring at the wheels?

- Bill

[Mackpipes]

Bill,
I'll measure tonight and get back to you. Do I measure from the fender lip?

Ted

[BW911]

Yeah, I think so. I measured mine the other day and they all seemed to be different. :roll:

- Bill

[APKhaos]

Ted,
What is your ride height??

I'm at 24.5/24 and can get 1.8 degrees of camber on the fronts.
It is considered acceptable to remove some material from around the upper shock tower holes to get the required setting. Careful work with a die grinder, the POR15 and paint. I did a little of this clearancing on one side to get an equal 1.8 each side.

Do a search on Pelican - there are some good posts with pics.

You should be able to get this setp correctly without resorting to after-market camber plates.

[APKhaos]

Ted,
See my post on the other instance of this thread - under Tech Discussions.

[Mackpipes]

Sorry for not getting back sooner. My rid height is:
Front drivers- 24 1/4"
Front pass.- 24 3/4"
Rear drivers- 23 1/2"
Rear pass.- 23/ 5/8"

Give or take an 8th. Trying to find even pavement around here is like trying to find a quiet politician on the Hill! :roll:

[Trak Ratt]

Most “experts agree that the front should be ½” higher than the back. 24.5” in front is probally as low as you should go. If you have an SC or post ‘75 911 did you remove the large washer at the top of the front struts? If not you are probally pre-loading the front suspension to the point of binding. Try raising the rear pasenger side 1/8” to 1/4”, it should lower the drivers front about an equal amount. Anyway, you should be able to get 1.0 to 1.5 negative w/out modifying the struts. There is likely something else wrong if you cant but... if you really want, try Performance Products. I believe they sell non mono ball adjusters.

[Jazzbass]

I always thought the back should be 1/2" higher than the front, giving the car a slight downward rake from back to front. It seems everyone is going lower in the back. Any comments on which is correct? I think BA recommends 24/24.5 for ride height.

[Charlie Stylianos]

Chris,

24.5/25 = back/front.

The front measurement is supposed the be .5" higher then the back. I don't know if the front physically sits higher and the rake levels out at speed due to downforce, or the fender to ground clearances are different front and rear.

[Jim Richards]

The front wheel arch is different between front and back. The height to the top of the wheel arch should end up being less in the back than in the front. Using the guidelines previous mentioned, you'll have the right rake.

[Doug E]

Having just lived through this let me give you my thoughts:

As part of my front end project, I set the front height to be .5" higher then the rear (based on everything I read on Pelican) using the fender lip method. I then took the car into Dulles for an alignment and asked them to just check things over to make sure everything from my project looked good. When the car left my house the measurement were 26" in the rear and 26.5" in the front.

Wouldn't you know the only thing they called out was that my front ride height was too high. They reset it using the proper method (gap between torsion bar and center of wheel) and then did the alignment.

When I picked the car up that night I talked to the mechanic that did the work and he said my front was .5" too high. I explained what I did and he said each car is slightly different due to the hand craftmenship and the only correct way is the t-bar to center method. As a rule of thumb he said the fender lip method works in most cases but in mine it didn't. Once everything was trued up he said the optimal rake is 1 degree and that's what he set mine to.

When I got home I re-measured all four corners and using the fender lip method the rears still showed 26" but now the fronts showed 26" as well.

Just goes to show the rule of thumb doesn't always work.

[Marc A]

FWIW: Throw a carpenter's level on the door sill lip (not the sill as there are welds under the sill) and see if the bubble is out of level toward the rear. At least you will know if you are heading in the right direction using the rule of thumb method.